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Big battle to save Kotte's ruins
These walls are all that remain of the once magnificent Kotte kingdom. They once withstood invasions of a different kind. Now they battle urbanisation.
By Hiranthi Fernando
Kotte, known as Sri Jayewardenepura, was the seventh capital city of ancient Sri Lanka. Used as a capital for 150 - 200 years, it was the seat of the last king who ruled the entire country. Although this period was referred to as the Golden Era on account of its highly developed socio-economic and cultural standards, there is unfortunately very little visible remnants of its architectural heritage. Now the Archaeological Department together with the Urban Development Authority is making attempts to preserve the little that is left.

Part of the fortress wall

"The Kotte period lasted from 1400 to about 1597," explains Mr. A. E. L. Tillekewardene of the Archaeological Department. It was first used as a fortress and then as the capital. The fortress city was initially built to resist invasions from the north, by minister Alakeswara, appointed by the King of Gampola. The potential of the natural geographical surroundings of the Diyawanna Oya, marshlands and forests, was recognized and utilised to the full, transforming Kotte into a fortress city, surrounded by water.

According to the Journal of the Ceylon Branch of the Royal Asiatic Society (JCBRAS), in the beginning there was only a fortress, which served as a safe place. But when Alakeswara consulted Ven. Vidagama at a later period for his crown, the priest told him, "A great capital should be built to hold so great a king, and till then he should not be crowned." Hence, during the three years of his dictatorship, to fulfil the condition and get the chief priest to perform the rite, Alakeswara added to and improved his city of Kotte, converting it from a fortress into a magnificent capital with stone baths and cisterns, spacious streets and fine edifices.

Ruins of the Alakeswara palace Pix by Athula Devapriya

Parakramabahu VI was the most important monarch of Kotte. During his time, Ceylon was reunited as one kingdom with the capital at Kotte.

Stability was the main reason for Kotte to develop as it did culturally and economically. The king being a poet himself, encouraged arts and culture. Several religious buildings were constructed as well as five educational pirivenas.

The later capitals such as Kotte remained centres of population unlike the more ancient cities like Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa, where archaeological sites were protected by the surrounding jungle. Thus much of what remained of the old city of Kotte was obliterated by urbanisation. With the moving of the parliament to Kotte, the value of land also rose, resulting in more new constructions over the old sites. Also the construction during the Kotte period is found to be largely of kabook or laterite found in the area, and wood, and less of stone which is more long lasting.

The ambalama constructed during the British period

Mr. Tillekewardene explained that archaeological research and contemporary literature have indicated what the city of Kotte was once. It has been established that a fortified wall surrounded the city. Inner and outer moats were built only on the south side. According to Antiquities of the Kingdom of Kotte, the lower end of the ramparts reveal that its construction was on two tiers. Look out towers were also there. A terrace, 10 feet in width runs between the two embankments, which is a rampart walk, intended for sentinels on guard duty. "The city was adequately protected on the north, west and east by the Diyawanna Oya, its treacherous marshes teeming with alligators. The ramparts and inner moat were constructed to link up with the Diyawanna Oya and protected the vulnerable south side of the city." Six entrances to the city are mentioned.

Today, some portions of the fortress wall can be seen. On the south side, deep ditches which had been the moats are also visible. The area bounded by the fortress and inner moat is now Ethul Kotte. The area between the inner moat and outer moat is Pita-Kotte. The wall has been declared a protected monument and there is a building reservation within 10 feet outside the wall and five feet inside the wall. However, Mr. Tillekewardene explained that some of the lands are privately owned and there are difficulties in implementing the Archaeology Act. The Archeology Department clears portions of the wall, depending on the availability of funds. To clear the wall completely, some buildings need to be relocated.

In the meantime, the UDA has started a survey to identify the properties which obstruct the wall. The two moats have been gazetted as Archaeological Reserves. No construction is permitted in these areas.

The only monument existing in a fairly good condition is Veherakanda at Beddegana, where ruins of two stupas have been excavated in 1949. Veherakanda was declared an archaeological reserve in 1948. The Archaeological Department plans to make it an exhibition site.

Another archaeological reservation is the Alakeswara tomb or palace. Recent research shows that there had been several buildings and these were likely to have been the palace, that he built in order to get the crown. This site is said to be the highest spot in Kotte. According to JCBRAS, "Here also stands, or rather stood till recently, the granite coronation platform of the kings of Kotte, overlooking the tank, where Alakeswara was assassinated." Not much remains of the buildings.

The only other visible archaeological site in the area is the ambalama, which stands by the main road. Research has established this structure to have been erected in the late 19th century, during the British period. With the road widening, it is planned to conserve the building by moving it seven feet back. According to an official of the UDA, preservation of ruins is difficult in well populated areas like Kotte, unless the Rampart project is combined with another environmental project so that it can be fitted into the modern city trends.


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