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Rocks, rapids and a retreat
Adding to the adrenalin-raising white water rafting adventures at Kitulgala are the historic Beli-lena caves and a rain forest trek
By Lankika de Livera
Kitulgala has become synonymous with white water rafting in recent times, but there are many more reasons why this spot, just 100 km from Colombo, is well worth visiting. Chief among these is the historic Beli-lena caves where the pre-historic “Balangoda Man” is supposed to have lived. The caves are reached after a short 10 km drive from the main road through the Kitulgala tea estate.

David Lean’s epic war film “Bridge on the River Kwai” was filmed in this area of the Kelani River which runs through Kitulgala and the ruins of the bridge still remain. The 1095-hectare “Bandara Kele” rainforest just across the river which one can reach by crossing in a canoe (which can be hired) is also a must on any visitor’s itinerary. Last but not least white water rafting is available to those bold adventurous visitors.

We drove through the Kitulgala estate and climbed the rocky boulder steps to get to the Beli lena, some of the largest caves to be found in Sri Lanka where excavations were completed in 1986. The caves were discovered only in 1962 as it had been part of the Kitulgala tea estate.

There are about six caves here and in these the archeologists had found advanced stone tools. Archeologically these caves are of great importance for studying the culture of pre-historic man.

A fairly steep climb brings you to the caves. At the lower level is a huge flat cave like a big hall and with a bit more climbing one reaches another big cave. A small waterfall cascades down in the middle at the entrance of this cave. There are a few smaller caves which had been used by monks as meditating kutis.

A new attraction at Kitulagala passing Yatiyantota at the 100 km post is “Rafter’s Retreat” run by the colourful Channa Perera. Clad in khaki shorts and bush shirt and sporting a cowboy hat, his beard braided with a few beads in-between, Channa, is quite a storybook character. It is his ancestral property on which he runs the guest house. All the furniture at “Rafter’s Retreat is made of logs cut in different shapes. Cinnamon sticks make the fences of the balconies and even the beds are on logs.

In the dining hall which has a panoramic view of the river, the tables are turned out of huge round, empty cable wire reels and there are log chairs. It is a rustic setting and gives one the feeling of being in the Tarzan story.

This place specializes in white water rafting, but crossing the river early morning in a hired canoe we visit Bandara Kele which is ideal for bird watching. Armed to combat the leeches by wearing leech socks, we ventured into the jungle and trekked through the many gurgling streams and lush moist forest. We were fortunate to witness a “feeding flock” of birds on a mission to hunt for food along with woodpeckers, drongos, barbets, Lorikeets, the Alexandrine Parakeet, and the rare Red faced Malkoha.

They all came by suddenly and we realized they were coming because of their cacophony even from a long distance away. Within five minutes all the birds had gone away from the place where we stood. It was a fleeting but wonderful experience.Apparently, most endemic birds can be seen here. Butterflies, dragonflies, snakes, frogs and interesting creatures like apple snails are to be found in this rainforest. From the edge of the forest, one could also do a one hour trek to the Lenthiri Ella – a picturesque waterfall.

White water rafting itself is very thrilling and gives one more than a few chills and gasps as the boat goes crashing through the seven rapids. For the really daring the boat is suddenly tipped over and you will find yourself in swirling foamy waters – to swim back to the boat or just drift downstream. For this experience one has to don life jackets and helmets. As experienced guides are with you all the while, there is not much danger involved.

After a long day of climbing to the Beli lena caves and trekking for hours through the Bandara Kele, there is nothing better than a lovely river bath and a hearty dinner, before retiring to a log cabin to be lulled to sleep by the sounds of the river and the cicadas with fireflies floating around like little stars.

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