From
Arugam bay to the pristine beaches of Panama
Sleepy
lagoons,sand dunes
Story and pictures by Kishanie S. Fernando
It took almost eleven hours from Colombo to Pottuvil on the narrow
and winding A4 road along the south east coastline of Sri Lanka.
There were four
of us; my husband and two of our friends. So far it had been a eventful
day. We had watched the antics of a herd of elephants at the Lahugala
sanctuary and had stopped to wonder at the historic ruins of the
Magul Maha Vihara complex.
Muhudu
Maha Viharaya at Pottuvil
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As we were approaching
Pottuvil, the narrow road cut through acres of luxuriously green
paddy fields. A milk white dagoba stood out over the fields framed
by coconut and palmyrah trees. At the point at which we turned south
towards Arugam bay was a small Catholic church dedicated to St.
Anthony.
Our destination
was Arugam Bay, a further 2.5kms south of Pottuvil.
We crossed the
bridge over the wide lagoon of Arugam Kalapu. The roadside was dotted
with hotels, guest houses, restaurants and may have resembled the
southern beach line in its early days before tourism became an industry
at the cost of the environment and the village culture.
Arugam bay is
known as one of the best surf points in the world, popular for its
challenging breaker laden waves. It may be one of the only unspoilt
beaches in Sri Lanka.
Arugam bay consists
of three small villages where fishing and farming are the main occupations.
Ullae is a fishing village situated at the corner of the bay with
a natural harbour. It consists mostly of a Tamil population. There
are a few Sinhalese families as well and the village boasts of both
a Sinhalese and a Tamil school. Perie Ullae consists mostly of a
Muslim population and has a sub post office, a mosque and a Muslim
school. Sinna Ullae also consists mostly of Muslims and has a mosque
and a Muslim school.
We booked into
our hotel by the beach which offered us spotlessly clean private
cabanas with thatched illuk grass roofs. Our Danish hosts welcomed
us warmly. (Their homemade ice cream was out of this world) The
thundering of the waves could be heard just outside our doors, which
drove us to the sea and to a somewhat awkward sea bath, since the
breakers show no mercy to amateurs, and we ended up with more sand
on us than water.
We decided to
spend the rest of the evening sipping cool beer and relaxing in
one of the thatched beach huts by the sea. It was a picture perfect
evening.
At the far end
of the Pottuvil side of the bay, a brilliant rainbow dipped into
the sea and then slowly dissolved into nothingness We sat late into
the night making small talk and just listening to the roar of the
mighty ocean, feeling the wind playing on our hair and watching
a million stars begin to twinkle right over our heads and even a
few shooting stars for a wish.
At night many
fishermen appear from the villages with their lamps and wade into
the lagoon to catch prawns. We walked closer to watch them and it
was interesting to see them artfully throwing nets, which dazzled
like silver dust in the darkness catching the light of their lamps
before disappearing into the water. Once the nets were gathered,
the prawns were emptied into holes dug in the sand on the shore.
Each fisherman had a separate hole and kept his catch in it. Nobody
spoke, the only noise was the lapping of the water at their feet,
and the swirling of their nets. It was a brisk, serious business
of throwing, gathering, emptying their catch and again throwing,
gathering and emptying.
The next morning
we went in search of the little known Mudu Maha Vihara excavated
on the sea coast of Pottuvil. With no sign boards, we had difficulty
in finding our way and a friendly young man, whom we learned was
a school teacher, volunteered to take us to the site. Amongst massive
sand dunes lies the evidence of a lost civilization.
It is said that
this is the place where Queen Vihara Maha Devi and her entourage
were washed ashore and not at Kirinda. A brick boundary wall of
an image house with many stone pillars included a well preserved
statue of a Buddha and two Bodhisattva figures can be seen here.
Our new friend
explained to us that the remains of many more ruins could be found
under the sand dunes. He also showed us around the dunes and explained
to us the various plant life. We were surprised at the healthy growth
of the many stunted "Kohomba" trees. They were so green
in contrast to the buff dunes. Climbing up and down the sand dunes
was fun and it was possible due to the rain that had wet the sand
and made a hard surface under our feet. The afternoon came to an
end with our new friend inviting us to his home for lunch which
unfortunately we could not accept due to other plans.
Another place
of pristine beauty was the Panama beach which we decided to visit
during the evening. The road leading about 17kms to Panama was itself
full of contrasts. Flat green paddy lands, small rocky outcrops
and shrub lands - a bird watchers' paradise, marsh and beru grass
fields and chena lands blended into each other. At one point we
stopped to watch an unusual game of several crows giving chase to
two eagles soaring high in the sky and from time to time dipping
down as if to bully the poor crows. At another point we stopped
to watch an elephant feasting on a meal of beru grass.
The motor road
ends at the busy little village of Panama. A gravel road leads on
to the beach passing a graveyard where most of the young soldiers
who died in the war were buried. We stopped awhile to read the names,
dates of birth and death of these young heroes, children of this
humble village who had sustained the war efforts and the safety
of millions who would never know to thank them.
The Panama beach
itself was a paradise on earth. The sand dunes stretching along
the beach made us stop our jeep and walk a short distance to the
turquoise sea beach which stretched endlessly without a single sign
of habitation. A typical Robinson Crusoe atmosphere. The pink rocks
of Panama stood out at the far end of the beach. The evening sunlight
made them glow pinker. Here too were monkeys running up and down.
The beach was
covered with exquisite marine plant life. It suddenly dawned on
us that this may be one of the only beaches left untouched by civilization
and pollution. We were mindful not to tread on the plants or drive
over them in our jeep. This beach with its abundant plant life must
be saved for people to see and admire. It should not meet the fate
of the Nilaveli or Passikudah.
We remembered
the native American saying, "We did not inherit the earth from
our parents, we are borrowing it from our children!"
Suddenly, much
to our surprise, the sky darkened quickly. We could not see our
jeep. Yes, we were lost amongst the sand dunes in pitch darkness,
but yet it was so hauntingly beautiful.
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