Soaking in the tranquility
Kalkudah beach: Breathtaking sunsets. Pix by Juliet Coombe
Travelling through the east of the island, there is still evidence of the 30-year civil war in the barbed wire fences around villagers’ homes, in particular in Batticaloa, the Eastern theatre of the civil war, just 35 kilometres east of Kalkudah, one of the island’s most idyllic spots. A place also decimated by the 2004 tsunami.
The good news is that the area has been fully restored to its former blissful beach haven and being fully cleared of landmines, is being used for agriculture and exciting new enterprises. As one hits Passikudah with its wide range of accommodation choices, chic hotel bars with ocean views and famous snorkelling areas, the landscape starts to change. The scenery transforms from buzzy beach life to quiet golden beaches and lush plantations, a conversion that starts from Passikudah’s main roundabout, where people stop and capture images of the town’s strikingly exotic fish sculpture twisting and turning like a shoal of fish. From bustling Passikudah with its lively harbour and crab restaurant next door, carry on to the sleepy Kalkudah beach with its dazzling powder-soft sand, where the only patrols morning and evening are the overly curious herds of friendly cows.
Kalkudah is a stunning sea change of unspoiled beach frontage with an old coconut plantation, whose swaying palm fronds fan the adventurous few who have discovered this enchanting place, enjoying refreshing drinks from the sun drenched coconut trees. Fish eagles swooping overhead and paths either side of the roads leading down to this beautiful spot covered in golden seeds, are all positive indicators of the community coming together for a more positive future. The locality has also been aided by the money brought in by international tourism
Follow the exotic fish to Karpaha Sands
Karpaha Sands hotel, Kalkudah is just one such business passionate about addressing the harmful effects of selfish human activity in and around its site, extending around 15 kilometres. Their eco-sustainable approach is clearly demonstrated not only in their architectural choices, but also in how they run the place – the uber cool human formation art at the pool and overlooking the beach created from up-cycled clapped out old car parts, factory cogs and wheels, also the smallest details, like having glass rather than plastic bottles of water in every room. Their gourmet menu changes with the different seasons instead of importing overseas goods.
To reach Karpaha Sands, follow a palmyrah-lined pathway, a traditional fencing technique to keep cattle in and act as a sandbreaker on windy days. If you arrive around tea time, you may well see the Kalkudah fishermen hauling in a giant net around 3.30 – 4p.m. with the latest catch of the day.
I learn from the Kiran fisherman at Kalkudah Beach that the area literally means ‘Bay Of Stones’, after the nearby rocks which break the water so it is as still as the pristine beaches of the Maldives and I love that the Hideaway restaurant serves pieces of fish on sizzling hot black rocks. An exciting culinary meal, where you are given the raw ingredients including prawns, to cook with chopsticks on the heated black rocks and dip into a variety of tongue tingling sauces.
Every day in the East starts with a spectacular sunrise. Wake up at 5 a.m. to experience it as no two days are the same. The giant fiery-red sun ball rises out of the sea as if the sun is fire torching the world with sparks of energy, telling everyone to get up and seize the day or, at the very least, do an hour of stress-busting yoga on the beach.
The vibrant sunrise, all reds, pinks and purple and flaming orange, is like the opening of a choreographed play; Kalkudah comes to life as fishermen appear, walking barefoot across the sand with blue and green nets twisted around long wooden poles that they carry in military style processions to their wooden boats, while others return on a wave from a spot of night fishing in boats with bird-like prows to protect them from the ocean spirits. The boats are pulled out of the water either by the whole community or a little red tractor. As the sun moves overhead, it is time to take a dip in the velvety warm ocean and put on one of the locally made hand-woven palmyrah hats for sun protection. This and pretty much everything is created by villagers, who make everything from glam beach bags to palmyrah-leaf table mats.
Paddle-boarding is a must for those who want to explore these calm azure waters of the curved moon-shaped bay, only a short distance from Passikudah, where you can enjoy one of the many groovy venues for a spot of night life. There are also two-person canoes, family cooking classes and plenty of historic tours around the area as the East is rich in ancient sites.
Whether it is chilling out and savouring fresh crab served with garlic butter sauce on the beach, enjoying a coconut or two on an innovative boat-sofa watching the sunset, or dining out from your fishing trip with a seafood barbecue under the stars, just remember what the mirror on the entrance hall of Karpaha Sands says: ‘Freedom cannot be simulated.’
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