Timeless style: His vision for Bawa’s space
Fate – the idea that certain events are predestined, guiding us along life’s journey –is how Shanth Fernando describes the circumstances that birthed Paradise Road –The Gallery Cafe.
“It was inevitable,” he reflects as he recounts the origins of the distinctive restaurant and gallery, which marks its 26th anniversary today, November 10. The Gallery Café’s story is deeply intertwined with its location: the former office of revered architect Geoffrey Bawa, celebrated globally as a pioneer of Tropical Modernism, who entrusted Shanth with this cherished space in 1998.
Having returned to Sri Lanka in 1987 after a stint overseas, Shanth boldly ventured into a field that had long been dominated by a select few with the launch of Paradise Road, a retail store that challenged the aesthetic norms at the time. He settled in a house designed by Bawa’s engineering partner, just a few lanes away from Bawa’s old office, known then as Number Two, and recalls often driving past it to admire the property.
Shanth: The man behind it all
Through their shared appreciation of design, Bawa and Shanth formed a connection, with the architect admiring the monochrome design aesthetic of Paradise Road. The pivotal moment came at a party hosted by a mutual friend, where Shanth gathered the courage to ask Bawa about his plans for the property, proposing to lease it. Bawa agreed to show him the space and when an interested party failed to show up, the opportunity was sealed. “That’s why I say it was meant to be,” emphasises Shanth.
Asked by Bawa about his intended plans for the property, Shanth relayed his vision of running a gallery with a café attached instead of a café with a gallery attached, earning Bawa’s seal of approval with the architect himself designing a pavilion for the space. Remarkably, four trusses Shanth had acquired years before fit the space perfectly, a serendipitous alignment he considers further proof of fate.
Classic touches: A massive pot and candle chandeliers add to the cafe's ambience
Shanth’s transformation of Bawa’s office into an intimate and luxury café was driven by a desire to maintain Bawa’s architectural legacy while allowing his own artistic style to be woven within. “I’ve always respected his sensitivity and maintained everything as it was. We have never changed the warmth or the space because I made a commitment to him and said, ‘Sir, I will run this place to your credit.’ Today it is a stepping stone to a Bawa tour.”
A designer himself, Shanth’s personal style philosophy of ‘taste, timeless, style’ combined with his ‘less is more’ approach permeates the Gallery Cafe space. “What I design complements this space. I like the warmth it gives,” he explains. His involvement in designing The Gallery Café was hands-on from the beginning, and over the course of 26 years, he has subtly refined the space without altering its core atmosphere.
The introduction of candle chandeliers, lit each evening, and the commissioning of large vases in homage to Geoffrey Bawa, who used similar objects as focal points in his Lunuganga estate, are just some of the thoughtful touches added.
Spotlight on local art: The gallery at Paradise Road
Shanth’s attention to detail is evident in every aspect of the café’s design, from custom-made chairs to its signature black and white décor. Carefully blended classic and contemporary elements ensure the space remains timeless, preserving the Bawa sensitivity. Each touch would have received Bawa’s approval, Shanth feels. “He knew that whatever I put in here was with a lot of respect,” says Shanth. “I am very loyal to his taste, and I’m very careful as to what I introduce into this space – that it doesn’t contrast, that it blends in with the space.” This cohesion even extends to the colours of the fish that inhabit the pond at the entrance.
Primarily a gallery, The Gallery Café holds the distinction of being the first to showcase work by all of Sri Lanka’s acclaimed contemporary artists, such as Jagath Weerasinghe, Chandraguptha Thenuwara and Jagath Ravindra. Shanth carefully selects the artists to ensure their work aligns with the aesthetic, saying, “we’ve never had an exhibition with portraits; we’ve never had one with landscapes because it doesn’t suit the space.”
An avid art collector, a feather in his cap is his discovery of Pakistani artist Ali Kazim during a SAARC artist camp. The budding artist accepted Shanth’s invitation to exhibit his work at the gallery in his first solo exhibition, catching the attention of art enthusiasts and collectors. This exhibition led to the artist making a name for himself with collections worldwide.
Though widely recognised for his entrepreneurial ventures, Shanth’s roots lie in hospitality. He started with his first guesthouse in Mount Lavinia at just 20, followed by establishments in the Netherlands, New Zealand and Australia. “Hotels have always been a part of my life,” he says, noting that managing food and restaurant operations felt almost instinctive; “where food is concerned, where maintaining a restaurant is concerned, it’s almost second nature.” Shanth and his late wife, Anki – both self-proclaimed food lovers, crafted a diverse menu for The Gallery Café, which has largely remained consistent over the years.
His philosophy is simple: “I’m a person who returns to a restaurant to enjoy a dish I loved before,” he explains, crediting this consistency as a cornerstone of the café’s enduring appeal. “That is the secret that kept my restaurant going.”
The Gallery Café’s menu is an eclectic blend of Eastern and Western influences, showcasing favourites like lemongrass and ginger chicken, curried coconut-crusted modha, Malacca fried rice, steaks and traditional Sri Lankan rice and curry. Notably, it was the first fine dining restaurant to introduce black pork curry to its menu, which remains a top-selling dish.
Anki, who was excellent at desserts and cakes, crafted a dessert menu that has become a feature of the café with a most extensive selection. Among the highlights is Via Paradiso, a decadent creation originally made for their eldest daughter Annika’s birthday, featuring layers of meringue, tiramisu cream, coffee liqueur-soaked cake, chocolate ganache, and black cherries. Other beloved desserts include the rich Chocolate Nemesis and the tangy Lemon Meringue Pie. Each dessert reflects a personal touch and commitment to quality that has become synonymous with The Gallery Café experience.
The Gallery Café’s enduring success over 26 years is a testament to Shanth’s steadfast commitment to quality. “People doubted we would last,” he reflects, acknowledging the challenges of Colombo’s fast evolving and competitive restaurant scene, where many establishments quickly fade. Yet, The Gallery Café has not only endured but also continues to receive accolades from international publications like the Condé Nast Traveller, East Magazine Singapore, and Asiaweek. The restaurant has also been repeatedly honoured at the annual Tourism Awards, where it has won the prestigious title of “Best Themed Cuisine Restaurant” multiple times.
That it has remained beloved of both locals and visitors, is clearly due to Shanth’s vision and unwavering dedication through the years.
Searching for an ideal partner? Find your soul mate on Hitad.lk, Sri Lanka's favourite marriage proposals page. With Hitad.lk matrimonial advertisements you have access to thousands of ads from potential suitors who are looking for someone just like you.