Kolamba: Culinary memories of home in the heart of London
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Newly opened in Soho, London, Kolamba was born of owners Aushi and Eroshan Meewella’s love for the recipes they grew up eating in the homes of family and friends in Colombo. Drawing on these vibrant culinary memories of their childhood, their new Lankan restaurant also looks to champion emerging talent, collaborating with food, design and art specialists of Sri Lankan heritage.
Each dish on the menu has its own unique story, handed down from either a family member or friend. A concise ‘Bites’ section includes Aunty Mo’s Chatti Roast with string hopper and fragrant kiri hodi (turmeric infused coconut milk) and Polos Pattis, succulent pieces of lightly spiced, savoury jakfruit wrapped in soft, buttery pastry and fried golden.
In the ‘Meat and Fish Curries’ section Kamala’s Kalu Pol Pork is a highlight, slow cooked and rich in spice, so too the milder saffron-infused Yellow Monkfish Curry, influenced by coastal Negombo fishmongers.
Many Sri Lankan dishes are naturally vegan and vegetarian, with coconut a ubiquitous ingredient throughout the island. Eroshan’s favourite of Beetroot Curry (shredded beetroot cooked in coconut oil and curry leaves) and classic Parippu (red lentil dhal with curry leaves and fried garlic) are in the ‘Vegetable’ section. ‘Sambols’ (fresh salads using local vegetables) running from Snakegourd Sambol and Gotukola Sambol, make up a dedicated part of the menu.
‘Rice and Breads’ will mop up these sauces and spices, with signature Pol Roti and String Hoppers with Pol Sambol and Kiri Hodis. Dessert, such as Coconut Sorbet with Grated Lime are a refreshing and restorative end to the meal.
The décor of the two floored, 58 cover restaurant is a nod to the Tropical Modernism movement.
A design collaboration between Studio Fils and Whitebox London, great care has been spent collecting contemporary stoneware to line the shelves of the restaurant and in sourcing bespoke art installations by contemporary Sri Lankan batik artist Sonali Dharmawardena to adorn the walls. Timber framed fabric pendant lighting, reminiscent of the paper lanterns hung around homes during Vesak give it an authentic Lankan touch.
Kolamba is at 21 Kingly Street, Soho, W1B 5QA. See their website: www.kolamba.co.uk or Instagram: @kolamba.ldn for more details.