Arts
Design as a concept
Clothes that can never be worn or sold – Why do student-designers come up with such attire?
Niroshani Leanage. Pic by M.A. Pushpa Kumara
This is an oft asked question and it is the Managing Director of the Lanka Institute of Fashion and Technology (LIFT), Niroshani Leanage who gives the simple answer, “These clothes are designed to bring out a concept and are not intended to be worn by anyone.”
As preparations are underway for the Second Edition of the International Graduate Fashion Spectacle (IGFS) 2018 from July 5 to 10 at the Hilton Colombo, organized by LIFT in collaboration with the French Embassy, Ms. Leanage explains that events such as IGFS are for student-designers to showcase their collections to the public for the first time.
The finale of the IGFS will take place on July 10 at 7 p.m. at the Hilton Colombo.
The fashions of 25 local and international fashion graduates of 2018 will be featured this year. Confirmations have been received from fashion graduates from Germany, France, Hungary, Pakistan, India and Bangladesh who were invited through ‘open participation calls’ made to fashion institutes around the world.
The clothes that are designed to be worn by people are the commercially viable clothes and student-designers at LIFT have the choice to go down any of these avenues when creating their collections, Ms. Leanage explains.
Preparations for IGFS 2018 were set in motion six months ago, with the “look” of the show being conceptualized, she said, reiterating that just because there is new technology, one should not use that technology everywhere. In fashion shows focusing on clothes, it is always advisable to keep the backdrops plain as it enables the clothes to standout and complements choreographic and accessory variations with the models. Video wall backdrops are a cheaper and preferred option today, allowing all the information on the designs to be displayed on the same space that is used as a backdrop.
This could, however,be a challenge for photographers. When there is a lot going on behind the model, the backdrop fails to complement the model or the clothes in a photograph, she points out.
Lighting, according to Ms. Leanage, is a key element in a fashion show. Warm white lights should be used if it is an event showcasing clothes. The spotlight effect is what brings out the model’s real look and the real colour of the fabrics. “If the colour you see is different, you are misleading the audience and the connection between the designer and the client is broken because of the lighting. Coloured lights may sometimes change the skin tones of models too.”
Next she turns the spotlight on the models, differentiating between those who should be put on the catwalk and those suitable for photo-shoots. The ideal model size they select for catwalks is UK size 10, as it is the standard size. It is important for models not to have discernible looks which they have created for themselves, so that the designers can innovate with whatever they have in mind for the model.
Fashion shows need to be focused and short. When the show finishes, the audience should ideally be able to remember the clothes they saw, is a principle that Ms. Leanage stands by. She thinks the music of a fashion show should blend with the mood that the designers wish to reflect through their collections.
Backstage management is also crucial. Models should be in line and there should be adequate numbers to ensure that the models get a break. “A tired model who is rushing from one collection to the other will not be able to concentrate on what to do on stage,” Ms. Leanage says, explaining that the backstage manager and helpers are like heroes without capes. The helpers place the clothes in the right place, tagged and ready as they are much involved when the models have to switch from one set to another. They also look into the detail, ensuring that an outfit is paired with the correct undergarments.
“As a design institute we are strict about backstage discipline. Smoking is prohibited as also alcohol consumption since walking on the catwalk in high heels under the influence of liquor is dangerous for the models as well as those around them. Everyone has to mind their language too, as teamwork and respect for each other are important,” she says.
Meanwhile, the documentation such as cue sheets which are a major part of the script, is also vital. For students of LIFT who are not showcasing any collections, the IGFS is an opportunity to learn the logistics behind-the-scenes, adds Ms. Leanage.
Tickets for the finale of IGFS 2018 priced at Rs. 2,000 are on sale at the LIFT Office at No. 3, Coniston Place, Colombo 7 (opposite Sri Lanka Rupavahini Corporation) and the IGFS Event Desk at the Hilton Hotel, Colombo. They will also be sold on the day of the event at the door.