Trinco's beaches beckon

Hotels and rest houses that were closed down due to the lack of business are springing back to life. New restaurants and hotels are opening everywhere while those already in existence are being refurbished. 

Pigeon Island, a short boat ride from Nilaveli

An executive at the Hotel New Sea Lord by the seaside at Uppuveli in Trincomalee, S. Sridharan, said the rooms in the hotel were closed for several years and only the restaurant was functioning. However, now with increased tourist arrivals, the rooms are being whitewashed, tiles changed and other repairs being attended to.

The Nilaveli Beach Hotel which had survived through a dismal period, recorded a 40 per cent occupancy this year compared to a mere 10 per cent during the same period last year. Said Resident Manager Prem Kumar, "All rooms are now booked for every weekend although this is not the season to visit Trinco. We are expecting a higher occupancy rate in March and April." 

Seven Islands Hotel and Park, facing the Trinco harbour has 25 rooms of which 18 are presently under repair. "The rooms were occupied by the Army all these years so they have to be repaired," said R Varatharajah, the officer who overlooks all the functions of the hotel.

When guests arrive, they recommend other hotels since they have only seven rooms in operation. "With the increasing number of arrivals to Trinco, even houses are being converted to Lodges," she said.

"We are in the process of transferring staff and getting an additional nine rooms ready to cater to the increased demand for rooms," said Mani Sugathapala, Manager, Marketing and Sales of the John Keells Group, who manage the Hotel Club Oceanic in Nilaveli.

Club Oceanic has 80 rooms, but only 36 are presently functional. However, they are planning to open up to 45 rooms soon. "We are full for all the weekends," Mr. Sugathapala said, adding that Club Oceanic had been in a near dormant state all these years, but with the peace process-taking place, they see an increase in business.

While war-torn Trincomalee is still limping back to normalcy, tourists who spoke to The Sunday Times showed little fear or reluctance to come here.

Inge Friberg of Sweden has been visiting Sri Lanka for the last 22 years and identifies Trincomalee as one of the finest holiday destinations in the country. 

Making vows at Koneswaram

Spending their honeymoon in Trinco were Jim Miller and his wife from London who wanted to come to Sri Lanka again. Having heard about the place through friends, they chose Trincomalee as their first stop in Sri Lanka. "We love the beaches here and definitely would recommend it to our friends," they said.

In addition to the increasing tourist arrivals were many Lankans who were making use of the ceasefire to visit Trinco, a place that many have always yearned to see but so far, lacked the opportunity. With few checkpoints along the way, people found the journey less of a hassle.

Vajira Kumarasiri and his family were visiting Trincomalee for the first time. "We have been wanting to visit this part of the country for so long, but the protracted war kept us away. We decided to visit soon after the ceasefire because we don't know what the future would be."

A favourite stop for visitors in Trincomalee is Pigeon Island - a ten to 15 minute boat ride from the Nilaveli beach. A little rocky islet where the blue rock pigeon breeds, it is an attractive place to picnic, dive or snorkel. Full of corals, the crystal-clear water, white sand and the shady trees around make the island an ideal picnic destination - a paradise to a traveller. 

John Frederick from the U.S, was here on business, but couldn't resist a short visit to Trincomalee. "I thought I shouldn't miss this opportunity after hearing so much about the place. I wish I had brought my partner who would have enjoyed snorkeling."

Meanwhile locals were more interested in visiting temples and the hot springs. The Koneswaram temple located on the eastern precipice of Fort Frederick is a famous spot that people of all religions visit and make vows at. The temple has a long history; it had been razed to the ground during Portuguese rule and rebuilt in 1963. 

The precipice near the temple has something else to offer young people. On a tree that branches from a rock on the precipice are pieces of cloth tied there by people making vows. According to the Temple's Secretary K. Vellipuram, many young people here come to the spot to make vows. Despite the hazardous perch, one can't ignore the beauty that beckons you from that height. A little bell hung in a corner, is rung by the devotees after they tie the cloths on their way up.

Ravi, a young man from Kandy, on holiday with his friends was also making a vow. "We just came on a trip and we are having fun," he said as his friends and he took pictures in turn, close to the Lovers' Leap.

Just over five miles from the Trincomalee town, a branch to the left, off the Anuradhapura Road leads to the seven Hot Springs of Kanniyai. 

A high wall encloses all the seven springs in a rectangular enclosure and each spring, in turn closed off by a small wall forms a well of its own. The water is mildly hot, the temperature varying slightly from one to another.

With several people visiting the place daily, the site has become a public bathing resort. Today, changing rooms and boutiques that sell knick-knacks have come up in the area to cater to the many visitors. 

Today, making a hotel booking in Trinco is not easy. The tourist industry, which collapsed as a result of the war, is now reviving.

Sick dogs and burnt out computers

For only holidaymakers have said village life is more peaceful and restful. Perhaps what they mean is that the pace is slower, or so it seems, as there is no sound of "honking" traffic.

I find myself busier than I was in Colombo, with very little time to myself. What's more, life in Colombo is predictable, but here, in the village, you have to take what the day brings.

There is a holiday this week and my family is visiting. I was looking forward to a nice long chat, but, yesterday it rained and the harvesting of the paddy had to be brought forward to that holiday. That apart, I had to bring deadlines forward to fit in with the holiday. All of which has kept me in a spin. 

Apart from being involved with a women's group trying to cultivate organic vegetables, I speak English with the children and young adults, who think that I have all the time in the world to spare. I have also been asked to keep the congregation in the little village church singing in tune. This I have still to attempt, as the little electric organ, that is the proud possession of the church, has only one octave. You play it on "piano" and it is too low. On "organ" and definitely some of the notes sound too high pitched. I shudder to think of the outcome. So I shall practise till I can sing quite comfortably with that keyboard. (All of a sudden, a vivid recollection of "Maggie" flashes through my mind - remember the cartoon featuring "Jiggs & Maggie"). Perhaps the congregation might increase out of curiosity, just to find out what all the noise is about.

As if I hadn't had enough on my hands, my two canine companions fell ill. A vet had to be found. Finally, someone brought the vet who attends to the livestock in the area. But he seemed so afraid of the animals that I wondered how he chose veterinary science. He didn't waste much time, said their lungs were congested, perhaps due to the change in climate, gave them some antibiotics and fled. I haven't seen him since. 

But the dogs didn't respond to the treatment and were only getting worse. Finally we managed to find another vet. She was more professional and having examined the dogs thoroughly, said they had "tick" fever. One was in remission and the other at a critical stage. So armed with pills and very detailed instructions, I took them home. 

At the moment, back in the village I am craving for a nice chunk of roast pork, which to me now is a delicacy as none of the markets in town stock it - for religious reasons. The only place I can get it is at a farm, again some distance away. So, perish the thought, I will have to wait till I get to Colombo next, to give into my craving.

The last occasion I was in Colombo was to get my CPU repaired. That was another experience.

Waking one day I discovered that my CPU wasn't working. I scoured the town in search of a computer technician or a company that would undertake to look at my CPU. But after much time being spent, and lots of tri-shaw fare, I was only able to locate a person who was so full up, that he could look at my CPU only in another week's time. I gave up.

After several telephone calls to the agent and trying to troubleshoot it myself, I was finally forced to lug it by public transport, aided by another villager, all the way to Colombo. Only to find that it had burned out. My agent being a very customer conscious individual repaired it straightway and we were able to be back at base within 24 hours. It also gave me the opportunity to meet with friends during the evening and talk and laugh. That was truly relaxing!