A spiritual togetherness

With the leader of the Bohra community, Dai-Ul-Mutlaq, Dr. Syedna Mohammad Burhannudin now in Sri Lanka to observe the Ashara Mubaraka period, the Bohras here have opened their homes to their brothers and sisters worldwide

On January 9, this year, one man made a decision that would affect the immediate future of thousands of people all over the world; a decision that would have them packing their bags, shutting down their businesses and booking their tickets – all in preparation to spend 10 days in a foreign, possibly unfamiliar country. Entire communities of Bohras from near and far, numbering in the thousands would, within weeks, be on a plane to Sri Lanka. Finally gathered together, on January 19, they would begin the observance of Ashara Mubaraka.

The Ashara Mubaraka period described as one of the most important and holy events in the Islamic calendar, commemorates the martyrdom of Prophet Mohammad’s grandson, Imam Hussain. Every year the first 10 days of Moharram, (the first month of the Islamic calendar) is spent in mourning, in recognition of Imam Hussain’s sacrifice. After 10 days comes Ashurah, the actual anniversary of his passing in the Battle of Karbala. Meaning, ‘the tenth’, Ashura is a day of voluntary fasting. This year, Ashara Mubaraka began on the 19th, and Ashura will be observed today, January 28th.

At the head of the Dawoodi Bohra community is the 52nd Dai-Ul-Mutlaq, Dr. Syedna Mohammad Burhannudin. Chosen by his predecessor, the current Dai-Ul-Mutlaq is the very heart of the Bohra community. Each year, he picks a city in which to commemorate Ashura Mubarak, be it Houston or Ahmedabad…this year it was Colombo.

“We were all in tears…finally we could see him arriving in our country, stepping onto our soil,” says a media spokesperson for the local Bohra community, explaining that it has been eight years since His Holiness last came here.

When the Dai-Ul-Mutlaq’s decision was made known, Colombo’s 2,500 strong Bohra community immediately swung into action. They knew that ahead of them lay a gargantuan task – they had to prepare to host not only the man they most deeply revered but also the many thousands of faithful believers who would follow him to Sri Lanka.

The local Bohra community are - as is traditional - exemplary hosts, and have arranged transportation, accommodation, and food for all their visitors over the entire period of Ashara Mubaraka at their own expense. Today hotels all across the city, and even up to Beruwala, are filled with visitors. In addition, the 800 odd Bohra households scattered across Colombo are on average playing host to 20 people each. A fleet of buses transports people to and fro, while a train has also been placed at their service.
“All we say is ‘Come, His Holiness is here, come, and we will provide everything for you,” explains the spokesperson, adding that “thousands have come from all parts of the world and thousands more are expected.” This is tradition, but making this operation smooth and efficient are the wonders of modern technology. “Everything is computerised, that’s why it’s so easy for us,” explains the spokesperson. She adds that “even before the announcement, you have to go online [the Bohras have their own well-organized website] and register that you intend to come for this year’s Ashara, no matter what country it is in.” Key to the registration process is the number on the I.D card that all Bohras carry.

Great attention is paid to detail. A temporary table erected at the airport holds a welcoming committee. Arriving Bohra guests are asked to swipe their I.D card through a machine at the airport as soon as they arrive, automatically registering their presence in Sri Lanka in the computer. “Now we know they are in the country – and now that they are here, they are our responsibility,” explains the spokesperson. From the airport transport is arranged to take them to the old passport office near Majestic City, where the organizers have set up offices. Here, they are allocated accommodation and provided transport to their hotels.

Bohras congregate atleast twice every day for prayers at the Bohra Mosque in Adamaly Place, Colombo 4. Approximately 5,000 can be seated in the mosque, and the organisers have extended the seating area further, erecting several tents with speakers adjoining the main building. A comprehensive medical centre, with over a 100 doctors on call is just down the road, while two large sheds on Marine Drive are used at meal times. Teams from all over the world that include cooks and security personnel (known as Burhani guards), work in sync to meet the not inconsiderable needs of the gathering.

Many see the Dai-Ul-Mutlaq’s visit here as a beacon of hope amidst the escalating conflict. “We never expected His Holiness to choose Sri Lanka, because of all the trouble in the country,” says N. Khanvhoy reverently, “but he says there will be peace.”

“Deedar – that what people come for,” says Zoeb Yusuf Ali, explaining that he draws sustenance and inspiration simply from looking upon the countenance of His Holiness. Many feel the same, choosing to go wherever His Holiness decides to observe Ashara Mubaraka. “I have been following him for many years now,” says F. Khilawala. She and her family will stay not only for the required 10 days, but like many others may extend their time here to take in some of the sights and do a little shopping.

Understandably, this annual gathering serves to bind an already close community even closer together. “25 officially, but I have a 100 people coming over for tea every single day,” says a delighted Umme Salama, whose house seems to be a hub of activity. M. Thayabally reveals that he originally knew only one of the 20 people who would be living with him, however, time and proximity has taken care of that. “These are people from all over the world, they unite and get to know people from other parts of the world,” he explains.

In a world where people are cautious about opening the door to strangers, a strong sense of community seems innate to the Bohras. Young children, in sequin laden caps, the women in their colourful two piece ridas decorated with patterns and lace, and the men in their white and gold topis seem to mingle with the ease of long familiarity. Somehow, they seemed to have attained an enviable balance, where tradition blends into modernity, and faith withstands the test of time.