Nothing to do but relish nature in the raw
“This is pretty challenging,” I said as the van bounced from pothole to pothole in the rain up the government road through the valley of Vellai-oya Estate to reach Cabanas St Heliers.
“There’s more challenges to come,’ said Peter, the manager of the Cabanas who was guiding us there.
I peered through the rain at the looming hillsides where tea bushes soared to the forest’s edge and surging water gushed from muddy gullies. I realised what he meant as the road degenerated to a rock strewn ford. We crossed the raging stream gingerly and then followed the trail past a couple of livestock farms before we arrived at the Cabanas.
Peter explained that the road was scheduled for rebuilding as it served over 7,000 residents, the village of Agara-oya and a quarry. Buses and three-wheelers use it, he assured me. We had earlier turned onto the road by the sign advertising the property at the Vellai-oya Junction after the 68km mark on the Avissawella to Hatton A7 highway.
I was keen to stay at Cabanas St Heliers as I wanted to experience a real hillside retreat without any boutique hotel fripperies and with hearty hill-country cooking. Although there are only five cabanas, seemingly cobbled together with local timber and thatched roofs, as many as 40 guests can stay there.
This is because the Cabanas are designed for families who want fun together, groups of friends bonding during a few nights away from home, and for young people taking part in motivational programmes in a secluded, natural location without distractions.
Each cabana has several double beds, or bunks, made from local timber. But the mattresses are comfortable, the pillows soft, blankets thick and fluffy, and towels, soap and toilet paper are provided. Each cabana has an attached bathroom but for a real wake-up call, there is a small, rock pool in a stream below a spuming waterfall.
Although it is a genuine, back-to-nature resort with cabanas built of wooden walls, tree trunk columns, timber floors and roofs, the cabanas have on-site hydro-powered electricity, flushable toilets, and are comfortable and cosy, much better than camping out in tents, although the experience is similar. The cabanas are nestled close together surrounded by orange, pink and blue wildflowers and golden hibiscus bushes. The pathways have guiding rails of branches, and miniature bridges of sticks.
There is a central restaurant cabana with a long, wooden table where guests eat together. During my stay I devoured delicious, authentic hill country cuisine packed with flavour and spice, prepared by a young man from the area who obviously has a flair for pure Sri Lankan cooking.
Guests stays on Full Board basis (at Rs. 3,000 per person) which includes bed, bed tea, hearty breakfast, lunch and dinner with locally grown fruit and vegetables, and choice of meat. Since the nearest shops are 7km away down the rocky trail to the main highway, guests need to buy any extras they require before checking in.
Each cabin is different. I stayed in one with a narrow gallery running around it to a corner balcony where there is a view of the surrounding hillsides carpeted with tea and forest. Small deer and rabbits are often to be seen scuttling through the undergrowth and the birds, including eagles, are spectacular to watch (binoculars available).
Cabanas St Heliers draws its name from the once famous tea estate of 427 acres at 4,000 feet (1,219m) above sea level. The cabanas occupy only a few acres in area with the flourishing tea estates of Strathdon and Carolina as neighbours.
I loved the cool evening breeze and the camaraderie of friends as we swapped yarns in the evening (the staff even offered to light a campfire). In the morning, as the sun shone brightly, I plunged into the swirling waters of the stream and emerged invigorated for a huge breakfast of red rice, dosai, seenisambol and beef curry.
For the young, and young at heart, Cabanas St Heliers is a haven of solitude (but mobiles work) with absolutely nothing to do but relish nature in the raw. It’s not for the squeamish but, for getting to know yourself as well as your companions, it is an unusual and, yes, challenging holiday retreat.
I’m already planning to return for a longer stay of doing nothing but hiking, reading, savouring the fresh hill country air, and eating and sleeping well.
Cabanas St Heliers is at Agaraoya, Hatton; tel: 0719 343004 (Mr Peter); www.cabanasaintheliers.com. Reservations should be made in advance and transport can be arranged from Hatton railway station.