On
the trail of a legend
I
had long wanted to experience Saradiel country, the place that Sri
Lanka’s most infamous bandit made his hideout. Venturing into
Utuwankande was like going into Sherwood Forest, the sylvan home
of Robin Hood and his Merrie Men.
Deekirikevage
Saradiel was born on March 25, 1835. His gang of robbers included
Hawadiya, Kirihonda, Bawa, Suwanda, Sirimale and Mammalay Marikkar.
Together they were a lawless bunch who waylaid carriages and coaches
and robbed people of their valuables. Today the way to Utuwankande
is along the Edna Corporation road, about 3 km towards Colombo from
the Mawanella town. The junction on the main road is aptly named
Utuwankande Junction.
To
get to the foot of the hill, you have to walk about a kilometre
along the road up to the chocolate factory. A footpath behind the
factory will take you along typical village scenery through a mixture
of rubber, coconut and banana plantations.
A few
buffaloes grazing lazily reminded me of a story about Saradiel.
It is said that at one time when this area was being combed by the
police, Saradiel had escaped by causing a buffalo stampede and made
his getaway by hanging on to the neck of one of the beasts!
Back
on the path, I was now making my way up a rubber plantation. The
path is made for rubber tapping and trees bleeding rubber acted
as guides. The exit from the rubber plantation was sudden and for
the first time I could see Utuwankande close up.
It
was a magnificent sight. A mass of rocky boulders, clumped together
in an awkward fashion, it rose far above the surrounding coconut
trees.
The
path to the top will take about an hour, but as it was not well
marked, the climb was steep and tiring. Full of rock crevices, passes
and elevations, it certainly had many places that would have made
ambush easy. It was no wonder the bandit king had chosen this rock
as his hideout. I knew only a little history but it seemed that
of the three well known rocky mountains in this region – Bible
Rock, Allagalle and Utuwankande, this was the best for a bandit’s
work.
Contrary
to popular belief, Saradiel supposedly was not a fearsome-looking,
strong man. He was rather small, but such a build would have been
ideal for this terrain.
The
top was all craggy rocks. At the peak was a rock placed precariously
on top of another boulder. It was square on all sides and I was
not foolhardy enough to climb up. Nevertheless, there were iron
rods bored into the top of the rock. So it must be climbable if
you are an expert!
The
view was magnificent and you could see for a hundred miles all around.
All roads to the rock were visible and all those travelling on them
could not hide. One could imagine Saradiel plotting the ambush of
a caravan from up here. Those days, contractors taking goods to
Kandy had to seek armed escorts to escape the marauding band of
robbers. Yet even this did not assure safe passage.
Still
at the top, there was another danger. Hanging down from a huge stone
roof were thousands of wasps. They were going about their business
now, but I didn’t want to be around if they were disturbed!
On
the way down at a time when I was a bit worried about the vagueness
of the trail, I was surprised to spot a rundown barbed wire fence.
Although far up the hill I wasn’t sure whether this was private
property. Nevertheless, I was relieved to see the path widen out,
for I was well aware how a metre off the track at the peak could
magnify to several kilometres further down!
The
law caught up with Saradiel not up here but in a house at Mawanella.
One of his gang was to become a police informant in a classic act
of betrayal. At that time, Saradiel was with Mammalay Marikkar.
Constable Tuan Shaban of the Kandy Police died while capturing Saradiel
on March 21, 1864.
He
was the first police officer in our country to die in action, and
to this day, every year police heroes are commemorated on this day.
Saradiel and Mammalay Marikkar walked to the gallows on May 7, 1864
.
I knew
that there was also a cave on the mountainside, but had somehow
missed it. A villager, enlightening me said that I would need a
torch if I were to explore the cave. So it must be a deep one. However,
I was in no mood to go back.
Further
down I smelt the sweet scent of chocolate coming through the exhaust
fans of the chocolate factory. But chocolate is not appealing to
a thirsty traveller, which I had become by now. Besides, the soft
drink hoarding on the main road to which I had now come was a most
welcome sight. A 400ml bottle of Orange Crush tasted better and
disappeared faster than I had ever known. My excursion into Saradiel
country was over, but one last legend remains to be retold.
It’s
the legend of the “Henaraja thailaya”. Some think that
this oil believed to have magical properties was originally a blade
“Henaraja Thalaya” or thunderbolt blade. It is said
that Saradiel stole this blade from its Malay owner and it was with
him when he was captured.
Saradiel
was probably a villain, yet he was also a daring man. History loves
daring men, and they have a way of becoming legends. And this legend
is still remembered well by the people living in what was once his
abode.
Who
was Saradiel?
A report on Saradiel Appu published in the Government Gazette
Extraordinary of Jan.10, 1863 after an escape from prison described
him thus:
Birth place: Uttoowankandy. Residence: Uttoowankandy. Trade: Boutique
keeper. Caste: Wellala. Religion: Buddhist. Age: 31 years. Height:
5ft 3ins. Hair: Long. Eyes: Hazel. Complexion: Brown. Make [Build]:
Well. Read and Write: Both. School: Private school. Family: None.
Former convictions: None. Distinguishing marks: Mark of a mole on
the right cheek. Escaped: Nov. 29, 1862, from Hulftsdorp Jail. |