We have come to attend Kataragama’s annual ‘water-cutting’ ceremony diya kapima, which takes place in a temporary sacramental tent-like structure covered in branches and leaves.

The object of worship is placed upon the sacred blessed elephant by the high priest, who commands the pilgrims’ attention, as it is taken not only to the Valli Amman Temple but also to the Kiri Vihare. Here, cultural and religious differences, where you come from or how old you are no longer matter; irrelevant in this auspicious hour that feels for some like a rebirth and for others a chance to wash away the pain and sadness of some life-changing event.

Despite the country’s ongoing challenges, I wanted to experience the holy city of Kataragama at festival time and not put off by the overloaded buses, I packed a small bag to make the trip. The carnival-like feeling and sharing between people going to this auspicious place is so infectious that even sitting on piled up boxes or behind a suitcase does not matter with the religious fervour and kindness for which Sri Lankans are world famous.

Lots of people asked why I was going to Kataragama, as it was not so much as to make a wish for the coming year, as I once did to have a son in 2005, but to let the sadness of losing my husband Shiyam wash away and hopefully heal my shattered spirits.

Standing in the stream surrounded by people who had travelled not only by bus, but also on foot from as far away as Jaffna was humbling, and more-so, when the religious elder took the sacred casket from the inner sanctum of the temple, carrying it to the holy waters of the Menik Ganga, followed by the formal announcement by the drummers, to all devotees in the area, that we are heralding a new dawn. They dip the sacred casket in the river amidst  shouts of “Haro Hara”. Thousands of pilgrims go down on their knees into the cooling waters, uttering mystic mantras, before totally immersing themselves as the holy trident itself is also covered in water blessed from a sacred bowl.

The whole place then turns into what looks like a giant water fight as the water is sprinkled and thrown through the air and all one can hear is the laughter and happiness that surrounds such a special event, as containers are filled up to be taken home as a blessing from the water cutting hour.

Afterwards I explore the ancient temple complex and learn more about the area which during this festive period quadruples in size and becomes an extraordinary melting pot of Buddhists, Hindus, Muslims and the indigenous Veddahs.

For those who do not have time to cook in the early morning, there is an array of stalls leading up to the temple complex, selling baskets of beautifully laid out puja wattiya – a platter of special offerings made up of five fruits, a king coconut, incense sticks, a flower necklace and coins washed in turmeric water to purify them, wrapped in new red cotton material with a knot either side like a bracelet. Shiva and Vishnu are represented in blue and Skanda symbolised by ritual red; for sacred wishes after the holy puja, one must pick correctly.

The puja stalls are full of lively village women from the area, peeling back the lotus petals as if in a form of lifelong meditation. I also stop and buy a coconut and coconut oil in a recycled bottle and put a prayer cloth made from saree material on top of my temple gifts, before heading into the inner sanctum. Here I pour some of my bottle of oil into the eternally lit temple lantern called Doles mahe pahana, which is a light that never stops burning.

I keep a little bit of oil for the Skanda devale and join another line of pilgrims with my puja to be blessed by the temple’s holy men ‘kapu mahattaya’, who take all the pilgrims’ pujas behind a silk curtain.

While they say prayers and bless us, the curtain moves and they take half the tray of goodies for the temple community, while other holy men chant in Sanskrit over what remains. I bow my head as hands cross over it and the pujas are returned so that I can celebrate my prayers, by breaking fast with the half that remains.

Eating the fruit after such an early start and the river bath full of blessings is very special, as hunger sharpens my mind to enjoy the blessed food even more than after an average daily meal. I then go to the Thrishzilaya ‘three pronged trident’ and decide to tie my blessed coin onto Shiva’s weapon next to it, as I learn how it also symbolises femininity and strength; I pray that the inner light that keeps us all going burns even more brightly. As I tie each knot with my prayers folded between each layer of the cloth, it becomes part of a totem pole of many thousands of special pilgrim requests. I return to touch the piece of material one last time, the wind blows and a bird screams overhead like an omen.

Before leaving the complex, I light three incense sticks, as a farewell offering to the god and take part in the mottuwa, where the priest anoints the pilgrim with turmeric powder and sandalwood. This blessing is for the year ahead, and the red dot is added from the Hindu culture, reminding us we must all find a way to get along and respect each others’ differences.

It also shows to others that we have made our yearly pilgrimage to Kataragama.

As I walk ahead to join other pilgrims to enjoy dansal just outside the main temple complex where refreshing ginger tea is given out daily to thousands I also try a skirincra flour biscuit. This, along with the tea, gives me the energy to visit the other sacred spots and walk through the now empty River of Gems, again to see the beautiful Ganesh temple and shrines.

Between sacred spots, including Kataragama’s awe inspiring mosque, I walk barefoot on burning hot sand. I stop and pray that one day I will return with my two sons to do the Pada Yatra 45-day pilgrimage from Jaffna to Kataragama along the East Coast, so they too can understand the importance of these ancient traditions.

Back home, I ceremoniously sprinkle my small bottle of River of Gems water  on the garden and as the last drop hits the ground, I finally feel the inner strength to live for the future. So, if you want a life changing experience, go at least once in your lifetime to Kataragama where you can really embrace Sri Lanka’s rich spiritual traditions.

 

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