Monastic site that exudes spiritual wisdom
Sacred and serene: The Seruwila temple premises. Pix by Juliet Coombe
Seruwila in many ways is Sri Lanka’s best kept secret, and, although the temple complex with its impressive 100 feet bubble shaped white stupa wrapped around with red ribbon is not exactly the equivalent of the Pyramids of Giza or the tombs in the Valley of the Kings in Egypt, scratch the surface and you will discover a remarkable ancient living civilization. As well as notable archaeological ruins and a much revered temple site since it was founded in the second century BC.
On the surface, Seruwila Viharaya looks like just another Sri Lankan pilgrimage site, situated in the Trincomalee district of the Eastern Province, which can be reached by road or, for the more adventurous, through Kantalai’s dense forest that leads you to this mystical setting of the ancient Buddhist temple known by several different names including Seruwila Mangala Raja Maha Vihara, which means gold dust. Here, in this largely forgotten underpopulated spot, herds of wild elephants still roam everywhere including in the temple grounds, only a few feet away from where you are walking barefoot – an incredible experience. Whether it is the clear starlit nights, or the raw nature of being at one with wildlife, there is an intense spiritual wisdom here which you feel from the moment you enter this living monastical site.
It is said that the magnificent stupa was built during the lifetime of the Buddha 2,500 years ago. Some archaeologists believe it is the possible location of the gold that was used to gold plate the stone umbrellas also encrusted with gem stones, as mentioned in the front entrance of the Archaeological Museum in Seruwila.
Ancient heritage: The stone Buddha statue at the Seruwila museum
What we know for sure is that Seruwila temple was built in the 2nd century B.C. by King Kavantissa, who was ruling the Kingdom of Ruhuna. At this very temple, Gautama Buddha is said to have offered eight handfuls of ‘sapu’ flowers, which is interestingly Sri Lanka’s lucky number. As one of the 16th holiest sites in the country, one feels a sense of awe as you walk through the ancient stone temple doorway and join the throngs of pilgrims, who gather here for daily pujas and to also seek enlightenment.
An international explorer working in the area, Mark Bolster of SouthCorp Capital Inc, tells me there is much more to discover than just the Seruwila temple and museum. He talks animatedly about discovering graphite and copper in the area and how these metals will be an economic game changer for Sri Lanka. His main target, however, is gold as he knows from historical records that it existed in large amounts in Sri Lanka, referenced, since the 3rd century, in Pali chronicles like the Mahavansa, Deepavansa and Chulavansa.
“In truth, like everything in life, you need more than just excellent scientific research; thorough geological reporting on the area by world renowned experts like Dr Christian Derosier who report for the Geological Survey and Mines Bureau (GSMB), detailed aerial geological mapping – are all essential components for hitting the source rock, but ultimately you also need a good nose for gold,” Bolster says.
Seruwila, I realise, is an incredible melting pot of people of all ages and from all walks of life. Here ancient traditions blend with daily colourful pujas that drum us clockwise around the stupa following a holy man wafting an incense bowl and then a temple horn player in Kandyan dress, drummers and pilgrims with yellow umbrellas carrying gifts placed on silver trays for Lord Buddha under golden saree cloths. Once they have done the full circle, prayers take place and food is given to the Buddha statue after being blessed by the temple monks.
From the inner sanctum it is a short walk to a range of archaeological ruins, including an ancient bathing area, detailed moonstones and the quaint museum, with examples of the first stone toilets in the world. The Seruwila Temple artefact collection comes from all around the area and includes an impressive stone hand carved Buddha, that is over 2,500 years old; also, pottery in human form, and carved tablets that still await translation. Perhaps the most eye opening are the copper plates and flints that were used by primitive man 4,000 years ago.
The more time you spend talking to the community, the more you learn about this truly special place, after listening to their stories over steaming cups of milk tea in the Seruwila street kades, also known as hotels, even though there is nowhere to stay except at the Nuwan guest house. Sadly Seruwila a once impressive place of worship fell into decay under the pressure of the numerous Tamil skirmishes from the north, until it was fully restored in 1920s.
Although there is not much to buy souvenir wise, there are some useful items produced just behind the little eateries. Here you can observe locals weaving palmyrah into lovely everyday household items and a kitul spoon seller. I talk to a war photographer and he explains how different things are from only a decade ago, when the surrounding fields were land mined. Today due to the Mines Advisory Group clearing them, the community can again walk safely and plant their food crops.
In this lively setting you can enjoy homemade dough rolled out with a beer bottle and even have a go at making a few rotis yourself, before cooking and dipping them into a spicy homemade sambol, available both in the morning and evening by the temple grounds, where the community gather daily to exchange news, sell flowers to visiting pilgrims and other special offerings for the Buddha.
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