Dazzled by Dubai

Have I travelled a hundred years back in time? Wave after wave of rolling golden sand dunes stretch for miles around me, a creased and dimpled landscape of barren beauty. The silence is broken by the whisper of an icy desert breeze – despite the blazing brightness of the afternoon sun; the desert is a freezing place during the winter months. As I sink my feet into the velvety softness of the sand, it hardly seems possible that I am only less than an hour away from the noise and bustle of the lively city of Dubai.

Dubai – with its towering buildings and ultra-modern technology, its glitzy shopping malls and vibrant souks – selling everything from gold to textiles – and its exciting blend of Western and Eastern cultures, is undoubtedly one of the world’s most happening cities. Added to this is the mystique of the desert that surrounds the city, and no visit to Dubai is complete without the experience of a desert safari.

The desert, that accounts for much of the Emirates almost 4,000 square km area, encompasses rocky plains, high dunes and, between these two extremes, countless combinations of sand, stone and sparse vegetation. A desert safari is a tour which takes you into the heart of the desert, driving through the sand dunes, and ends with a Bedouin-style camp and barbeque under the stars. The safaris are organised in groups by tour agents, and are available in half-day, full-day and overnight packages that cost from about 230 Dirham upwards.

Opting for a half-day tour, we are picked up at around 2 p.m. from Deira, in the north of the city, by one of the four-wheel-drive jeeps that are used especially for the safaris, and driven to the dunes at the edge of the city. We have been told not to have a heavy lunch, and to dress warmly for the desert. “I’ll make sure you have a good time!” assures the driver, a Pakistani, as he lets out some of the air from the wheels of the jeep. This is to reduce the pressure for what is called ‘dune bashing’ – or desert driving – which has been previously described to us as an ‘Arabian roller coaster ride’.

We fasten our seat belts and with a whirr of the engines, we’re off for one of the most thrilling rides of our lives! Stirring up clouds of sand, the jeep goes up, down and sideways at near-impossible angles across sand dune after sand dune, provoking shrieks of laughter and excitement. Many times it seems that the jeep has become submerged in a sand pit and the wheels spin furiously, only to fly out again at amazing speed. Knowing that the driver has had years of experience in dune bashing, makes it easier to relax and enjoy the ride. We make occasional stops to get off the jeep and catch our breath while absorbing the beauty of the desert as it begins to glow in the spectacular colours of a true Arabian sunset, with long shadows cast upon the miles of vast emptiness.

After over an hour of nerve-wracking driving, we are quite ready to be driven to the camp-site, to join the rest of the safari group for refreshment and entertainment. At the entrance to the camp however, yet another ride awaits us, on the original ‘ships of the desert’. A convoy of camels led by an Arab, with brightly coloured blankets thrown across their humps walk restlessly on the sand, waiting for the first tourists to go for a short ride. Some are muzzled; another bares its large yellow teeth in what appears to be a fierce snarl.

Against my better judgment, I climb onto the hollow between its hump and wait, nervously, for the camel to rise. As it jerks onto its feet at a word from the Arab, with its characteristic zigzag movements, it is a challenge to remain seated on the slippery surface while clinging onto the small metal bar in front of me. The ride is short and bumpy, the camel’s descent equally unbalanced. Slithering off its back, I think what a relief it is to be on solid ground again!

Fresh, juicy dates and warm cups of tea, the balmy aroma of barbequed meat and the flickering glow from the lamps and camp-fires greet us as we enter the camp-site. The magical atmosphere and romance in the air transport us to a different world - a scene from the Arabian nights, an exotic vista that makes ordinary civilisation seem a million miles away.

There are tents spread with vivid Arabian carpets. Low tables are surrounded by plush cushions for seats. A ‘Henna lady’ paints striking traditional designs on the hands and arms of the women at the camp. A feast of Eastern dishes and Arabian sweetmeats is spread out. There is a buzz of conversation as the group of tourists gets to know each other – Europeans, Americans, Asians and even a few locals for whom a desert safari is an occasional form of entertainment.

The sudden sound of drumbeats and music signals the appearance of Olga, the belly dancer for the evening! Swivelling her lissome body in its bright red belly-dancer’s costume, she mesmerises the audience with the grace of her movements, as she balances a stick on her hips while dancing. After a while, a young child joins her on the stage, trying to imitate her feat. Soon, there are children, men and women dancing with Olga, and much gaiety and laughter.

The dancing comes to an end. Olga thanks the crowd and leaves. It is almost 10 p.m. and the wind is even colder. After all the dune bashing, camel riding, good food and high spirits, everyone is ready to go home. The drivers prepare the jeeps for the drive back to the city. “Did you have a good time?” asks our Pakistani. The best, we assure him as we near the bright lights of Deira.

Dubai - a city where the sophistication of the 21st century walks hand in hand with the mysticism of a bygone era. There are many memories we will carry home with us – the amazing bargains at the month-long Dubai Shopping Festival, the exciting events of the festive season, the beaches and sporting events, the vibrant nightlife and the plush luxuries of the hotels and resorts – but above all, the thrill and romance of a drive in the desert and a celebration under the stars.