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K.D. Chandrasiri writes of a memorable trek to Adam's Peak on a little known route
Up, up through the jungle
There are several routes leading to Adam's Peak, the hallowed mountain venerated by almost all the faiths in the island. Apart from the popular Hatton route which starts from Dalhousie (Nallathanni), which by far is the easiest, pilgrims from south-western Sri Lanka have traditionally used the longer Ratnapura - Gilimale route and Eratne-Adavikanda route (which is popularly known as the Kuruwita route) for this annual pilgrimage.

Yet, there are more obscure routes. Folklore says that people from Uva went on this pilgrimage traversing Horton Plains and the Peak Wilderness forest. Even now a limited number of discerning pilgrims and excursionists use more exotic paths.

One such trek starts from Maliboda off Deraniyagala and cuts through Carney estate, joining the Kuruwita route at Adavikanda. Another branches off from the Ratnapura route and reaches Alupola near Wewelwatte. The most exotic of all is the Fishing Hut route which branches off from the Hatton route just at the start of the hand railings at Mahagiri Damba or the great vertical climb.

This year we planned to embark on the Sri-Pada pilgrimage from Fishing- Hut, a rustic long cabin stuck in a remote corner of Moray Estate, Maskeliya. Fishing Hut reminds one of primitive existence, the only luxury there being the attached bathrooms. What prompted us was the story we were told that this was the shortest trek to Adam's Peak.

We started our journey at dawn on a Saturday in March. Apart from a brief stop beyond Kitulgala for breakfast and another to buy provisions at Norton Bridge, it was steady going and we reached Moray Estate at noon. The log cabin is nestled in the top division of the estate, roughly 8 kilometres inside. A mountain stream, which is said to be a major tributary of Maskeliya Oya flowed by. This meant that we were close to the source of the Kelani River. Beyond is the Peak Wilderness Forest Reserve, the virgin forest that encircles Adam's Peak and stretches all the way to the slopes beyond World's End. The narrow pathway which leads to this exotic location can only be negotiated by a van or a four wheel drive vehicle.

When we arrived at Fishing Hut just after noon, Punchirala, the erstwhile and wizened caretaker, greeted us warmly. His first advice was for us to have a dip in the stream before having lunch. We dutifully followed his advice and waded into the crystal clear waters of this mountain stream. It was icy cold but refreshing. In the olden days, this stream was full of trout introduced by British planters. Hence, the name Fishing Hut. But, nowadays there is no trout and indigenous varieties of fresh water fish cannot survive in these rapidly flowing waters.

The two log cabins are surrounded by summer huts, a wooden promenade that leans into the stream, plenty of greenery and a little further away, dark green tea bushes of the estate proper. There was no one to intrude. Standing at the entrance of the hut, you have a clear view of Adam's Peak, rising majestically out of the jungle beneath. At night, the illuminated peak creates a magnificent silhouette dotted with specks of lights.

The night is cold. Yet, inside the hut there is warmth created by two hurricane lamps and a Petromax. Having slept soundly we awoke early on Sunday morning to embark on our jungle journey to Sri-Pada. Punchirala and his staff were busy preparing our breakfast, hot rotis stuffed with lunu miris. By 7.30 in the morning we set out with a guide provided by Punchirala for our safe passage.

The walk through the upper reaches of the estate was a relatively easy affair. The morning's soft sunlight spread through the green carpet of tea bushes. At a distance, we could catch a glimpse of Adam's Peak, still enveloped in mist. At the end of the estate, where the jungle begins, there is a road sign giving directions to Adam's Peak. From there, onto a narrow jungle path cut into the dense jungle, you are on your way on the last lap of the pilgrimage.

The jungle path is easier than climbing cemented steps, which seem endless. The jungle canopy shelters you bringing a soothing coolness along the leaf-strewn path. Apart from one steep climb, the rest are moderate inclines. Around you are a wealth of flora and fauna. Endless species of bamboo, ferns and orchids and exotic creatures like giant black millipedes and fresh- water crabs are abundant. There are small rivulets and streams along the way with makeshift wooden bridges across them.

Along the way, we stopped for breakfast at a slab of rock the size of a Badminton court. This seemed to be a popular resting place for pilgrims. Traversing the jungle path spanning 2 1/2 miles, we arrived at the hand railings at Mahagiri Damba at noon. It had taken us three and half-hours to complete the jungle trek. The delay was due to the constant attack by leeches that had to be removed from our legs every five minutes. The overnight rain had dampened the path, activating the colony of leeches.

From Mahagirl Damba it was only a matter of climbing for a further 15 minutes to reach the summit. Once we were there, the rain gods went into action. A heavy downpour lasting half an hour greeted our arrival. The peak was enveloped in mist and drizzle.

Having completed all the rituals connected with the summit or the PADME, as it is respectfully called, we decided to climb down. When we were on our way back for a few steps, a pilgrim train (NADE) from Ratnapura invited us to partake in an almsgiving. Since we were drenched with sweat and rain and really hungry, we readily accepted their invitation. Even when we had finished the meal, it was still drizzling. Thinking of our arduous journey through the now sodden footpath, (and the army of leeches) we set out on our way back without waiting for the rain to stop.

The first 100 metres along the jungle path from Mahagiri Damba is a bit repulsive as it is used by pilgrims for ablutions. One has to be careful of the steps. True to our expectations, the path was really wet and the army of leeches was ready for active combat. We immediately gave in and let them cling onto wherever they chose. There was no point in stopping and removing one. Ten others would cling onto your body. Whatever repellents we used, soap, lime, citronella oil and balm gave only temporary relief.

When we at last reached the outskirts of the estate proper, it was five in the evening. Having been alarmed by our delay, Punchirala was impatiently waiting at the road sign. He had intended to launch a search party to rescue us. We were wet to the bone and exhausted. Returning to the Fishing Hut, we immediately waded into the stream, soaped our bodies to get rid of leeches and had a late meal followed by a hot cup of coffee.

Of the numerous journeys and excursions made since childhood, this jungle trek to Sri-Pada stands out for its sheer uniqueness.

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