Come Poson, when pilgrims make an unforgettable journey
View(s):Vandanave yamu pevila tisarana seele – vandinta, vandinta ramya atamasthane.
So begins a popular song – an invitation to join the pilgrimage to worship the ‘atamasthana’ – the eight sacred places in Anuradhapura. The song is particularly relevant at this time of the year when Anuradhapura takes centre stage with Poson pilgrims thronging the sacred city.
For most Buddhists, it’s an annual pilgrimage. ‘Vandananades’ from distant villages insist on going to Anuradhapura for the Poson Poya because it’s the holy day when Arahat Mahinda brought Buddhism to Sri Lanka.
The Atamasthana tour invariably begins from the Sri Maha Bodhi – the Sacred Bo Tree
Equally important is a visit to Mihintale – to climb the wide flight of over 1,500 steps under the shade of ‘araliya’ trees, worship the Ambastala dagoba, and proceed to reach the top of ‘aradhana gala’ – the rock where Arahat Mahinda and his companions were spotted.
The arrival of Arahat Mahinda was a sequel to the decision made at the third Buddhist Council during the reign of Emperor Asoka (273-236 BC) under the chairmanship of Ven. Moggaliputta Tissa Maha Thera that several missions be sent to spread the Dhamma in and outside India.Historical records reveal that Sri Lanka’s King Devanampiya Tissa(250-210 BC) was a contemporary and friend of Emperor Asoka. Soon after becoming king, Devanam Piyatissa had sent a team of envoys led by his nephew Maha Arittha with costly presents to Asoka. In return, he had sent everything needed for a royal consecration and an appeal to the king to embrace the Buddhist faith. Arahat Mahinda’s visit followed this request.
Dr Senerat Paranavitana describes Arahat Mahinda’s arrival thus: “The first meeting of Saint Mahinda with King Tissa, according to the unanimous tradition of the Sinhalese, took place at Mihintale, the sacred hill eight miles to the east of Anuradhapura. The accounts of the conversion of the king and people of Ceylon to Buddhism written by monks after the religion had secured for itself dominance over the minds of the people are overlaid with edifying legends in which the miraculous element is conspicuous. Mahinda and his companions transport themselves by air from Vedisagiri to Mihintale, gods are at hand to make smooth the path of the religious teachers, and impress the multitude with the efficacy of their doctrines. Earthquakes which do no harm to anyone vouch for the veracity of the prophecies ascribed to the Saint. At sermons preached on important occasions, the Devas in the congregation far outnumber the humans. Elephants, without anybody’s bidding, indicate to the king the exact spots on which sacred shrines are to be sited.
“In spite of this legendary overlay, the main event, i.e. that Buddhism was accepted by the people and the ruler of Ceylon, is attested by the presence at Mihintale and Anuradhapura of epigraphical and other monuments of a Buddhist character attributable to that period. In the Brahmi inscriptions at Mihintale occur the name of a king Devanampiya Tissa, though one cannot be quite certain that he was the contemporary of Asoka. But Uttiya, the younger brother of Tissa can be recognised without any reasonable doubt. An inscription at Mihintale some two hundred years later in date than that of DevanampiyaTissa, refers to the images of Mahinda and three of his fellow missionaries.(‘History of Ceylon’ – University of Ceylon publication)
Dr. Paranavitana adds that whatever the manner in which Mahinda and his companions travelled to Sri Lanka, the first meeting between them and the king took place according to tradition on the full moon day of Poson (May-June) when the king had gone hunting to the Missaka hill (Mihintale). Having been satisfied by some preliminary questioning that the king was intelligent enough to grasp the doctrine, the Thera delivered a discourse to him and his followers.
On the king’s invitation, Arahat Mahinda came to Anuradhapura where he took abode in the royal pavilion of Mahamegha park (Mahamevuna Uyana) to the south of the city. Thousands – both men and women – became Buddhists after listening to his sermons. Many entered the Order as well. The king granted the royal park to the Sangha for them to reside. Thus was established the Mahavihara which became a celebrated centre of Buddhism.
The king also built a ‘cetiya’ for the lay people’s devotional activities. In it was enshrined the collar-bone relic of the Buddha. The Thuparama-cetiya – the first stupa to be built in Anuradhapura- is venerated by the pilgrims as one of the Atamasthana sacred places.
The Atamasthana tour invariably begins from the Sri Maha Bodhi – the Sacred Bo Tree – the oldest historically authenticated tree in the world. It is the right branch of the very tree in Buddha Gaya beneath which Buddha gained Enlightenment.
Close by is Ruwanveliseya 338 feet tall, referred to as the Maha Stupa built by King Dutugemunu (161 – 137 BC). A large quantity of bodily relics of the Budda and other sacred relics and gold offerings are believed to be enshrined here.
In between is the Brazen Palace – referred to as ‘Lova Maha Paaya’ – which had been a huge palace built by King Dutugemunu and donated to the Maha Sangha. The nine-storeyed building with a height of 150 feet had been supported by forty rows of pillars, each row with 40 pillars adding up to 1600. Only the remnants of these remain today. There had been a thousand rooms in each floor. The roof was covered with copper-bronze plates.
The Abhayagiri Vihara – 370 feet tall is the second tallest dagoba in the world. Dating back to the reign of King Walagamba (89-77 BC) it was erected on a site hallowed by the Buddha. Buddha relics and the Tripitaka inscribed in gold leaves are believed to have been enshrined here.
Enshrined within the Jetavanarama built by King Mahasena (276-303 CE) is the waistband used by the Buddha.
Mirisawetiya, the first stupa constructed by King Dutugemunu has the relic-studded sceptre of the king deposited here.
Lankaramaya situated south of Abhayagiriya dates back to the first century BC.
Apart from the Atamasthana, there are many other places to visit including the world-renowned Samadhi statue, Isurumuni Vihara, ‘kuttampokuna’ (Twin Ponds), and the ‘gal palama’ (stone bridge).
For the pilgrims it’s a real ‘vatavandanava’ – a journey to remember till this time next year.
-D.C. Ranatunga