A
series by Gaveshaka in association with Studio Times
The early buildings down Galle Face Centre road
In the early days of British rule, there wasn’t much open
space in Colombo Fort. With the need to protect the area from the
enemy, there was a need to have fortifications all round. However,
one area that remained an open space was named Galle Face. It was
the starting point towards Galle to the south of Colombo. The name
may have derived from the Dutch word ‘faaas’ meaning
the face or the front of the fortification facing towards Galle.
In
the early 1820s the open space was turned into a racecourse where
horse-racing was held. Later the racecourse was shifted to Cinnamon
Gardens, where it earned the name ‘Havelock Racecourse’.
The first ‘race meet’ is recorded to have been held
in 1821. The racecourse was then known as ‘The Colpetty Racecourse’.
These meets soon turned out to be big social events. For the elite
to view the races, a pavilion was erected at the highest point of
the green. Circular in shape, it had a thatched cadjan roof to begin
with. Just in front of the building at the site where Hotel Taj
Samudra stands today, was the turf where the horses raced. The Galle
Face Centre road runs in that area today.
As
the years went by, the grand stand was improved and made larger.
A more spacious building was built on the same spot and it came
to be known as the ‘Race Bungalow’. It was in September
1870 that the viewing gallery, which came to be called the ‘Grand
Stand’ was used. Meanwhile, the Havelock Racecourse was being
constructed. It was opened in 1883. After horse racing was abolished
in August 1964, the buildings at Havelock Racecourse were converted
to house numerous organizations. Headquarters of several sports
associations are housed there today. It is also used as a training
ground for athletes managed by the Sports Ministry.
Getting
back to the Galle Face green, racing continued there too for a while
until the green came to be used for other sports like golf and polo
as well. Even softball cricket and football were played there. It
came to be used as a site for kite-flying, which was a popular form
of recreation in the early British times. Even today the Galle Face
Green is used by many to send kites and is a colourful sight in
the evening. Meanwhile, a promenade was constructed by Governor
Sir Henry Ward.
A
writer in the early 1900s described the scene at Galle Face thus:
“Along the Galle Face, of an afternoon the principal residents
of the day are to be seen or being driven, up and down in well-appointed
carriages of all description or in their smart cars, or even being
drawn in the all-pervading rickshaw; while the equestrians enjoy
a gallop on the grass alongside and the pedestrians lounge leisurely
along the promenade which flanks the roadway on the seaside, conveniently
provided with seats at intervals.” The picture of the promenade
is yet the same.
An
exclusive club named ‘The Colombo Club’ was formed in
1871 and it was housed in what was once the Race Bungalow where
a British Company called The Assembly Company Rooms Ltd had erected
a smart oval shaped building. The building in the centre of the
picture taken before the Hotel Taj Samudra was built, has been preserved
to the present day and forms the front portion of Hotel housing
the Crystal Ballroom.
“It
very quickly became a most exclusive, men only club, where business
deals were discussed at ‘cold tiffins’ or at the bar.
It boasted two billiard tables and card-rooms and its upper storey
formed the finest ballroom in Colombo, the flooring being of satinwood.
Gleaming white with beautifully carved shutters, it was the very
essence of the British ‘heyday’ in the Island,”
author of Colombo Heritage wrote.
The
white building behind the Colombo Club building seen in the picture
is St. Andrew’s Church completed in November 1907. It was
founded in 1842 as a Church of Scotland by Scots living here.
On
the extreme right can be seen the Galle Face Court. A key feature
of the building is the shallow dome in front. A well-known family
of jewelers, Macan Markar built this first multi-storeyed block
of flats in Sri Lanka. Europeans occupied these flats at time they
were built in the early 1920s. Locals began occupying them after
the Europeans started leaving following the country gaining Independence
in 1948. You will notice the landscape has changed a lot from the
time the picture was taken.
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