Shell-shocked
Being "local" and an adult, I have to pay six rupees to
enter the National Museum on Marcus Fernando Mawatha, Colombo 7.
At 12 noon the place is brimming with school children. White uniforms,
red ribbons, badges, ties, shoes and socks... I gaze at them in
wonder; my species in the process of evolution! They look so alien!
"Is everybody here? There should be eighty-three of you. Where
did those who came in the second bus go?" asks a teacher in
a hoarse voice. "Now behave yourselves. Get in line. Remember
where you are. Don't talk. Don't run..."
I stare at
this phenomenon and almost forget my mission - the Rodney Jonklaas
Seashells Display Room, which had been praised very highly in the
newspapers sometime ago.
I track to
the Natural History section. "Can I see the seashells collection?"
I ask the portly officer at the entrance. "It's upstairs,"
he says, pointing a finger skywards. "But go through the exhibits
on the ground floor first. Now that you are here, see everything
there is to see".
I resent his
patronizing tone, but obediently walk into a dark room on my left.
Stuffed deer gaze at me from glass showcases. I feign an interest
in them till, from the corner of my eye, I see the officer's back
is turned. I sneak past him and go up the stairs.
My mind goes
back to the beautiful seashells in a variety of shapes and colors
that had fascinated me on the beaches of Galle when I was a kid.
But what greets
me inside the showcases are an uncountable number of "aquatic
crustaceans" in unfamiliar shapes. They have names like Haliotis
Asinina and Babylonia Ambulacrun. Needless to say, I feel sad and
let down.
But the disappointment
seems to be only mine. The teenaged schoolgirls, who stand by me,
are fascinated. "Shaa" "Shoke" they exclaim
every passing second. (The boys stand behind them with their just-stepped-out-of-the-shower
hairdos, and bell bottomed trousers, their minds elsewhere). A foreign
lady in a silk dress, a coat hung over her shoulders, wearing stockings
and high-heeled shoes, exclaims "Magnifique".
I try to see
everything as 'Magnifique' too, by transforming in my mind, the
small dark and blue Jonklaas room into the bottom of the ocean.
I dream of mermaids and sea horses. I become a diver in a dark black
suit... But the voice of one of the teachers in charge of the children
drags me out of my reverie. "I think it would be nice to have
a showcase like this in my sitting room." His fair-complexioned
colleague shakes her head from side to side. It is hard to say whether
it's in assent or dissent.
There is nothing
romantic in the seashells on display as there rightly shouldn't
be, for the collection is supposed to be a source of invaluable
information for researchers and enthusiasts of crustaceans. And
so I stare at the Schematic Drawing of a Generalized Gastropod Shell,
and its varix, callus and umbilicus with as much interest as I can
muster. But soon my mind, nurtured on unscientific lines, rebels.
I step out of the room and almost collide with two lovers gazing
into a display of "Pleistocene Rocks".
They do not
speak to one another. I wish they would. I wish the boy would gaze
into the girl's eyes, shake his head in awe and say something poetic
and deeply philosophical about hearts and stones and the love he
has for her (the way lovers in Hindi movies, do). But he simply
stares at the "siltstones with fossil plant impressions"
and asks her "have you finished? Shall we go?"
After an hour
of rambling through the other collections - old jackets and necklaces
worn by ancient kings and queens, minor export crops (cocoa, nutmeg,
cinnamon) carvings of heads of state belonging to the Kandyan era,
I decide to quit.
I leave the
Katu Geya, wondering if I had visited a House of Bones or a House
of Thorns.
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