Sri Lanka (MBFWSL) – the flagship event presented by the Academy of Design (AOD) and powered by Dimo, which unfolded on the runway at the AOD’s Innovation Tower from December 1 – 3. aims to create international opportunities for upcoming local designers.

Day 1’s theme of The New Local, saw designers look for both innovation and sustainability, using heritage craft textiles with futuristic twists.  The showopener ‘The Future of Craft’ by Shalini Wickramasuriya was “a curated showing of conceptual development from the AOD fashion class of 2023”.

Next up was Designer meets Artisan, work from individual designers and their brands.  The pandemic and the current economic crisis had inspired Ashleen Adhikari to reach out to small local units, creating her designs, particularly from those materials. Malka inspired by the tropics and batik techniques, was followed by Anna Ceylon with designs containing significant motifs from posters, magazines, and colonial architecture.  Nimna (Asteroid 1.0) presented contemporary local textile craft through graphic streetwear. This was followed by contrasting handwoven materials in the collection by Udak and the black-and-white androgynous collection Mendes Ceylon “encapsulating the independent, resilient spirit of the Ceylonese girl”.

Next up, Twisting Macrame x Celine Hansen (a Danish designer) saw a marriage of Sri Lankan craft and international design through authentic streetwear, followed by the brand Kasun which aimed to redefine masculinity with fluidity in menswear.  Abstract Japanese artwork was the evident inspiration for Chihiro “Kala”, followed by Eco di Babara – that explored the concept of ‘deconstructed vintage’.

Deputy British High Commissioner Lisa Whanstall presented the Future Craft Award to Artroom Ceylon, by entrepreneurs Kasun Jayawardana and Udaya Wickramage, both university lecturers.  This was their second collection on MBFW.  “We were completely taken aback,” said an elated Kasun.  Their brand was called ‘Craft Salad’ reflecting the amalgamation of the varieties of heritage craft textiles through experimental fashion – from batik to crotchet, to lace. “We want to create not just designs, but artwork.”

Nilly by Nilshani, a motivational speaker with Down Syndrome, displayed women’s resort wear under the title ‘Birds of paradise’.  Asma Harifa’s concept “Padma Kaveya” was born after a visit to Kandy where she drew inspiration from the materials of monks, experimenting with hand-made dye to recreate the colour through her designs.

The last few presentations of the night were Saarau Ahmed’s unisex 90s’ streetwear collection; Wasteland Dwellers, t.s.s by Thilini Silva’s minimalistic batik drape designs, and lastly, Urban Drape’s ‘New Ceylonese Globe Trotter’ collection –  an edgy, innovative extension of traditional craft and urban denim.

Day 2 and 3

Next up were the promising future brand proposals put forward by the graduating class of 2022. Keshawee Raddella’s brand BLAZE combined futuristic technology and minimalistic lifestyles with inspiration from the Tesla brand and technology. The designs in collaboration with TIMEX Garments were bold and multifunctional with detailing in the form of narrow LED strips.

Winning the award for Best Future Brand Proposals, Sajani Samarakoon with her brand VOID in collaboration with MAS Ayathi, aimed to encapsulate the liberation that comes from being a part of something larger than ourselves.

Some promising established young designers had the chance to show their collections in the next segment.

Pubudi Lawanya’s ‘phygital’ collection ‘CODE SYNTH’ blurred the lines between virtual and reality. Each physical look seen on the runway was accompanied by its corresponding digital twin to be worn by an avatar in the Metaverse, the designs inspired by 1980s album art, iconic music idols, and vintage pilot space suits. Pubudi was awarded the Innovation in Fashion Award at the end of the night.

Winner of the Fashion and Textile award, Nicola Perera took the Cosmos as her inspiration, her showcase representing what is seen in the Aurora Borealis. Her collection was in collaboration with Orient Design.

Other designers and brands of note were Ayesha Zikker, IKIGAI, and Shavindi Wijeysooriya.

Day 3 of the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Sri Lanka 2022 had the theme New Gen.

The collection ‘Inhumanity’ in collaboration with the Bobbin Group, Freudenberg Lanka and Vilene International was designer Sesara Wanninayake’s avenue to address animal cruelty using COVID-19 as a parallel to describe the isolation of caged animals.

Exuding elegant sensuality, Ruwandhi Silva’s debut collection ‘Leela’ for the resort wear brand Kanya Leela was inspired by lingerie and 1920s silhouettes.

Nawoda Bandara showed her collection ‘No Rules Like Dreams’ inspired by her experience with sleep paralysis. The collection also incorporated postmodern architecture, alt-rock subculture, and surrealism with bold colours and elements of leather and cane. Nawoda, who also showed on Day 2, will show her collection at the Graduate Fashion Week in London next year.

Also taking the spotlight on Day 3 were Vimashini Dissanayake, Kavindhi Wanigasinghe, Somil Katuwavila, Roshita Fernando, and Amanda Munasinghe.

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