A walk of faith from centuries past
Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela
As far as Catholic pilgrimages go, the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Spain’s north-western province of Galicia ranks in the same league as the destinations of Jerusalem and Rome.
The number of those who undertake the pilgrim’s walk to Santiago – known in Spanish as El Camino de Santiago – has been increasing over the years. It was in the 9th century that the bones of St James, one of Jesus Christ’s twelve apostles, were “discovered” in a tomb here and a shrine – later to become a magnificent cathedral – was constructed over the tomb. Last year no less than 300,000 pilgrims received at the end of their journey to Santiago the prized ‘Compostela’ (certificate of completion) – a certificate given only to those who cover at least a hundred kilometres of this pilgrimage on foot. Those who make the journey on horseback or on bicycle can also obtain the Compostela – but to be eligible, they have to cover twice the distance that walkers do.
In 1985 the city of Santiago de Compostela with its famous cathedral and other heritage buildings was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List and is now a popular tourist destination. In addition to those who undertake the traditional pilgrimage on foot there are those who visit the city in tour groups – a category that now includes quite a few tourists from Sri Lanka.
Templar castle at Ponferrada
My own journey to Santiago was made the traditional way, walking 800 kilometres over six weeks from the French border village of St Jean Pied de Port all the way to Santiago. Made in the company of my son, it was an amazing journey that allowed me not only to savour the scenery but also to enjoy the company of others from various parts of the world who had themselves decided to take time off from the routine of their lives to walk this path. We stayed overnight in albergues (simple dormitory-style accommodation) or in modest bed and breakfast places; we each took our stuff (just over ten kilograms in weight) in haversacks carried on our backs.
Silver casket believed to contain relics of St James
The route we traversed is known as the Via Frances that commences in the foothills of the French Pyrenees. It crosses the French-Spanish border in the mountains and then meanders through the Spanish provinces of Navarra, La Rioja, Leon, Castille and Galicia. Our trek took us through a variety of landscapes – the magnificent Pyrenees mountains, fields of wheat and vineyards in the flat central meseta and then through the green and mist-laden hills of Celtic Galicia. We passed through quaint little villages still retaining a medieval air – most of which had seen better days, today being sustained economically mainly by the income from pilgrims walking the Camino. We saw ancient churches in which the faithful have worshipped for the past several hundred years – empty and musty if you trespass in on a weekday morning but filled with the devout during the times of Sunday mass.
Path through Spanish village
We had the opportunity to visit magnificent cathedrals in cities such as Leon, Burgos and Santiago itself, with their graven images and gilded retablos that just make one wonder whether all this ostentation is in keeping with the simple message that Jesus Christ preached!
The Camino is not just another long hiking trail – it is a footpath with a difference, traversed by the faithful (and the not so faithful!) all wending their way to St James’ shrine. The way is indicated by stone markers with the traditional scallop shell motif or simply by prominent yellow arrows painted on tree trunks, walls, lamp-posts and the pavement itself. The road to Santiago still passes through most of the same villages, climbs the same hills and crosses the same rivers it has been doing for hundreds of years, providing today’s pilgrims the opportunity of visiting the same cathedrals, churches and chapels that their predecessors did over the centuries.
Bridge at Puenta la Reina
Averaging 20 kilometres a day, walking alone for six weeks along this path gives one time to think, to reflect, to ponder on things that the rat race of modern life does not give you the time or inclination to do. Walking with a spouse or parent or child provides one an opportunity to reconnect, to share time together without the constant interruptions of the householder’s existence. Walking in company allows one to meet folk from different parts of the world and different walks of life – folk one would never have met if not for the Camino.
Along the road to Santiago we made acquaintances, we talked, we connected – and even made friendships with folk from around the world that have lasted long after we completed our journey.