Gamini
Punchihewa outlines the uniqueness of Tempita Viharaya and its rare
line drawings
Architectural marvel of the Maduwanwela Dissawa era
Front view of Tempita Viharaya (above), the intriguing demon
figure on the mural (left) and wooden staircase leading to
the viharaya (right). Note the line drawings of lions on either
side. Pix by Dr. Chandima Amarasena
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The
spirit of the doughty Dissawe extended to his sprawling Nindagams.
He is remembered even today for his proud independence and how he
never bowed down to the white rulers (the Government Agents) of
his domain. This great man was called Jamis William Maduwanwela
Dissawe.
Nestling
in the lap of the awe-inspiring mountain frontier of the Kolonne
valley is his medieval castle-like walauwa that originally had 141
spacious living rooms and 12 ‘meda midulas’ (inner courtyards).
Maduwanwela Dissawe was fondly called 'Kalu Kumaraya' (Black Prince)
by the people because of a bitter altercation he had with a German
prince, where he made the latter eat humble pie.
Maduwanwela
Dissawe died in 1930 and his grand walauwa now lies in shambles.
His only crippled daughter Kumarihami also passed away after his
death.
The
walauwa was bequeathed to the Mollamure family. In 1979, as the
edifice was crumbling it was brought under the umbrella of the Department
of Archaeology as a protected monument. A curator was appointed
and tourists both local and foreign flocked there to marvel at its
architecture, even though all those commodious rooms and meda midulas
were being reduced to the barest minimum. The Archaeological Department
officials have accomplished a Herculean task with dedication to
restore this decrepit mansion.
The
history of Maduwanwela walauwa dates back to the Kandyan period
of King Vimala-Dharmasuriya II (1687-1707 A.D). Maduwanwela Dissawe's
earliest ancestor who lived at this walauwa was Maduwanwela Mohottala.
Maduwanwela walauwa is accessible via Embilipitiya along the Panamure-
Kolonne-Rakwana highway about 15 miles away.
It
can be reached from Colombo along the Ratnapura - Pelmadulla - Embilipitiya
- Nonagama highway. Visitors can turn off at Madampe junction deviating
to Rakwana - Kolonne (even to Deniyaya), where the distance to Maduwanwela
walauwa is about 35 miles.
Coming
down the dynasty of Maduwanwelas from the Kandyan period of reigning
kings like Vimala Dharmasuriya II who ruled in the 17th century,
there is a Tempita Viharaya within easy reach of the Maduwanwela
walauwa off the main road to Kolonne, two km away.
Tempita
Vihara is aptly named after the Mudaliyars (Mudali) Dissawes who
reigned supreme in the wilderness of Maduwanwela, as Maduwanwela
Mudalinalage Aramaya. It had been a tradition of the past Dissawes
to develop and maintain it well. Lands were gifted to the temple,
while the tank overlooking the Tempita Vihara was built by Maduwanwela
Dissawe.
Of
Kandyan architecture, it has an image house (Pilimage) standing
on dwarf stone pillars on a wooden platform with walls of wattle
and daub and a thatched roof with flat tiles (Pethaliulu). 'Tem'
here means some sort of a pillar, while 'pita' means on its outer
surface, which houses the image house which has statues of the Buddha
and other deities. The murals are adorned with lotus petals in full
bloom, tendrils with foliage and depict several Jataka stories.
The ceilings are also embellished with elaborate paintings of lotus
flowers and other foliage.
These
Iri reka or Iri chitra - line drawings are rare and unique, and
date back to the 16th Century to the time of King Vimala Dharmasuriya's
reign in the Kandyan Kingdom.
Among
the Iri reka drawn on the front walls of the Tempita Vihara, the
most bizarre figures are those supposed to be of a demon (yakka/yakshaya),
an incarnation of Hoonium Yakka. It has a hideous face with its
mouth wide open, holding a pig in its mouth! In one figure, it has
10 hands, five on each side, holding elephants by their trunks,
human beings by their hair and other symbolic armaments. In one
figure, the yakka is mounted on a pig (or so it appears), while
in another it is mounted on an elephant. The lion figures have tails
tugged up and are standing on their hind legs, while holding in
their front paws a creeper with foliage. Cobras are coiled around
the necks and hands in clusters.
The
paste for the painting is taken from the soot (deli) of the cloth
wicks of coconut oil lamps and the residual burnt up oil. These
were drawn with the aid of a pointed piece of charcoal with an attached
handle. There is a short flight of wooden steps to reach the entrance
of the Tempita Vihara.
The priests’ Avasa (residency) is also a relic of the past
dating back to the 16th Century. It had been the abode of Buddhist
priests then too and is well maintained to this day. It is filled
with elegant furniture made of ebony and satin wood (Burutha) and
antiques like globular glass hanging oil lamps. A well preserved
beautifully carved armchair with oval arms has at the back a metal
plate with lettering on it, to say it was manufactured by Don Carolis
Furniture Dealers in 1860 A.D.
All
these items of furniture and other artefacts had been the property
of Maduwanwela walauwa, later gifted by Maduwanwela Dissawe to this
Mudilindarmaya during his life time.
For
some time in the past the Tempita Vihara was in a dilapidated state.
Fortunately in the recent past the Department of Archaeology has
taken constructive and meaningful steps to restore the faded line
drawings and the Tempita Vihara. Its Viharadipathi is Ven. Kelle
Devananda Himi Thera, who holds the office of Hony. Secretary of
the Sasana Arakshaka Sabawa.
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