‘I was 10 and on the ill-fated ferry ‘Goshen’
'Goshen' has landed: The ferry stuck on land after the cyclone. Pic courtesy Vice Admiral Priyantha Perera
When Mrs. Nelum de Mel picked up the Sunday Times on October 22 and turned to the features (Plus) section, she found, to her surprise, an article that transported her in time.
Back to the days when she, as a ten-year-old, was taken by her parents, along with her four sisters, to Bombay, India, to see Pope Paul the Sixth, who was visiting the country to attend an international Eucharistic conference.
Memories of seeing the Pope are vivid, but she also had very strong memories of their voyage on the ill-fated ferry ‘Goshen’, for it was on that vessel’s last voyage from Dhanushkodi to Talaimannar that the family had sailed on their return home and found themselves in fear of their lives as a cyclone gathered momentum in the waters of the Indian Ocean.
The Sunday Times article about how in 1964 the Goshen had run aground as a result of Cyclone Emily and the complex naval operation mounted by the new Diving Unit of the Royal Ceylon Navy to have it afloat again was what kindled her memories. Titled ‘Operation Goshen – A chapter in the story of the Indo-Ceylon ferry’ it was an account by late Commander (E) Eustace Mattysz, sent to us by Lt. Commander Somasiri Devendra.
Reading the article, Mrs de Mel felt moved to sit down and write in her own memories of the experience of sailing on Goshen’s last voyage as a passenger ferry. On receiving her handwritten article, we went to her home in Kerawalapitiya, to learn more.
The De Mel family from Kandy, including Nelum, her four sisters and parents, along with her uncle and aunt, had taken the Talaimannar-Dhanushkodi ferry ‘Goshen’ in the latter months of 1964.
On board 'Goshen': Nelum, second from right, with her mother behind her and her sisters, aunt and uncle alongside. Her father took the picture
“That was the time Georgette sarees were in fashion, and my mother was crazy about them,” she recalls with a smile, reminiscing about how she had the saree she bought in India until recently. “I still remember the design and all that,” she says.
As her father was an engine driver with the CGR (Ceylon Government Railway), she says they were lucky to be able to travel on the night berth train, a train with full accommodation. “I don’t think people see the night berth trains anymore. We were very lucky to travel in those berths.”
It was smooth sailing to Dhanushkodi, the journey only taking 30-40 minutes but their return “took nearly 2–2½ hours. The ship was swaying so much that we couldn’t even stand. I remember we were all putting our heads down.”
“Because we were small, we didn’t feel the gravity of it, but now I dread it when I think of that,” she shuddered.
Nelum de Mel
Up to date, she remembers the places she visited as they are inscribed in her memory, like in a book. “We went to Brindavan Gardens (in Mysore), then we went to Goa, where we saw the body of Saint Francis Xavier. That is something I still remember,” she says.
“I love travelling. We have visited almost everywhere in Sri Lanka because he (her father) had his passes. I think he is the only man who made use of it to go to India because nobody knew about it. He’s the one who explored all that,” she explained.
Mrs. De Mel is also a talented musician. The family loved to sing, and she relates how her sisters formed an acapella group.
“In 1969, we formed this group, my sisters and I. We called ourselves ‘The Gay Sisters’. That has a different context now. English has changed now,” she laughed, showing us her records and a CD. “I think we were one of the first harmony groups in Sri Lanka.”
Published here is the article she sent to The Sunday Times:
The article in the Plus of October 22about Operation Goshen brought memories flooding back. My parents, my uncle and aunt, my four sisters, and I were among the last lot of passengers to sail back to Ceylon (as Sri Lanka was then known) on that fateful Goshen which was washed ashore just two days after our return.
Way back in 1964 when Pope Paul the Sixth was to attend the International Eucharistic Congress in Bombay, India, which was attended by a large gathering of participants from all over the world, my family decided we should be there. My father, an engine driver working at the Ceylon Government Railway (CGR) was able to make good use of his Railway passes as valid paid passage up to Trichinapoli in India, including the ferry service to Dhanushkodi.
So our family launched on this voyage somewhere in early December, if my memory is correct, as I was 10 years old. My eldest sister, with whom I reconfirmed some details, was 17. My memory is so vivid and fresh as I reminisce about how the train reached Talaimannar Pier and how we walked up to the ferry, which we proudly called ‘the ship’. I think we were the only Sinhalese to travel to India on that day.
The sirens blared, and the ship ‘Goshen’ began its journey. We were so excited to be sitting on an open ferry, surrounded by water all around.
The captain of the ship was so courteous as to invite us all to the upper deck to have a panoramic view. We were fascinated by the scenic beauty of the Indian Ocean. Fear was far away.
The journey ended without a hitch, as the sea was as calm as a carpet. I recall our train trip along the Rameshwaram bridge amidst a vast expanse of ocean.
Goa, Pune, Madras, Bangalore, and Bombay were some of the interesting places we visited on this trip. We attended the Eucharistic Congress so diligently organised and felt quite overwhelmed as we sat in the Sri Lanka stand and received blessings from the Pope.
After seven days, it was time for our return journey. We travelled all along by train.
I still remember sailing back to Ceylon on ‘Goshen’ as it was the beginning of a cyclone. Someone whispered that the sea was rough and things were not turning out well. The ship rocked immensely. We could not stand or sit. Dusk was setting, and I still remember the worried looks of my parents.
My sisters and I could not help vomiting and then feeling dizzy. I vaguely remember my father getting us some omelettes to fill us up, but we could not retain anything.
We prayed so fervently as the ferry sailed against the storm in a mighty effort to reach the Talaimannar pier.
After much struggle, the ferry was anchored. Lo! We walked down swiftly and relaxed back in the sleeping berths booked on the night train to Colombo.
Two days later, we learned that the Goshen was struck by a cyclone and was washed ashore.
It is heartwarming to know that the Goshen survived.
Additional reporting by
Dilushi Wijesinghe
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