Those
were the days, my friend
(Continued
from Plus cover last week)
Back to Ceylon
About March 1940 I applied to the war office to join up - and
on hearing I was gazzetted into the Ceylon Volunteer Defence Force
I was told to go back there. We joined the Strathmore overland at
Marseilles, having passed through Lyons 4 days before it was bombed.
The last merchant
ship to go through Suez, we heard of the fall of Dunkirk as we left
the Red Sea for the Indian Ocean. On our arrival back in Ceylon
I was to hear of an incident which had happened during my leave
in England. An Australian troop carrier had called in at Colombo
en route for the Middle East war. Apparently a very drunken trooper
off the ship, speaking with an impeccable English accent had searched
Colombo for a fellow called Bill Atkinson.
He gave his
name as Ronald Holding, my old cobber. I did hear of him again but
I never saw him. We had met in the killing pen of an abattoir in
Melbourne, gold mined in Victoria and fruit picked in Mildura together.
Subsequent
efforts to join contingents being drafted from the Ceylon Defence
Force overseas finally succeeded in August 1940 when I was put in
charge of 25 young, mad, wild tea planters and told to herd them
2000 miles to an officers' training establishment for the India
Army south of Bombay. By guess and by God we got there. I remember
one incident leaving Bangalore late one night by train. I had counted
only 24 of my 25 chicks. The Station Master, the guard and I were
having a battle delaying another 10 minutes for my lost one. Eventually
I had to give the OK to go and out we steamed.
I was in turmoil
wondering how I could explain one prospective Indian Army officer
missing, believed drunk, somewhere in India. I was in a carriage
with half a dozen others pondering this problem about 10 minutes
out of Bangalore when a face put its head through the carriage window
with the remark "I hope you did not miss me".
He had got under
the train and onto the off-side running board until he thought the
time was ripe to put in an appearance. Little did he know it then
but it was to be the aftermath of a train journey that would cost
him his life.
He joined the
2nd Bn. of my own regiment 4th Gurkha Rifles, taken prisoner in
the Middle East and sent up through Italy by train. During the journey,
being small, he offered to squeeze through a lifted floor board
in the truck, crawl out, remove the lock and open the truck door.
They all escaped but he died of pneumonia getting over the Alps.
A very brave man. His story is recorded by Rex Woods in "Special
Commando" 1985 (Kimber).
A couple
of breaks
I joined my battalion in the Punjab and later we were brigaded
into a Gurkha War Brigade for Rangoon. I had to send my wife home
at this point and was able to get her a passage out of Colombo.
During 1942/43 in UK she drove an ambulance part time, helped make
bomb releases for Lancaster bombers and worked behind the desk at
the officers club in Piccadilly. There she kept a few hens on the
roof and supplied the occasional egg as a treat to preferably a
junior overnighter before he had to rejoin his regiment. My war
was not exciting. Just at the point I had landed the job of Brigade
Intelligence Officer, which I really hankered after, I was posted
away because of some particular intelligence asset I was supposed
to have.
This went on
all through the war until I finally ended up as part of the organization
which you might have read about in a book recently published after
a 30 year interdict called the "Ultra Secret". I was in
the Japanese Intelligence Section.
The fact that
our unit consisting of 12 naval, 6 R.A.F. and 2 Army officers was
leavened by 400 WRNS did alleviate some of the ordinary tasks. At
the end of 1943 my wife did get out again from England on a special
job, and we met up in New Delhi. We had a wonderful 3 weeks leave
in Kashmir, notable for our listening to the Broadcast of the Invasion
of Europe on a houseboat but marred by another miscarriage for my
wife. Later in Colombo she worked for an Intelligence section with
others under a Col: Airey; they were known as 'Airey's fairies'.
When a Col:
Russell took over, the nickname changed to 'Russell's Vipers'.And
so after 4 years of war we got back to Colombo to pick up the threads
of civilian life. I told my employers I couldn't stick going back
to the tea estate agency side of mercantile business in Colombo
and to my pleasant shock they offered me the job as their shipping
agent, Orient Line, Glen Line, American President, Ocean Steam Pacific
and many others. So now I became a shipping agent. I enjoyed this
and it did have many interesting and some bizarre sides. I will
quote two incidents which remain outstanding in my mind. Sometime
in March 1918 the three-weekly Orient Liner had left Aden outward
bound and cabled its requirements for oil, water and stores ahead
to me. At the end of the cable was a terse sentence "Have homicidal
maniac on board stop presently under straitjacket stop arrange removal
Colombo". The other one was a wireless message from a tramp,
which had been wandering round the oceans wondering whether the
war had ended, to the effect that he had a murder to report. On
my going on board in harbour the captain told me the murderer had
jumped overboard and so I felt my obligation was at an end. Oh no
- the captain had the evidence. When I looked puzzled he led me
below decks to a vastly bolted door which turned out to be the ship's
freezer. Inside was the murdered corpse, in ice, knife and all.
An amusing incident
in shipping days is worth recalling. I was seeing off an Orient
liner at midnight. "All visitors ashore" had rung out
in 2 LO accent from the brightly lit deck for the last time. An
orchid button holed, impeccably silk suited lothario, tripped down
the gangway and turning to wave good bye to the purserette stepped
out - into the water. A passing Danish launch hooked him out. Walking
up the jetty, water pouring off him, the customs officer remarked
"I see your friend has fallen into the harbour", to which
the Dane replied "Certainly not. My friend sweats in the tropics."
About mid 1950 I had been working some 16 years with the same employers,
Whitehall and Co. and began to get restive about my future. These
big firms were inclined to be very conservative in their statements
and, although I new they wanted me to stay, their inability to make
me a concrete offer extending eventually to the top of the pyramid
persuaded me to accept an offer of partnership with men of my own
age in taking over a big import export business, Hayley and Kenny,
elsewhere in Colombo. For four years thereafter I was the desiccated
coconut king of Colombo, on the telephone to London everyday and
shipping vast quantities of this household commodity all over the
world. However, shortly my life was to change dramatically.
Having a
ball
During this time in 1953, the new Queen Elizabeth and Prince
Philip made their world tour and we attended the ball and reception
at Government House. The men were all in white ties and decorations
and their partners in the most beautiful creations, my wife's roll
of cream damask satin was sent out by her mother. The local tailor
won the job by "I know the size of the lady's bottom".
Long white gloves were at a premium just then. The setting of Government
House garden lawns leading down to the sea, trees of vast size fire
pointed by thousands of coloured bulbs, was truly a setting for
Cinderella.
The Queen had
taken the open air dance floor with Prince Philip to start the ball
rolling and returned to her dais when the skies opened in torrents
of rain.
A quick word
in the band leader Tony Felice's ear and the whole vast concourse
joined in that happy tune, which dates so many of us, "Singing
in the Rain" and our future Queen put her head back and laughed
in sheer delight. They were happy carefree days, during which time
my wife had been elected the only European vice-president of the
80 Club in Colombo. The PM John Kotelawala was then president. She
had also been asked by 43 Grouper Harry Pieris to sit for a portrait
in evening dress - a photo of which appeared in a Colombo newspaper
at his death as his favourite painting. Further she was elected
Hon.Sec: of the Red Cross. An extended article about her appeared
in 'Ceylon Causerie' in May 1958 by A.E. Bartholemeusz. Some years
prior to this Ceylon had obtained its political independence and
the effects began to show in the early 50's. All companies had to
cut down on European, as all whites were called, employees in favour
of a leavening of Ceylonese. It was thought I had as much chance
as any to get another job and so I was again on the cart road. I
was not too worried at first as I had several tentative offers.
However for
one reason or another all fell through. By August1953 we were desperate
and I had promised my wife that I would give her a final answer
as to our packing up, weaving and going to Canada by end of September.
Fortune
smiles
Unknown to us at the time Providence was again taking a hand
in our future - this time, and please don't be too incredulous -
in the shape of a fortune teller "You may know that such prognostications
form a great part in the lives of Easterners. I was persuaded much
against my training and upbringing to consult such a seer much used
by a great Ceylonese friend of ours, Dr. P.R. Thiagarajah, FRCS,
FRCP. MRCOG. The seer took my hour and place of birth - which don't
forget was a map reference in mid-west Canada, Sec:25Tp.22.Rge.23
West 2nd SASK., of which continent he would've been unlikely to
have heard. A week later, speaking only in Tamil, he had no English,
this little man sat cross-legged on the floor of our friend's westernized
drawing room and told me that I was going through a very bad patch
- I was going to experience worse BUT by my birthday September 28,
I would be set up in a far better job than I ever had before and
I would be back again surrounded by tea. This of course was preposterous
as I had left tea in 1939 and I told him so. He spread his hands
as if to say "the future is there - I see it' . There followed
some really bad weeks and then on September 27, our Ceylonese friend
asked us round for a pre-birthday party in the evening and inquired
how prospects were showing up. I told him NIL. He then sent for
his little fortune teller and berated him as only an Easterner can
for deceiving his great friend in this way.
To our amazement
the little man merely laughed in our faces and said "It is
not September 28, yet". You can imagine our disbelief when
only a few hours had yet to go. The next morning I went to my old
office to clear up my things when the telephone rang. "Is that
you Bill?" a voice I didn't know asked, "If it's convenient
will you come round at about ll am, we'd like to have a talk".
My mind in a turmoil I reported round. The upshot was that this
large firm of wide interests had just received a cable from England
to say a key man who ran two companies up country in the tea area,
one a large transport company and the other, the only bank in the
hills, could not return to the East as his daughter was very seriously
ill. As I had such a wide knowledge of, and acquaintance with, the
upcountry tea planters they were offering me the post as director
of these two companies; could I join them in early December? I took
a deep breath, said a little prayer of thanksgiving and said "Yes".
I tore home to my wife, who was by this time very nearly at the
end of her tether with the prospect of packing up for Canada, and
said "Take a deep breath and just think of any place you would
like to go, anywhere in the world, for a two months holiday".
Within a week we were on board a French liner enroute for Singapore,
Saigon, Manila, Hong Kong and Japan. What a holiday that was. But
to revert to the insignificant little fortune teller. How did he
know?
There is one very certain outcome - I have never and will never
have my future told again. Something or someone somewhere knows
things which I feel are hidden from us for very good reasons.
Way up on
a mountain
I took up my new duties in December 1953 way up in the hills
in a lovely bungalow, Dumburugiri, planter friends had their rude
name for it, provided for us on a tea estate with Adam's Peak, Ceylon's
Sacred Mountain,which we could see straight out of our sitting room
windows. One company had forty three-ton lorries, half a hundred
drivers and a foreman, which were used to bring tea in from the
estates to the rail head 140 miles from Colombo.In the early 1950's
Government plans to create the Castlereagh dam came to me at the
visit of a Frenchman from Someport Transport Co. He needed somehow
to transport 200 x 20 foot pipes each weighing 5 tons and 5 feet
in diameter from the railhead in Hatton to 16 miles away, the chosen
site. I got my carpenter baas to construct a carrier trailer to
haul these monsters behind a stripped down lorry. The first pipe
was 25 feet long and curved. I have photos of the loading. With
so many road turns on the journey I noticed the forward binding
had eased dangerously close to slipping off. Stopping the lorry
at the top I showed this to my driver. "I fix, master"
and he got into the cab, drove down the hill at 20 mph and slammed
on the brakes. The pipe shot forward. He got out, -"I good
driver, master". I could have cried at such loyalty which could
have killed him. Sometime later I was delighted to relieve most
of my staff from compound debt interest from a money lender whom
I took to court. Learned he was one of my own drivers and I sacked
him unceremoniously. The other company was the bank used to provide
the cash for estates to pay their labour force every month. I was
the only European.
I loved these
two jobs and a measure of the success I experienced can be calculated
in that when I arrived I was personally bringing up from Colombo
by station wagon, the equivalent of £500,000, per year in
rupees in monthly trips and after one year I had increased this
to £5,000,000 per year. I liked the planters and they apparently
liked me. During these excursions to collect money my only protection
against bandits was a loaded .38 revolver, incidentally - unlicensed.
I collected monthly from the Central Bank Colombo.
The insurers
Lloyds insisted I drove the car and had two armed police in the
back who, on the D.I.G.'s orders had no bullet up the spout. There
was always an inquisitive crowd watching, so I had a routine.
Taking out
my .38 from the car pocket I stood up in full view, broke the barrel
and inserted six rounds slowly, smiled at the onlookers, put the
revolver in my lap and drove off up the only road to Hatton, Ginigathena
Pass.
The only incidents
which happened in five years were a front wheel of the car sheering
straight off on one trip landing me in the road bank instead of
a long drop. Secondly, on looking out of the Bank's first floor
window to see who had come to collect estate cash a 12 bore went
up in front of my face. On my remonstration three-ply came "sorry,
old man, I did not know it was loaded"; slightly casual I thought
in the circumstances.
Forages
into the wild
At this time my wife and I spent many holidays with friends
camping in the jungle and we had many fascinating trips, and some
dangerous times. As when we had a brush with a full grown and inquisitive
leopard which elected to investigate our little overnight rock shelter
by putting its paws on the 4 ft wall and gazing down on us, its
pricked ears and round mask outlined against the night sky. Again
a chance encounter with a rogue elephant 30 yards away which had
started to roll up its trunk preparatory to charging. Or when a
lone buffalo with 3 foot horns came pounding across an open plain
at our small party consisting of a tracker, my wife, a friend and
myself. The leopard and buffalo incidents are recounted in the journal
"Best of Loris" by Hoffman.
But on one occasion
a block of ice slid slowly down my back when out with a tracker
sitting over a water hole in the stillness of a tropical night.
In the distance I heard one shot and I knew the only other firearm
within some miles was the revolver I had left with my wife in camp
for protection. It is worthy of remark to say that the distant shot
had been fired by Michael Muller who had operated on both my feet
in London in 1948. He passed us by when we were picnicking on the
way out. However I am still alive and so you see all these incidents,
including when my wife was bitten by one of the most poisonous snakes
in Ceylon, did not impede our progress into a fairly ripe old age.
My wife died in July 1993 in the U.K.
By 1958 I was
at the top of my tree and I was getting restive again. I answered
an advertisement in the Times Agony column and struck up correspondence
with a man advertising for capital in a restaurant enterprise in
England. After some months I flew home. I was met at London airport
by a self-drive car with instructions to come down to Newbury.
There I was
regally entertained in a beautiful country house by my prospective
partner, a man of some 70 years. To cut a long story short I went
in with him and the three restaurants he had in England. Back I
went, handed in my resignation to my firm in Ceylon on August 4,
1958. My wife then had the job of packing up and leaving the East
for good. On August 6, two days later, I received a cable from London.
My new partner had died. This was an awful blow but couldn't change
plans and I had the confidence that success in the East must bring
an equivalent measure of success among the wide boys of London.
How terribly
wrong can one be; in this instance pride came before the most colossal
fall.We left Ceylon with many tugging of heart strings and after
25 years and against the advice of many old friends.
The end
of an era
Those wonderful carefree days were over. Often at weekends
we used to stay with dear friends who had a lovely palm leaved hut
on a spit of land dividing a large river estuary; on one side and
sea breakers rolling in from the sea on the other, down at Bentota
before the advent of multi-storey hotels. Our host was the brother
of 'Stinker' Murdoch of 'Much Binding in the Marsh' fame. Our days
were spent mostly in the water, either in the river where we could
knock oysters off the landing jetty pilings, or surfing in the sea
50 yards across the spit. On the beach, turtles dug holes by night
to lay innumerable eggs. Our erstwhile host has since died, but
his widow, now re-married, visited us here in Devon in 1977 when
she reminded me that I used to write her doggerel poems as thankyous
for our lovely weekends and said "Do you write any now?"
This set me on my mettle and the next day driving down to the Axminster
Library, my mind toyed with an idea which came out as follows
-entitled"Et
in Arcadia ego..." 'To Marjorie who twisted my arm'
1 That sandy lea, a boon to me
With sun and sea, was so to thee.
2 Ferry chugging, water lapping,
Palm trees bending, cadjan matting.
3 Cool oases, zephyr breezes,
Lemon squeezes, tension eases.
4 'Famished - hurry', barefoot scurry,
Appu's curry, sated worry.
5 Golden sunsets, gilding fishnets,
Hallowed moments, sensing regrets.
6 Voices muted, strange tales bruited,
Laughter fluted, friendships rooted.
7 Decades pass; memory's haze
cannot erase
how green the
grass.
'By the foregoing I am reminded of an earlier effort in rhyme I
sent to great friend Noel Gratiaen who had been awarded Q.C. He
weighed about 20 stone and was reputed to prefer gin by the bottle
rather than the glass. I wrote,
"The pundits
of the club bar who claimed unique rapacity
for juniper akin to mother's pap,
Omitted to
include the bacchanalian capacity of Gratiaen, Noel Q.C., - verbus
sap;
But hoary reminiscence undistinguished for its brevity, peculiar
to the planter far and wide,
Never fails
to grant the laurel for pure alcoholic levity, to that master of
all the Bacchus tribe.
And now Her
Royal Highness with a gracious magnanimity honour Noel's superb
rhetoric skill.
Has deigned
to claim his counsel in a bond of close affini overflowing to the
brim his cup to fill. Far be from us to ponder, in our realms of
mediocrity.the Olympian sights above our puny roof -
To emulate
his glory needs but supreme avidity for quantities of gin one hundred
proof."
His reply from
chambers in London read "Dear Bill, many thanks. I happened
to have a cup of tea with Her Majesty recently and she by chance
remarked she was getting a little tired of her Poet Laureate.
Did I know
of anyone? I feel sure you willl receive a missive shortly from
Royal quarters."
In conclusion
we were so fortunate during those wonderful years and learned the
courtesy of your great friendship. Thank you.
Next week:
Nicki Upton- born in Colombo 1935
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