Sunday Times 2
A journey for renewal and peace: My solo visit to Sri Lanka
View(s):By Lukshan Abeysuriya
I have recovered successfully from treatment for my bone marrow cancer, medicos called myeloma. This was a harsh and difficult experience. Since May 2015, I constantly visited the Furness General Hospital’s excellent Oncology clinic where I was under the expert care of Dr. Anthony Machette and his Nursing team, also I owe a great debt of gratitude to my dear wife and family for their love and care, this short story of my trip to Sri Lanka from 10th to 27th November 2016 is dedicated to them.
Lukshan Abeysuriya passed away on 11th January 2017
Here’s a daily log, of experiences, and views, I logged down in a travel digest. I Hope you will enjoy reading it, the views and observations in this short epistle are entirely my own.
Day 1
As always, the first day of the journey was full of anxiety and expectation. My wife, brave soul accompanied me to Heathrow, which was a great support as my mobility was still weak from the Neuropathy (acute feet pain). I had not flown to Sri Lanka for a long time from Heathrow on SriLankan Airlines direct flight. The departure time was 8.20pm, ample time to savour the delights and comforts of BA-Business class lounge, which was wonderful, comfortable home from home. I had scraped the barrel and upgraded my outward flight to business class, in view of my mobility handicap.
Day 2
Bidding farewell to my wife and daughter, I felt very emotional, particularly for leaving them behind, I soon settled into the comforts and luxury of my first and perhaps only experience on business class. Yes, it was good, but was full, but the flat bed was very poor, with my feet and legs disability, getting in and out of that narrow space was literally like getting into a canoe. The food and silver service was excellent, well served, and I enjoyed that part of business class. The flight was good and we were pleased to land in Colombo on schedule. At Colombo arrivals, Mercury Holding Representatives welcomed as in 2013, last visit, and a good Aitken Spence car/driver who soon got us to the fast expressway from the airport, but sadly got badly affected by busy Colombo traffic, before we got on to the Southern Expressway.
After an hour or so we got to Galle, and arrived at my first hotel, Koggala Beach Hotel, where I had a good welcome and conducted to a large comfortable room, and soon un-wound with a nice cup of tea.
Day 3
After a good breakfast took a friendly tuk-tuk to Habaraduwa, to Cargills Food city, to buy some stuff, it gave me a quick shock on how much prices had risen in Sri Lanka since our last visit in 2013. I felt sorry for ordinary citizens whose income had not risen to face the spiralling inflation. Had a long chat with the Catering Manager of the hotel who was very proud I was a distinguished old Mahindian returning Expat, staying five nights at his hotel, he looked after me very well, including arranging for a fresh sandwich to be served in my bed room at night, (at no further cost) to have in case of a diabetic hypo late night.
Day 4
I was very keen to visit the Weliwatta Pirivena in Galle where my late father was a chief benefactor, also to visit Galle Fort, to be near the Light house in Pedlar Street where I was born nearly 82 years ago. Meeting the Head Thera – on a Sunday morning when the temple was very busy, was an experience I loved, we reminisced about my recent recovery from cancer, and blessed me with pirith thread, to maintain good health, I gave a cash donation and agreed to send a further donation through my brother in law for an event to pass merit to my late parents.
I then went to the Galle Rampart, by afternoon, it was like Galle Face Green in Colombo of good old days, full of young tourists and local courting couples protected under colourful parasols, shining like butterflies. Galle Fort is now a world heritage site, and it had a vibrancy, I had not felt before in my previous visits.
Standing under the majestic Lighthouse, looking out into Closenberg Bay, was a proud sight, and then to reflect on my own, that I was born near here in May 1934.
Galle main streets were teeming with a myriad of small shops all bustling with trade, I went to three shops before I bought a good quality leather belt; few years ago one could buy a similar one from the ever present pavement hawkers now banned by the authorities after Galle became a UNESCO site, such is the flip side of progress.
Day 5
Was a Poya Day, the hotel bar was shut and even the tourists were quiet, we had a heavy thunderstorm and lighting, I was quiet in my room, looking out of the balcony on the heaviness of the rainfall. By evening, the sun came out and I thought I would venture out to the beach where the water was calm and warm. I waded out with my friendly walking stick and swimming trunks and Rio 2016, flip flops. I stood admiring the distant horizon into the Indian ocean, with the gentle tide up to my knees, All of a sudden I felt the feet were getting stuck in the soft receding sand, I lost my balance completely and fell flat out on my face, with the walking stick — my aid — and the slippers disappearing into the sea, like flotsam and jetsom. Naturally I panicked as I could not get up without the stick, as my legs being weak.
I was fortunate as I shouted for help a British couple who were nearby realised my predicament, and rushed to help me. The strong gentleman helped to lift me from my shoulders and the lady waded out and rescued the valuable walking stick and slippers. They guided me to safety, and after a short rest, managed to retire to the safety of my room. The day ended well. The evening meal on Poya Day was excellent, lots of herbal dishes, white fish and delicious curried lotus root and delicious cream of spinach soup. After all that, I slept well, thank God for small mercies.
Day 6
Packed my bag the best as I could, especially now heavier with lot of souvenirs/dresses/elephants etc. for children and grandchildren. Said farewell to the staff at Koggala Beach Hotel, which I enjoyed, was sad to leave the friendly people in Koggala, my only previous contact with them went back during the Second World War, where Koggala was a strategic air base of the RAF. I vaguely remember my father was the visiting medical officer from Galle, when I accompanied my father to see the RAF Amphibious sea planes on the lagoon. I vividly remember as a 10-year-old, they gave my father war rations — big tins of corned beef and egg powder, which my mother made corned beef hash and omelettes for the seven of us at Galle.
I was transferred to my favourite hotel in Kalutara the Tangerine, where I was given a royal welcome — this was my fourth visit – by the Resident General Manager Lakal Jayasinghe, my friend Gian Liyannge, Assistant Manager and several familiar faces of the staff. I was given room 222, for the fourth time and I happily settled into the comforts of the Tangerine. I was welcomed by one of the smart lady staff with a tray of fresh fruit, local sweets, and a nice bottle of Red wine, and given an invitation for the Repeaters Dinner which the RGM, hosts. I really felt at home. I shall hope to come again in a couple of years perhaps 2018-19 or so with Barbara, God willing. Went to a nice jewellery shop in the hotel and bought an expensive blue sapphire ring for Barbara, they gave me the usual Galle discount, as both of us were born there.
Day 7
Despite the heavy thunderstorms, I enjoyed the tranquillity of Tangerine. Bought further souvenirs for the family in Tangerine shop, whose staff were very helpful, it stopped me having to struggle out in crowded shops.
Day 8
My last of short three-day sojourn at homely Tangerine. I was waiting for the Gala dinner the RGM, hosted for 16 repeat guests. Well what a great event in the fifth floor supper room. The only problem — getting there to the top floor was a struggle. I literally crawled up on my hands and friendly walking stick. Naturally I complained to the RGM and his staff on the inadequacy of disability facilities for an oldie like me. RGM, like a good General put matters in hand for a wheelchair and four of his strong staff to help me to get back to my room.
The inconvenience was minor compared to lavish and sumptuous meal, which I want to share with my readers:
Starters: Poached Prawns, Tuna Tataki, Teriyaki chicken with mango salsa, yellow papaya relish, macerated melon Duo of Asparagus and crab meat soup with prawn crackers.
Tamarind Sorbet was heavenly delicious, sat next to Lakal, I offered my compliments to the chef.
Choice of main course: Baked crab with cucumber, noodles salad and crispy potato wedges, or Seafood platter with parmesan mash, saffron beurre blanc and braised vegetables, I had wisely pre-ordered this choice which was absolutely excellent, never had I tasted such brilliant sea food or for the carnivores there was chicken roulade and lamb kebab with merlot pepper jus, potato porridge and saute vegetables. Looking at the English guests who sat next to me, they loved the meat choice, and said the lamb was perfect.
The dessert was an exotically prepared Baked Alaska with fruit topping, the whole plate delicately lit, what a masterpiece produced by the Chef.
I thanked the RGM, and his dedicated staff for one of the best meals I had ever had, and said that my wife and I plan to visit for fifth time in a couple of years to collect a silver medal, having won a bronze at our last visit in 2013. We all congratulated a German couple who were on their incredible 23rd visit, not only for the excellent food but for regular herbal massage/treatment.
After, a couple of glasses of red wine, and on a heavy and full stomach, I was ready for the descent back to my room, let me tell you Lakal had so effectively put that matter in hand. I was carried three flights, by the four strong boys like in a royal palanquin, until the flights eased for wheel chair access. All in all, a splendid evening: I got to my room and had the best sleep since I arrived in Sri Lanka, eight nights ago.
Day 9
After a leisurely breakfast, awaited eagerly to meet Kingsley, Travel Lanka Compass (TLC) diver, a car hire firm recommended by my nephew Ravi. Kingsley arrived early and I bade farewell to friendly staff of Tangerine, hoping to come again. Kingsley was a careful and helpful driver and I felt happy in his care.
We went to Panadura and Moratuwa via the old Galle Road, which was bustling with activity and arrived at my nephew Bhuwenaka’s hotel, Ranveli in Mount Lavinia. The staff in charge welcomed me like family, and I soon settled for a rest in a comfortable four-post large bed. My cousin, his wife and my host Bhuwenaka greeted me after nearly 10 years since I last met them.
In the evening, I went to the first of the five family dinners, at my brother’s house. They were delighted to meet me and I was thrilled to see my elder brother, now over 86, looking well. After a lavish Egg hopper and fish dinner, I enormously enjoyed. I returned to my room at Ranveli and crashed into bed after a good day.
Day 10
I had a good rest, went for the family dinner at my nephew’s home. This family function was the highlight of my holiday, there were over 25 close family members invited by the genial hosts. The food was excellent, and all arrangements were most enjoyable. It was a very joyous occasion to meet close relatives hosted by Ravi and his wife Dila and not for the first time, they really are a most hospitable couple; I am very grateful to them.
Day 11
Was a quiet day with dinner in the evening at my sister’ home. My sister with no domestic help had prepared a lovely dinner, including fried seer fish, and remembered to get some egg godamba, which were my favourites. After a long chat including Buddhism and politics with my brother-in-law, I was back at Ranveli. These late evening dinners and late nights were becoming the norm.
Day 12
Very heavy rain, whole day, the original plans for a Beach BBQ hosted by Bhuwenaka was scrapped, but we enjoyed a great hopper supper in the shade of the dining room, with 18 family members. Some were unable to come due to the heavy rains. Senadhi- Lakshapathie ayias’ elder son drove all the way from Ella to meet me. Really enjoyed the Ranveli cooking, egg hoppers were delicious, the best I had ever eaten.
Day 13
One of the highlights of the visit to Sri Lanka was my trip to Kandy. My family were somewhat apprehensive that I was undertaking this two-day trip which was arduous. However, I was confident that my Driver Kingsley Wickremaratne would be able to look after me. I had briefed him well through TLC, on my medical needs and partial disability. Kingsley arrived early and we had a head start in the morning traffic from Mount Lavinia to the Kandy. He was so careful and considerate that I dozed off in the spacious back seat. He woke me up at Pasyala to be greeted by a pretty Cadju girl. She was nice but the cadju was not as good as the good old days. On Kingsley’s advice, we did not stop at the Pinnawela Elephant Orphanage, as walking would be difficult with my weak feet. We soon reached Kandy, bustling with heavy traffic, and checked in to a familiar hotel.
Day 14 & 15
I really enjoyed my visit to Kandy; the crowning achievement was to visit the inner chamber of the Temple of the Tooth, where Kingsley had obtained wheel chair assistance from the local police. In addition, Kingsley drove me to my favourite University campus at Peradeniya where I had graduated over 60 years ago, and re-lived many happy memories of the 1954-7 period where I read for an honours degree in Economics and Political science. We had lunch at the newly opened sumptuous Kandy Silverware Asso, restaurant. This was right opposite Kingswood College, where I was a teacher in 1957-8, my first job, again it brought very happy memories there both as a resident boarding master and cricket coach of the under -16s. I went to Gunatilaka’s famous batik factory and bought an expensive wall hanging.
Day 16
After two relaxing days in Kandy, I was sad to return to Colombo, and vowed that I would come again in 2018-19, should I be fit enough. The return journey was good — less traffic. Stopped at Jinedasa’s for delicious Thalaguly. We arrived in Colombo before mid-day and checked in at the comfortable Ramada hotel to have a sleep before our last family dinner at The Boulevard. Kingsley my driver was excellent. He looked after me so well, and I enjoyed my trip partially due to his care and friendship.
The Thai food at the Boulevard was very good, tasty and well served: 14 of my close family members enjoyed the evening and bade me Au-Revoir, hopefully till 2018/9, when I hope to make my last trip to my paradise island where I was born.
Day 17
I was ready after breakfast, as usual. Kingsley arrived early, and we got to Katunnayake airport to catch the Sri Lankan flight to London. I bade farewell to Kingsley, a great driver and Friend, and I gave him a good tip for his care and attention. I told, him in three years, I shall book him with Travel Lanka Compass which was very good with all the arrangements. I had a good service at the Airport, ground staff, who provided wheel chair assistance and passport clearance, and got to the departures lounge in good time.
The return flight on economy was comfortable’ had plenty of leg room, upon informing the stewardess that I was a diabetic, they looked after me well, including serving the early lunch and drinks. I soon settled to a rest and we arrived at London Heathrow on schedule. Terminal 3 was crowded, where I was eventually given wheel chair assistance. It was perishing cold, -5C in London, without warm clothes or a big coat, we left Sri Lanka in the heat of 26C. I managed to get a taxi home. Barbara and my pet cat Harry boy were waiting with heating on full blast and two hot water bottles to warm me up, and by Jove I was pleased to arrive home and give Barbara a big cuddle.
It was an epic trip, I enjoyed so much, achieved my wish for peace and renewal after my illness.
(Editor’s note: Mr. Lukshan Abeysuriya passed away on 11th January 2017.)