Certain chefs might feel it their birthright to head the Top Chef lists. And though I might well cook up trouble with my exclusions.... my choices of the chefs to watch out for in 2010 were made on technical perfection, interplay of flavours, fragrances, textures, presentation, quality of ingredients and there are always brownie points for creativity.
Fine dining
Chef Buddika Samarasekera, Spoons:
In my mind, this chef who was second-runner up at the prestigious MLA Black Box Global Final 2008 in Dubai is the only world class chef in Colombo. Chef B is in a league of his own and his competition is with international Michelin-starred and celebrity chefs.
The sheer craftsmanship of his creations can rival Parisian chefs. And why not, when this chef has been formed in France under such legends as 3-Michelin-starred Paul Bocuse in Lyon (fabled for its gastronomy) and 3-Michelin-starred Pierre Gagniere in Paris, amongst other Michelin-starred chefs, notably Stefan Gaborieux to whom Chef Buddika renders himself annually in Paris to finetune his art. For art his creations are.
Take for instance, the aubergine mousse, yoghurt, beet balsamic, tomato coulis embellished with gooseberries and edible flowers (a worldwide vogue).
Wild mushroom cappuccino hinted with truffle walked right out of a classic French gastronomic restaurant and crispy artichoke tart with vanilla scented spring veggies and sweet onion sauce exhibited textural finesse and innovative flamboyance. But the piece de resistance was fusion-flashed braised pakchoi wrapped brie risotto & baby squash with mapo bean curd.
This innovation convened the exoticism of Chef B’s training with celebrity Singaporean masters with the adventurousness of the French, besides proving that he is the only chef capable of making Italian style risotto in this country. Subtle, nuanced, daring yet perfectly controlled, one of the most perfect suppers I have had.
Chef B who enjoys watching action thrillers translates the action into epicurean thrills. Bored of winning awards, countless in Sri Lanka, including 12 gold medals, he now joins Hilton Colombo’s celebrated Executive Chef Rohan Fernandopulle to train youngsters. But Chef B dream of cooking at the Food Olympics 2012. Meanwhile he will compete at Food Asia 2010 in Singapore this April. What he will present is top secret.
Chef Lekhpal Singh Rawat, Navaratna:
The Taj is a global gastronomic juggernaut with a Michelin-starred restaurant in London. But I prefer the food at Colombo’s Navaratna, which might well be amongst the best Indian restaurants outside India. The venue just installed a new Master Chef and also imported a Lucknow chef.
The new menu incorporates Lucknowi specialties like almond and garlic soup. The dal makhani is unsurpassed in Colombo. The chef’s skill is perhaps best demonstrated with the desserts, be they the gorgeously textured angoori basundi, kulfis or gajar ka halwa.
Singing sensation Asha Bhosle apparently made time out of a hectic schedule for a languorous meal at her favourite Colombo restaurant. We hear she will return soon, maybe not just to eat at the Navaratna. But no doubt it will be a top priority.
Chef Anushan Perera,
California Grill:
This chef, at the Grill since its inauguration and perhaps synonymous with it, simply runs riot with his imagination. He conceived and began preparing my menu degustation a week prior to the dinner.
So we started off with a salad comprising veggies and fruit sundried for a week, including apple, kiwi and peppers tinged in a tangy vinaigrette offset by sober pickled veggies in a shot glass.
Then came carrot and orange soup where the sharpness of the orange was equilibrated by the roundness of carrot and soft orange pulp flirted with crisp sundried orange peel. One of the most innovative soups I have had in a long, long time.
As for the lime and fresh pepper sorbet, the most creative and indeed tastiest sorbet I have sampled anywhere in the world. It came on an upturned sundae glass raining molten chocolate. Now that’s artistic vision. For my gaze was distracted from the astonishing view and stayed put on the presentation.
Ethnic Gastronomic
Chef Karu (G.P.P. Karunaratne) Curry Leaf:
The general consensus is that this is the best Sri Lankan cuisine restaurant in Colombo. The expertise of Executive Chef Rohan Fernandopulle and gastronomic blood of French GM Jerome Auvity have propelled Hilton’s Colombo’s culinary scene to a new dimension. And it is with reason that this was the only Colombo hotel to have been awarded at the most prized global travel awards, The World Travel Awards 2009.
But amidst all the international accolades Chef Karu (as he is fondly known) holds his Sri Lankan own. I have dined at Curry Leaf thrice in one month and each time Chef Karu presented me something new and showcased his restaurant in a different light. This, to me, is the sign of a great chef. And an endearing chef is one who brings little tit bits not officially on the buffet and smiles, “For you only.”
Chef’s passion for food manifests in the excellence of the live stations, including kottu, hoppers, fried savouries, sweetmeats, besides the extensive curries on the buffet and the fresh seafood market- chef is very proud of his lobster and crab dishes.
As for the quality of spices used in the curries, these are the Grade A. No wonder the curries evoke a spice garden on a plate. Chef Karu, more than any other, brings a flavour of Sri Lankan hospitality to his cooking. I might well have to return to Colombo just for Chef Karu’s lovely local extravaganza. Can’t wait!
Chef Aree Jitman, Royal Thai:
I must confess a love hate relationship with this restaurant. Last year, I didn’t like it. But this time round, I started the evening with specifications of what I expected of Thai food of international standards, not something adulterated to indigenous palates.
The poor lady chef no doubt thought, “The journalist from hell!” and fled to her kitchen. Halfway through the meal she asked, “Do you like my food?” I loved it! The soups and salads are superb, especially the papaya salad and spicy mushroom soup. And anything with her silken glass noodles is a must.
The curries might have been thicker than I am used to, but fabulously savoury and fragrant and cooked to just the right degree, confirming technical mastery.
Chef Wang Wen, Golden Dragon:
The new chef from Beijing does Colombo’s only spring rolls that do not drip oil. Spring rolls, like most things simple, are difficult to get right and with this simple starter chef announces his skill, further witnessed in crispy mushroom and baby corn, again virtually oil free.
Chef’s Beijing mushroom strips have already become a hit but his speciality is the Beijing chilli crab and garlic potatoes. The 25-year-old chef harbours freshness, potential and hope. A taste perhaps of what we expect of the new year? |
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