Behind the Tiger curtain

Sunil Jayatillake in Wanni 

Many of the civilians living in the areas under the control of the LTTE have witnessed stints of peace and have then been caught up in the war and turned into refugees overnight. The mood of the civilians is different this time with the prospects of peace looking better.

Entry to the Tamil rebel controlled areas beyond the last check point maintained by the army at Omathai, is yet to be fully opened for civilians despite announcements that the A9 route was fully opened. At Omanthai civilians travelling from the south have to get LTTE clearance to enter rebel controlled areas.

LTTE representative 'Daya Master', who accompanied us into uncleared areas' said the roads would be fully opened only after peace was established, but did not want to say more.

Many of those travelling from the south assuming they could enter LTTE controlled areas are turned back by the army at the Omanthai check point as the LTTE will not allow entry unless prior permission has been obtained, said Captain Illanga Rajapaksha, the Officer in Charge of the last check point manned by the Sri Lanka Army.

'The badge that students had to buy'

Those wanting to visit the 'uncleared areas have to send the names to the LTTE through the ICRC and depending on the response from the rebels civilians are allowed into the areas controlled by the LTTE. After passing the last point held by the military on the way northwards, the routine checks follow.

At Puliyankulam, nine kilometers away from Omanthai is the main hub from where bus services operate to all parts of the Wanni. 

A shuttle service operates for about nine kilometers . The A-40 Austin Cambridge is the commonest vehicle and costs a passenger Rs. 20 for a ride, though the old car carries at least seven people at a time with goods loaded on the hood. A motorcycle ride is more expensive with Rs. 40 per passenger.

At Puliyankulam bus services to all directions within the Wanni; to Mullaitivu, Kilinochchi, Mallavi, Nedunkerny, Oddusuddan and other areas operate with the average charge being Rs. 1.50 a kilometer. 

It's not only buses that provide transport for passengers, but also old lorries and vans.

Many of the vehicles are packed with goods and brand new bicycles, a direct result of the government lifting the embargo on goods to the uncleared areas.

It is beyond this area that changes are visible with civilians trying to return to their homes. 

The scars of war are seen all over-schools, shops and houses damaged and trees cut down or destroyed.

Civilians are still afraid to get back to their homes or farms as the hidden landmines do not observe the ceasefire.The security forces have been in control of some of these areas since 1999.

"We are scared to get off the main road, leave alone getting back to farming," Thavashi of Kanakarayankulam said.

The villagers keep away from the areas suspected to be mined as there are no warning signs. 

As a result many of the agriculturally productive lands have been left unattended and it may be many years before the mines are cleared and the people get back to farming.

Many of the people have begun putting up new houses closer to the main roads. 

LTTE police station at Mankulam

Residents over the past few weeks have been felling trees and bringing them to put up more permanent structures. Some of them have just come out of refugee camps where they had struggled and survived for many years.

Despite LTTE domination some signs of govt. administration also exists.

The Kanakarayankulam sub post office handles a few hundred letters daily.

Post mistress Agnes Mary tells the story which could be written on the back of a postage stamp. They have had only one postman for the past 13 years and he also is still a casual hand. The post office operates from a cadjan thatched house.

"If there is full government control over the area our services would be made permanent and we could provide a better service to the people," Agnes said.

A labourer working for the Thunukkai Pradeshiya Sabha believes that with the ceasefire agreement the situation will change.

"At the moment we do not get any benefits which other government servants are entitled to. If the situation changes we will get these benefits," he said.

Further into the LTTE controlled areas the cost of goods was still faily high with sugar selling at Rs. 50 a kilo and kerosene at Rs. 50 a bottle.

The LTTE bus stand at Puliyankulam

But prices were much lower than the unbearable levels before the trade embargo was relaxed last month. 

The infrastructures in the areas have not been developed for more than 15 years. The roads remain unmaintained and damaged. Beyond Mankulam the roads are worse.

During the past few weeks of the ceasefire and the free flow of goods, life is a lot better for thousands of civilians. Despite drawbacks and dangers they cherish the hope that this time there will be no turning away from the new highway to peace.

Renaissance - LTTE style

The red and yellow flags and other decorations were part of a week long ceremony organised for what they described as a week of Tamil revivalism.

The emblem on the flag and badges distributed in Vavuniya contained the symbol of the Eelam flag and the colours usually used by the LTTE. The organisers did not want to be photographed, but also insisted they had no hidden agenda other than Tamil culture.

Residents in Vavuniya say they were forced to make cash contributions towards the event. Government servants were told to pay Rs. 300 each, three-wheel drivers Rs. 200 and business establishments Rs. 10,000 each.

Businessmen and government servants told The Sunday Times they found it difficult to pay the money but still did so because of fear.

Some residents asked whether the event was a signal that the LTTE was gradually taking control of activities in Vavuniya as other Tamil groups operating there would be disarmed in line with the ceasefire agreement with the government.

Tamil groups based in Vavuniya, mainly the PLOTE said they were willing to be disarmed, provided their security was guaranteed by the state. However they said they did not wish to join the Sri Lankan army on terms outlined in the ceasefire deal.

The cultural event's organisers including a former AGA told The Sunday Times their aim was to educate the young generation in the area about Tamil culture. "During the past 20 years the culture had been destroyed due to the war and our aim now is to educate school children," the ex-AGA said.

Many of the school children were seen wearing badges which they had to buy at Rs. five each from the organisers.

Outlining the decadence the ex AGA said there were at least 100 video parlours in Vavuniya town alone and most of them were screening 'Blue Films' to which children were getting addicted.