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Those were the days, my friend
(Continued from Plus cover last week)
Back to Ceylon
About March 1940 I applied to the war office to join up - and on hearing I was gazzetted into the Ceylon Volunteer Defence Force I was told to go back there. We joined the Strathmore overland at Marseilles, having passed through Lyons 4 days before it was bombed.

The last merchant ship to go through Suez, we heard of the fall of Dunkirk as we left the Red Sea for the Indian Ocean. On our arrival back in Ceylon I was to hear of an incident which had happened during my leave in England. An Australian troop carrier had called in at Colombo en route for the Middle East war. Apparently a very drunken trooper off the ship, speaking with an impeccable English accent had searched Colombo for a fellow called Bill Atkinson.

He gave his name as Ronald Holding, my old cobber. I did hear of him again but I never saw him. We had met in the killing pen of an abattoir in Melbourne, gold mined in Victoria and fruit picked in Mildura together.

Subsequent efforts to join contingents being drafted from the Ceylon Defence Force overseas finally succeeded in August 1940 when I was put in charge of 25 young, mad, wild tea planters and told to herd them 2000 miles to an officers' training establishment for the India Army south of Bombay. By guess and by God we got there. I remember one incident leaving Bangalore late one night by train. I had counted only 24 of my 25 chicks. The Station Master, the guard and I were having a battle delaying another 10 minutes for my lost one. Eventually I had to give the OK to go and out we steamed.

I was in turmoil wondering how I could explain one prospective Indian Army officer missing, believed drunk, somewhere in India. I was in a carriage with half a dozen others pondering this problem about 10 minutes out of Bangalore when a face put its head through the carriage window with the remark "I hope you did not miss me".

He had got under the train and onto the off-side running board until he thought the time was ripe to put in an appearance. Little did he know it then but it was to be the aftermath of a train journey that would cost him his life.

He joined the 2nd Bn. of my own regiment 4th Gurkha Rifles, taken prisoner in the Middle East and sent up through Italy by train. During the journey, being small, he offered to squeeze through a lifted floor board in the truck, crawl out, remove the lock and open the truck door. They all escaped but he died of pneumonia getting over the Alps. A very brave man. His story is recorded by Rex Woods in "Special Commando" 1985 (Kimber).

A couple of breaks
I joined my battalion in the Punjab and later we were brigaded into a Gurkha War Brigade for Rangoon. I had to send my wife home at this point and was able to get her a passage out of Colombo. During 1942/43 in UK she drove an ambulance part time, helped make bomb releases for Lancaster bombers and worked behind the desk at the officers club in Piccadilly. There she kept a few hens on the roof and supplied the occasional egg as a treat to preferably a junior overnighter before he had to rejoin his regiment. My war was not exciting. Just at the point I had landed the job of Brigade Intelligence Officer, which I really hankered after, I was posted away because of some particular intelligence asset I was supposed to have.

This went on all through the war until I finally ended up as part of the organization which you might have read about in a book recently published after a 30 year interdict called the "Ultra Secret". I was in the Japanese Intelligence Section.

The fact that our unit consisting of 12 naval, 6 R.A.F. and 2 Army officers was leavened by 400 WRNS did alleviate some of the ordinary tasks. At the end of 1943 my wife did get out again from England on a special job, and we met up in New Delhi. We had a wonderful 3 weeks leave in Kashmir, notable for our listening to the Broadcast of the Invasion of Europe on a houseboat but marred by another miscarriage for my wife. Later in Colombo she worked for an Intelligence section with others under a Col: Airey; they were known as 'Airey's fairies'.

When a Col: Russell took over, the nickname changed to 'Russell's Vipers'.And so after 4 years of war we got back to Colombo to pick up the threads of civilian life. I told my employers I couldn't stick going back to the tea estate agency side of mercantile business in Colombo and to my pleasant shock they offered me the job as their shipping agent, Orient Line, Glen Line, American President, Ocean Steam Pacific and many others. So now I became a shipping agent. I enjoyed this and it did have many interesting and some bizarre sides. I will quote two incidents which remain outstanding in my mind. Sometime in March 1918 the three-weekly Orient Liner had left Aden outward bound and cabled its requirements for oil, water and stores ahead to me. At the end of the cable was a terse sentence "Have homicidal maniac on board stop presently under straitjacket stop arrange removal Colombo". The other one was a wireless message from a tramp, which had been wandering round the oceans wondering whether the war had ended, to the effect that he had a murder to report. On my going on board in harbour the captain told me the murderer had jumped overboard and so I felt my obligation was at an end. Oh no - the captain had the evidence. When I looked puzzled he led me below decks to a vastly bolted door which turned out to be the ship's freezer. Inside was the murdered corpse, in ice, knife and all.

An amusing incident in shipping days is worth recalling. I was seeing off an Orient liner at midnight. "All visitors ashore" had rung out in 2 LO accent from the brightly lit deck for the last time. An orchid button holed, impeccably silk suited lothario, tripped down the gangway and turning to wave good bye to the purserette stepped out - into the water. A passing Danish launch hooked him out. Walking up the jetty, water pouring off him, the customs officer remarked "I see your friend has fallen into the harbour", to which the Dane replied "Certainly not. My friend sweats in the tropics." About mid 1950 I had been working some 16 years with the same employers, Whitehall and Co. and began to get restive about my future. These big firms were inclined to be very conservative in their statements and, although I new they wanted me to stay, their inability to make me a concrete offer extending eventually to the top of the pyramid persuaded me to accept an offer of partnership with men of my own age in taking over a big import export business, Hayley and Kenny, elsewhere in Colombo. For four years thereafter I was the desiccated coconut king of Colombo, on the telephone to London everyday and shipping vast quantities of this household commodity all over the world. However, shortly my life was to change dramatically.

Having a ball
During this time in 1953, the new Queen Elizabeth and Prince Philip made their world tour and we attended the ball and reception at Government House. The men were all in white ties and decorations and their partners in the most beautiful creations, my wife's roll of cream damask satin was sent out by her mother. The local tailor won the job by "I know the size of the lady's bottom". Long white gloves were at a premium just then. The setting of Government House garden lawns leading down to the sea, trees of vast size fire pointed by thousands of coloured bulbs, was truly a setting for Cinderella.

The Queen had taken the open air dance floor with Prince Philip to start the ball rolling and returned to her dais when the skies opened in torrents of rain.

A quick word in the band leader Tony Felice's ear and the whole vast concourse joined in that happy tune, which dates so many of us, "Singing in the Rain" and our future Queen put her head back and laughed in sheer delight. They were happy carefree days, during which time my wife had been elected the only European vice-president of the 80 Club in Colombo. The PM John Kotelawala was then president. She had also been asked by 43 Grouper Harry Pieris to sit for a portrait in evening dress - a photo of which appeared in a Colombo newspaper at his death as his favourite painting. Further she was elected Hon.Sec: of the Red Cross. An extended article about her appeared in 'Ceylon Causerie' in May 1958 by A.E. Bartholemeusz. Some years prior to this Ceylon had obtained its political independence and the effects began to show in the early 50's. All companies had to cut down on European, as all whites were called, employees in favour of a leavening of Ceylonese. It was thought I had as much chance as any to get another job and so I was again on the cart road. I was not too worried at first as I had several tentative offers.

However for one reason or another all fell through. By August1953 we were desperate and I had promised my wife that I would give her a final answer as to our packing up, weaving and going to Canada by end of September.

Fortune smiles
Unknown to us at the time Providence was again taking a hand in our future - this time, and please don't be too incredulous - in the shape of a fortune teller "You may know that such prognostications form a great part in the lives of Easterners. I was persuaded much against my training and upbringing to consult such a seer much used by a great Ceylonese friend of ours, Dr. P.R. Thiagarajah, FRCS, FRCP. MRCOG. The seer took my hour and place of birth - which don't forget was a map reference in mid-west Canada, Sec:25Tp.22.Rge.23 West 2nd SASK., of which continent he would've been unlikely to have heard. A week later, speaking only in Tamil, he had no English, this little man sat cross-legged on the floor of our friend's westernized drawing room and told me that I was going through a very bad patch - I was going to experience worse BUT by my birthday September 28, I would be set up in a far better job than I ever had before and I would be back again surrounded by tea. This of course was preposterous as I had left tea in 1939 and I told him so. He spread his hands as if to say "the future is there - I see it' . There followed some really bad weeks and then on September 27, our Ceylonese friend asked us round for a pre-birthday party in the evening and inquired how prospects were showing up. I told him NIL. He then sent for his little fortune teller and berated him as only an Easterner can for deceiving his great friend in this way.

To our amazement the little man merely laughed in our faces and said "It is not September 28, yet". You can imagine our disbelief when only a few hours had yet to go. The next morning I went to my old office to clear up my things when the telephone rang. "Is that you Bill?" a voice I didn't know asked, "If it's convenient will you come round at about ll am, we'd like to have a talk". My mind in a turmoil I reported round. The upshot was that this large firm of wide interests had just received a cable from England to say a key man who ran two companies up country in the tea area, one a large transport company and the other, the only bank in the hills, could not return to the East as his daughter was very seriously ill. As I had such a wide knowledge of, and acquaintance with, the upcountry tea planters they were offering me the post as director of these two companies; could I join them in early December? I took a deep breath, said a little prayer of thanksgiving and said "Yes". I tore home to my wife, who was by this time very nearly at the end of her tether with the prospect of packing up for Canada, and said "Take a deep breath and just think of any place you would like to go, anywhere in the world, for a two months holiday". Within a week we were on board a French liner enroute for Singapore, Saigon, Manila, Hong Kong and Japan. What a holiday that was. But to revert to the insignificant little fortune teller. How did he know?
There is one very certain outcome - I have never and will never have my future told again. Something or someone somewhere knows things which I feel are hidden from us for very good reasons.

Way up on a mountain
I took up my new duties in December 1953 way up in the hills in a lovely bungalow, Dumburugiri, planter friends had their rude name for it, provided for us on a tea estate with Adam's Peak, Ceylon's Sacred Mountain,which we could see straight out of our sitting room windows. One company had forty three-ton lorries, half a hundred drivers and a foreman, which were used to bring tea in from the estates to the rail head 140 miles from Colombo.In the early 1950's Government plans to create the Castlereagh dam came to me at the visit of a Frenchman from Someport Transport Co. He needed somehow to transport 200 x 20 foot pipes each weighing 5 tons and 5 feet in diameter from the railhead in Hatton to 16 miles away, the chosen site. I got my carpenter baas to construct a carrier trailer to haul these monsters behind a stripped down lorry. The first pipe was 25 feet long and curved. I have photos of the loading. With so many road turns on the journey I noticed the forward binding had eased dangerously close to slipping off. Stopping the lorry at the top I showed this to my driver. "I fix, master" and he got into the cab, drove down the hill at 20 mph and slammed on the brakes. The pipe shot forward. He got out, -"I good driver, master". I could have cried at such loyalty which could have killed him. Sometime later I was delighted to relieve most of my staff from compound debt interest from a money lender whom I took to court. Learned he was one of my own drivers and I sacked him unceremoniously. The other company was the bank used to provide the cash for estates to pay their labour force every month. I was the only European.

I loved these two jobs and a measure of the success I experienced can be calculated in that when I arrived I was personally bringing up from Colombo by station wagon, the equivalent of £500,000, per year in rupees in monthly trips and after one year I had increased this to £5,000,000 per year. I liked the planters and they apparently liked me. During these excursions to collect money my only protection against bandits was a loaded .38 revolver, incidentally - unlicensed. I collected monthly from the Central Bank Colombo.

The insurers Lloyds insisted I drove the car and had two armed police in the back who, on the D.I.G.'s orders had no bullet up the spout. There was always an inquisitive crowd watching, so I had a routine.

Taking out my .38 from the car pocket I stood up in full view, broke the barrel and inserted six rounds slowly, smiled at the onlookers, put the revolver in my lap and drove off up the only road to Hatton, Ginigathena Pass.

The only incidents which happened in five years were a front wheel of the car sheering straight off on one trip landing me in the road bank instead of a long drop. Secondly, on looking out of the Bank's first floor window to see who had come to collect estate cash a 12 bore went up in front of my face. On my remonstration three-ply came "sorry, old man, I did not know it was loaded"; slightly casual I thought in the circumstances.

Forages into the wild
At this time my wife and I spent many holidays with friends camping in the jungle and we had many fascinating trips, and some dangerous times. As when we had a brush with a full grown and inquisitive leopard which elected to investigate our little overnight rock shelter by putting its paws on the 4 ft wall and gazing down on us, its pricked ears and round mask outlined against the night sky. Again a chance encounter with a rogue elephant 30 yards away which had started to roll up its trunk preparatory to charging. Or when a lone buffalo with 3 foot horns came pounding across an open plain at our small party consisting of a tracker, my wife, a friend and myself. The leopard and buffalo incidents are recounted in the journal "Best of Loris" by Hoffman.

But on one occasion a block of ice slid slowly down my back when out with a tracker sitting over a water hole in the stillness of a tropical night. In the distance I heard one shot and I knew the only other firearm within some miles was the revolver I had left with my wife in camp for protection. It is worthy of remark to say that the distant shot had been fired by Michael Muller who had operated on both my feet in London in 1948. He passed us by when we were picnicking on the way out. However I am still alive and so you see all these incidents, including when my wife was bitten by one of the most poisonous snakes in Ceylon, did not impede our progress into a fairly ripe old age. My wife died in July 1993 in the U.K.

By 1958 I was at the top of my tree and I was getting restive again. I answered an advertisement in the Times Agony column and struck up correspondence with a man advertising for capital in a restaurant enterprise in England. After some months I flew home. I was met at London airport by a self-drive car with instructions to come down to Newbury.

There I was regally entertained in a beautiful country house by my prospective partner, a man of some 70 years. To cut a long story short I went in with him and the three restaurants he had in England. Back I went, handed in my resignation to my firm in Ceylon on August 4, 1958. My wife then had the job of packing up and leaving the East for good. On August 6, two days later, I received a cable from London. My new partner had died. This was an awful blow but couldn't change plans and I had the confidence that success in the East must bring an equivalent measure of success among the wide boys of London.

How terribly wrong can one be; in this instance pride came before the most colossal fall.We left Ceylon with many tugging of heart strings and after 25 years and against the advice of many old friends.

The end of an era
Those wonderful carefree days were over. Often at weekends we used to stay with dear friends who had a lovely palm leaved hut on a spit of land dividing a large river estuary; on one side and sea breakers rolling in from the sea on the other, down at Bentota before the advent of multi-storey hotels. Our host was the brother of 'Stinker' Murdoch of 'Much Binding in the Marsh' fame. Our days were spent mostly in the water, either in the river where we could knock oysters off the landing jetty pilings, or surfing in the sea 50 yards across the spit. On the beach, turtles dug holes by night to lay innumerable eggs. Our erstwhile host has since died, but his widow, now re-married, visited us here in Devon in 1977 when she reminded me that I used to write her doggerel poems as thankyous for our lovely weekends and said "Do you write any now?" This set me on my mettle and the next day driving down to the Axminster Library, my mind toyed with an idea which came out as follows

-entitled"Et in Arcadia ego..." 'To Marjorie who twisted my arm'
1 That sandy lea, a boon to me
With sun and sea, was so to thee.
2 Ferry chugging, water lapping,
Palm trees bending, cadjan matting.
3 Cool oases, zephyr breezes,
Lemon squeezes, tension eases.
4 'Famished - hurry', barefoot scurry,
Appu's curry, sated worry.
5 Golden sunsets, gilding fishnets,
Hallowed moments, sensing regrets.
6 Voices muted, strange tales bruited,
Laughter fluted, friendships rooted.
7 Decades pass; memory's haze
cannot erase

how green the grass.
'By the foregoing I am reminded of an earlier effort in rhyme I sent to great friend Noel Gratiaen who had been awarded Q.C. He weighed about 20 stone and was reputed to prefer gin by the bottle rather than the glass. I wrote,

"The pundits of the club bar who claimed unique rapacity
for juniper akin to mother's pap,

Omitted to include the bacchanalian capacity of Gratiaen, Noel Q.C., - verbus sap;
But hoary reminiscence undistinguished for its brevity, peculiar to the planter far and wide,

Never fails to grant the laurel for pure alcoholic levity, to that master of all the Bacchus tribe.

And now Her Royal Highness with a gracious magnanimity honour Noel's superb rhetoric skill.

Has deigned to claim his counsel in a bond of close affini overflowing to the brim his cup to fill. Far be from us to ponder, in our realms of mediocrity.the Olympian sights above our puny roof -

To emulate his glory needs but supreme avidity for quantities of gin one hundred proof."

His reply from chambers in London read "Dear Bill, many thanks. I happened to have a cup of tea with Her Majesty recently and she by chance remarked she was getting a little tired of her Poet Laureate.

Did I know of anyone? I feel sure you willl receive a missive shortly from Royal quarters."

In conclusion we were so fortunate during those wonderful years and learned the courtesy of your great friendship. Thank you.

Next week: Nicki Upton- born in Colombo 1935


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