Craft
paradise in Bali
By Sanath Weerasuriya in Bali
Continued from last week's 'Ball in Bali'...
A
gateway to Bali via Singapore
Flying Singapore Airlines, one of the popular airlines in
the ASEAN region, is the easiest way to Bali. "Bali is
still the most sought-after destination in Asia," said
Lee Ser Yi, General Manager, Singapore Airlines - Sri Lanka.
Singapore Airlines operates 16 flights a week to the Balinese
capital Denpasar from Singapore. There are three flights a
day on Tuesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday, while on Monday
and Wednesday, the airline operates twice daily.
Count your money
Good things apart, visitors have to be alert as, like anywhere
in the world, Bali too is a paradise for racketeers who claim
to be ‘authorized money exchangers’.
The currency in Bali is the Rupeeya and there are 9500 Rp
in one US$. The rate offered at ‘authorized money exchangers’
is usually higher than the official rate to lure customers.
The
rate is usually a complex number, e.g. 9495 Rp instead of
9500 Rp. And instead of 100,000 Rp notes, 50,000 or 20,000
Rp notes are given. This means visitors have a lot of counting
to do. Always make use of money changers who do not charge
commission and always count the notes yourself.
Make
sure they give you big notes so that you can count them easily.
With a very weak public transport system in Bali, travellers
have no option but to hire taxis and if you don't approach
the right man then you may be taken for an over-priced ride. |
The
friendly people, the natural attractions, the great variety of things
to see and do and its pleasant climate all year round make Bali
a fascinating destination for any traveller.
The
colourful influence of authentic Hinduism plays a major role in
the day-to-day life of the Balinese. Offerings to Gods have a significant
place in life as they appease the spirits and thus bring prosperity
and good health to the family. Every day, small offering trays (canang
sari) containing symbolic food, flowers, cigarettes and money are
placed at shrines, in temples, outside houses and shops and even
at dangerous crossroads.
The
Sarasvathi Pooja is one of the main festivals for appeasing the
gods. I was lucky to witness this as the 'Sarasvathi Pooja' annual
festival fell on February 18 during my visit. The women bear huge,
beautifully arranged pyramids of food, fruit and flowers on their
heads while the men might conduct a blood sacrifice through a cockfight.
There are traditional dances and music and the gods are invited
to come down to join in the festivities.
Though
Bali is world famous for its beaches, nature and adventure too exist
in this magical island. Ubud is a place for adventure in Bali. Situated
near the island's centre and midway between Kuta and the Kintamani
peaks, Ubud is considered cooler than Kuta and this is not just
because of its generally milder climate, but because of the tropical
forest cover in the area.
Apart
from being home to many chic art galleries, craft shops and studios,
this charming, conglomerate of villages is also the 'royal centre'
of Bali with numerous palaces and temples to be visited. It also
offers some of Bali's best dining experiences.
Artistically,
Bali is a melting pot of cultures and traditions. The Balinese have
a natural capacity for absorbing different cultural elements and
blending them with their own. For centuries, artists and craftsmen
in Bali worked under the patronage of the Hindu priests and ruling
classes, decorating palaces and temples.
The
artists themselves never signed their work and usually lived together
in special villages. As their designs followed strict aesthetic
and religious guidelines, the artists generally did not have much
room for personal expression. With the arrival of European artists
at the start of the last century, this soon began to change, and
local artists started developing their own individual styles.
Ubud
is overflowing with arts and crafts, including oils, ink and pastel
paintings; ceramics, castings and sculpture; basket making, rattan
work and weaving; stone, wood, bone and coconut carving; metalwork,
furniture making and, of course, jewellery. The quality is good
and prices are flexible, so bargaining is de rigueur.
Influenced
by the Western use of perspective and everyday-life subject matter,
the Ubud style is one of the most 'expressionist' of all the Balinese
schools. Despite this, Ubud art still retains many traditional features,
including attention to detail and stylized characters.
One
of the most striking things about Bali is the rich variety of cloth
and materials that are to be seen in thousands of shops throughout
the island. However, only a small proportion of these is indigenous
to Bali. The myriad batik clothes and sarongs available everywhere
are mainly imported from Java. Bali does, however, have a rich textile
industry of its own, of which the beautiful Songket fabrics worn
by performers of traditional dance are a good example. In Songket,
gold and silver threads are woven into the cloth to create complex
motifs of birds, butterflies and flowers.
Endek,
or weft ikat, is another common method used in Bali. In weft ikat
weaving, the weft threads are dyed to create the design and then
woven with plain warp threads.
The
least common form of weaving to be seen in Bali is the Geringsing,
or double-ikat, and this perhaps the most sought after. This is
when both the warp and weft threads are dyed to their final designs
before being woven together. With the exception of certain areas
in India and Japan, this weaving technique can only be found in
the small Bali Aga village of Tenganan in East Bali.
Wood
carving, like stone carving, has traditionally featured largely
in temple and palace architecture. Immaculately carved demons and
mythical beings decorate pillars, door panels, lintels and window
shutters with the aim of protecting the buildings from evil intruders.
Scenes of legendary figures placed within floral decor set a more
pleasant and educational tone.
With
the arrival of European influences, wood carving started to develop
along more innovative and commercial lines. These days whole villages
specialize in producing certain styles of work. The village of Mas,
near Ubud, is probably the best known for its carvings of female
figures, Buddhas, characters from Hindu epics and the traditional
Topeng and Wayang Wong masks.
Ubud
is ideal for biking, walking, trekking, bird watching, herb gathering,
kayaking or rafting amid the phosphorescent rice paddies. Thus,
with all that Ubud has to offer, a stay of at least 2-5 days is
recommended. Many visitors make Ubud their home base as it is so
centrally located and close to all the other attractions in Bali.
Apart
from the cultural aspect of Bali, the island is world famous for
its spas. “Balinese massages” are well accepted globally
and all top spas in the world offer them.
In
Bali, many of the plant extracts used in spa therapies are made
from locally sourced flowers, roots and barks, such as: Jepun (
frangipani), Jahe (ginger), Cendana (Sandalwood), Kelapa (Coconut),
and even Bali Kopi (Balinese coffee grains). Many spas and salons
prepare their own essential oils using age-old methods and recipes
handed down through generations of beauty therapists.
All the top hotels have their own spas and Westerners are the top
clientele of these Spas. “Some tourists come mainly to get
the spa treatments,” a hotel spokesman said.
(The
writer was in Bali as a guest of Singapore Airlines)
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