Oasis of taste and peace amidst the city hubbub
Salmon Tartar’
Opening their doors on November 14, EPICURE is Colombo’s latest dining experience comfortably situated on the somewhat peaceful Gregory’s Road, in the heart of Colombo 7. Offering modern and classical European style cuisine in bold new flavours, the restaurant fundamentally practises a ‘farm to table’ method of service.
“We are conscious of what we put on the table,” joint founder Wendell Rebeira says with a smile. Having had over 22 years of experience in the hospitality industry he is joined in this venture by marketer Robert Jayatunga.
Entering Epicure, we found an oasis of taste and peace amidst the Colombo hubbub. The earthy, eco-friendly space is designed by Minha Musheen of The Living Concept.
Open for lunch and dinner throughout the week, the menu is an amalgamation of contemporary and classic dishes.
We started off with strips of foccacia accompanied with a potent dip. This oven-baked classic Italian bread was well seasoned with olive oil, salt and rosemary– literally ambrosia for your palate and a preview of what was to come.
Next was the ‘Salmon Tartar’ (Rs. 1500) –sashimi styled, melt-in-your-mouth diced, fresh salmon atop a nest of beetroot and avocado with seasoning of sesame, lime and soy marinade. Refreshing and light, the piece of bread balancing on the appetizer added a welcome additional crunch.
The ‘Seared Duck’ (usually served as a main priced at Rs. 2000) was an overall amazing dish. The French duck seared and accompanied with sautéed bok choy, mushrooms, caramelized pears, millefiori honey gently ladled over a moat of five spice curry – gave the dish a much needed spice kick. This appetizer is best accompanied with the creamy, truffle oil and parmesan collaborated ‘Porcini Mushroom Risotto’ (R. 850) the serving staff helpfully suggested.
The ‘Lamb Tartar’ (Rs. 1600) was according to Wendell “our take on a beef tartare”. The term “tartare” usually generalised as raw meat saw our group step back but the hosts informed us that although the dish is “completely raw” it is completely edible. The dish comprises topside beef (zero fat) accompanied with a quail egg, dry chili, lime coriander and roasted rice, packed with flavour greatly contributed by the fish sauce.
Wendell Rebeira and Robert Jayatunga
Wendell informed us that meat is never stored for long at Epicure. Everything is made fresh adding emphasis to the lifestyle followed at the restaurant from ‘farm to table’. “We order meat at least 4 times a week,” he said.
‘U12 Prawns’ (Rs. 3100) and‘Rib Eye M2’ (Rs. 4000) were next. The U12 Prawns, were five succulent jumbo prawns, one of Epicure’s most delightful creations with “unorthodox vegetables” carefully styled with a Tom Yum infusion.
For dessert, a ‘Spicy chocolate fondant’ (Rs. 900) had that zap of heat through the skin of a scotch bonnet chillie. The slow burn at the back of our throats was dulled by the pairing of two artisanal ice creams – dark chocolate and hazelnut, giving the dish a Nutella-esque taste.
The spice infusions into the largely European menu balances well with our Sri Lankan curry adoring palates as the chefs “enhance the flavours of Epicure’s original recipes,” Wendell shares. The chefs, all from Kandy have kept busy over the months in the test kitchen experimenting with flavours whilst the hospitable staff learn the art of becoming true wine connoisseurs. The menu has no sulphates or added preservatives and has only the “best products” delivered in the “healthiest manner,” Wendell adds.
The natural, feel good ambience is well complimented by the refined dining. “We want to deliver an experience,” says Wendell adding “We want you to feel like you are coming to our home.”