It’s easy to miss the Sugar Bistro and Wine Bar at Crescat Boulevard. It might be positioned right near the entrance, but there is a lack of extravagant paraphernalia usually associated with such establishments. Be not fooled by the unassuming exterior, however; walk in and you’ll find yourself in a refreshingly relaxed but undeniably chic [...]

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The Sundaytimes Sri Lanka

Take a break from the bustle of the city

By Duvindi Illankoon
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It’s easy to miss the Sugar Bistro and Wine Bar at Crescat Boulevard. It might be positioned right near the entrance, but there is a lack of extravagant paraphernalia usually associated with such establishments. Be not fooled by the unassuming exterior, however; walk in and you’ll find yourself in a refreshingly relaxed but undeniably chic atmosphere.

Sugar Bristo: Good food, wine and a view

Jointly owned by Dinesh Wijesinghe and Gehan Fernando of Lemon and Silk fame, this restaurant replaces the old Delifrance that used to cater to shoppers in need of a quick bite. Sugar, however, works to a different beat. On a weekday afternoon, there is a throng of office-workers, perusing the wine menu with an eagle eye and reminding each other that it’s yet afternoon and multiple glasses are therefore not in order, despite the extensive wine list and fifteen of those varieties available per glass.

The bistro and wine bar is open from 8 a.m. to 12 a.m. on weekdays and 1 a.m. on weekends. On the breakfast menu, you will find classics such as French toast served with banana and honey or kitul treacle or even muesli or waffles. The All-Day Breakfast, with toast, farm fresh eggs done anyway you want them, selection of sausages and bacon, grilled tomato, baked beans, fruit juice, fresh fruit, tea or coffee comes highly recommended for those looking for sustenance to get them through till lunch. The All-Day Breakfast, true to its name, is available till 5 p.m. At Rs. 900, it’s the most expensive breakfast item but seems worth it considering all that’s offered.

For later on in the day the options, while perhaps not endless, are certainly great. Lunch or dinner could begin with a selection of starters and salads, including the Bistro Caesar Salad and some exotic options including the pepper crusted seared tuna and Asian salad dressed in wasabi mayo. Soups include a rather delicious sounding roasted pumpkin soup with garlic chips and prawn bisque with pesto chips. If you want something casual, there’s a wide selection of sandwiches and burgers including the classic Sugar Burger (of great fame, following its debut in front of Silk catering exclusively for the starved in the wee hours of the morning).

Mains include grilled pork chops, fish and chips, a decently priced Australian sirloin steak, salmon fillet and other mainstays in most restaurants. Be a typical Sri Lankan and order the Javanese mixed fried rice, an exotic version of the classic Nasi Goreng. Or you could be a little adventurous and order the chicken quesadillas or an asparagus crepe glazed with hollandaise.

For dessert, if you’re not overfull, there’s espresso and dark chocolate mousse or a pot of ‘gooey chocolaty goodness infused with a hint of orange’ that sounds suspiciously like a chocolate hot pot. Or go for the homemade warm apple pie with ice cream or fresh cream. Too heavy? Try the fruit platter or jasmine and honey infused with green tea panacotta.

A wine cellar of sorts is positioned to the side of the restaurant, the chilly confines of which houses an excellent selection of wine. Also on offer is the standard fare of cocktails and mojitos with their own twists. Order a Clover Leaf (be warned, it’s a little strong) or an Ambrella Fizz towards the evening and match it with a selection of delicious tapas on offer.

Sugar is for those who want good food and drinks served in a relaxed setting. The waiters are attentive-when called over, yet seem to lack the knack most waiting staff have of catching your eye when you need them. The decor is lovely to look at, and the food and wine selection are on the right side of value for money. And the constant bustle, of course, is pretty nice if you’re a city person. Even if you’re not, it’s hard to not like Sugar.




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