Unforgettable climb
Awe-inspiring: The sunrise
It still feels like a dream, but looking back I wonder at the marvel of climbing a 7,359 feet mountain a few weeks ago. It was a test of faith and fitness alike.
We had talked about it for months, and during our last visit to Sri Lanka we made it happen in a group of 20 that included both children and adults.
We started around 8.30 from Nawala and a stop at Saman Devalaya in Ratnapura took about half an hour at midday, worshipping in packed chambers offering flowers to Lord Buddha and the resident deity God Sumana Saman.
We headed to Palabathgala via the scenic Malwala, Ilukwattha, Gilimale and Siripagama passing lush green paddy fields, panoramic tea plantations and magnificent waterfalls among forest covers with thick canopies of trees and rocky terrain.
After attending a pooja to bless the pilgrims out of whom nine were first-timers known as Kirikodu (children) Dhandukodu (adults), we set off around 4 in the afternoon.
We gradually ascended light-heartedly following our three youthful navigators: Malinda, Radeepa and Thilina- all from Ratnapura. They had first-hand knowledge and experience but didn’t talk about the climb which does not surprise me now.
The fine day descended into dusk, and fluorescent lights appeared now and then. At times there was an eerie silence soon to be followed by frogs and insects orchestrating, sending a shiver down my spine at dark lonely spots.
The youthful group with six children was the most energetic and their chatter and laughter rang through the otherwise silent night for they climbed pretty fast.
As we neared the last police post near a large waterfall, one in our group got cramps and breathing difficulties which halted our ascent. We waited under a lamp post ever vigilant for the bloodthirsty leeches that I loathe.
Bats flew from one side of the forest cover to the other. A call from my invaluable cousin Vilashini imparted local wisdom of folklore giving us advice on how to deal with such emergencies.
At every second tea shack we had a hot drink to refresh ourselves; otherwise we drank water sparingly. We sweated greatly during the climb, and so toilets were used minimally for most were in a bad way.
Being a Saturday just after the season started there was a considerable crowd, and we didn’t feel isolated which is a must for this journey.
Thilina, the most experienced, entertained us with folk stories; some hair-raising such as the story of the woman gone missing at Lihinihela where some youth shout ‘LihiniAkke’ which is resonated in the adjoining mountains, the story of the ambalama where one sleeper could go missing or the elephants crossing at Gajamanwalavwa could actually be frightening but mystically exciting at the time of the ascent.
We had our dinner, savouring the aromatic rice at a boutique. Then the group of children became our responsibility due to their parents being tired or helping the ones in need.
Five nieces ranging between the ages of 8 and 14, five young boys, my husband and I climbed with determination. The cold and exhaustion and the need to sleep slowed the little ones.
Staying in resting huts and nourishing ourselves with biscuits, chocolates, chewies and coffee we kept each one moving with encouraging words and occasional laughter.
The night sky was a glorious sight never to be forgotten for a long while. It was a magnificent gem-studded playground of the gods and goddesses, and lights ascended in a spire higher and higher every time I looked up.
Finally, the last few steps were the steepest and the hardest to climb.We were jubilant that we made it and followed Thilina who showed us to the rituals of worshipping, lighting lamps and joss-sticks, sounding the gong etc. The place was an absolute bee hive of activity and all of us had stiff legs.
I kept on looking over shoulders at the girls in our charge with three securely in front as crowds pushed and pulled while we sleepily waited for the sun rise, popularly known as the Ira Sevaya.
First there was an inky darkness, then the slight flickering of a ray or two frolicking slyly and finally the grandeur of the orange, spreading around the golden globe as it peeped out. We did it, and I clicked my camera over heads and shoulders.
Having tucked into bread and seeni sambol we started our descent which was too scenic to miss while basking in the morning sun to ease off the light chill. The descent should not be delayed beyond 8 am.
It was a breathtaking view with mountains reflecting shadows. The trail was through the evergreen rain forest with heavily stemmed moss-covered giant trees with fascinating natural sounds.
I am filled with happiness every time I think of the journey, for beating the common saying that, ‘one who has not climbed Sri Pada even once is a fool.’
However, a few words of advice: Getting your fitness assessed would be a good idea if you’re not used to climbing heights. It’s a must to have someone who knows the area and the journey well in your group. Stick together for protection and company if possible.
Dress appropriately with a solid pair of runners or hiking shoes and a jersey. Carry a strong torch and a mobile phone to contact, but expect no signals at times. Keep medicine like balms and salt and other first-aid needs close at hand.
Have enough nourishment and be hydrated adequately. Be prepared to stop whenever necessary as the climbing up or down both need stamina.
Most importantly this is a pilgrimage to a sacred place so be wise in thought, word and deed.