Wellawaya:
A virgin wrapped in history
By Mallika Wanigasundera
It hardly occurs to you that Wellawaya, a dull little town you pass
on your way to more interesting places, is girdled with the most
historic, archaeological, naturally beautiful, religious spots which
are inspiring, enchanting and wholly occupying.
These
destinations would keep you occupied for at least a whole week.
The most awe-inspiring are the colossal Buddha statues and other
figures of the Buddhist pantheon, such as the massive Maligawila
Buddha statue, recently resurrected after its broken pieces were
forged together. Just as remarkable are the colossal stone carvings
at Buduruwagala. These are all archeological sites. And there is
much, much more to see.
Your
wanderings could take you to at least sixteen places of interest.
This is Uva rich in natural resources and beauty -- water bodies
and waterfalls, parklands, forests and valleys, undulating terrain,
birds and animals, the lovely Ella gap and the national parks.
The
ruins of ancient temple complexes and their chaityas spread around
in several acres where modern temples have sprung up. If you are
more adventurous, you could wander further on to Kataragama, Arugam
Bay and Pottuvil.
Right
round Wellawaya you get spots of historical significance such as
Yudagannawa. This is the place where the two brothers, Dutugemunu
and Tissa, fought for the crown and Tissa lost. He escaped to Dematamal
vihare where the monk hid him. The legend goes that when Dutugemunu
inquired of the bhikkhu where his brother was, the bhikkhu told
him that he was not on the bed. He was in fact under the bed, says
the legend. There are new temples in these spots.
It
would naturally have occurred to you as to where you could stay
over. One quite comfortable place in the most tranquil surroundings
is a guesthouse approved by the Tourist Board under its recent Walauwa
scheme. Don't let its Portuguese name Don Diogu Villa put you off.
It goes back a hundred years and was known as Dimbulamure Walauwa
in those days.
Its
ambiance is altogether indigenous in its hospitality, layout of
house (with modern bathrooms, of course) the food it serves and
the personal concern of its charming hosts Mervyn and Doris Wijesinghe.
Set in a parkland about one and a half miles from Wellawaya on the
Ella-Wellawaya road, you drive through a narrow driveway and if
you are sharp enough, you will see deer scampering away and a peacock
or two pecking into the earth.
Right
behind the bungalow is the Kirindi Oya for a dip and right round
the tranquility yearned for by the dust and noise eaters of Colombo.
If you are a bird lover there birds galore -- kingfishers, orange
minarets, black-capped bulbuls, malkohas, quail, bee eaters, weaver
birds and dozens more.
Mervyn
Wijesinghe, proud of his ancestry, tells of his grandfather Don
Diogu Samarakoon Wijesinghe who was the Korale mahatmaya here a
hundred years ago and built this house. How they were involved in
the Uva rebellion and how his father took two days to go by cart
to Haputale and then onto Kandy.
The
visitor would no doubt be interested in the magul maha vihare where
it is said that king Kavantissa wedded that well known mermaid out
of the sea -- Vihare Maha Devi. |