16th November 1997

Destruction looms large

The mist lifted momentarily clearing our path for a while, as we travelled through the picturesque Knuckles range. From the summit, it was a sight to behold with all hues of green evident. A chilly wind blowing across our faces and a slight drizzle added to the ambiance of the moment.

In a second, before the camera was ready, the fields and the streamlets which appeared before our eyes vanished, replaced by a thick layer of fog. Such are the mysteries of Knuckles; the exemplary virgin forest nestled in the heart of Matale.

Until the British conquered Ceylon, the unusual mountain range was called the 'Dumbara Kanduwetiya' or 'Dumbara Gala' due to the thick mist which constantly enveloped the area. Its splendour has had a strong influence on the people, hence the many inspirational poems and songs written about it.

Standing 6112 feet above sea level, the Knuckles gained its name due to its uncanny resemblance to the Knuckles of the human hand with a closed fist. The Knuckles Range includes Derakulugala, Koboneelagala, Gommaneeya, Knuckles, Wamarapugala, Kalupahana, Lakegala, Galthula, Labulessa Patana and Dumbaragala.

Today, though this picturesque mountain range is facing the threat of destruction. Cardamom cultivation has become rampant during the past few years, destroying the lush beauty of the area and creating grave environmental hazards. As a result of cardamom cultivation, Knuckles is faced with the danger of earth slips and soil erosion.

Cultivation of cardamom was confined to certain areas like Kalupahana and Mahalakotuwa for a long time. But with more 'mudalalis' showing interest in the business, and more money being circulated among the people, there is enhanced interest. Cardamom, according to cultivators does not require a lot of attention, except at the initial stages when the crop has to be protected. And with the business being manipulated by a few people, the villagers end up providing them with cheap labour.

As the cultivations have spread during the last fifteen years, the forest cover has been cleared without obtaining state approval. The lands have been illegally acquired by the cultivators. Despite the claims made by the authorities that they are doing their maximum to minimize the destruction of this beautiful forest, the pertinent question is how people continue their cultivation work in broad daylight.

Minister of Forestry and Environment Nandimitra Ekanayake who is also an elected member of Parliament for the Matale District admitted that cultivation continues despite efforts to curb it. He says special teams would be soon deployed to catch those having illegal cultivations on state land and action initiated against them.

The Minister also said that there are several complaints from residents, environmentalists and others about the continuous destruction of the forests. He added that strict action will be taken against those found guilty.

But, there are cultivators or their affluent bosses who have been brought to book, with no result. The cultivations continue. On several occasions, eminent environmentalists have reiterated the importance of preserving the virgin forests to prevent future environmental hazards. Warnings have been issued that if the jungles continue to be cleared, several feeder rivulets and streams could go dry. At present, there are over 750 families who have settled in the Knuckles vicinity and within the forest area increasing the existing threat to the conserved area. In addition to cardamom cultivation, cannabis is also cultivated to a lesser degree. Herbal and floriculture is also practised by the settlers for a living, though to a lesser level. The other destructive practice is the illicit felling of trees which is causing grave environmental problems.

Poverty is what drives many to grow cardamom in order to survive. As one farmer told us, there has to be some means of living. There is no alternative employment available. "These are the very jungles where we live. It is easy to complain that we have illegal incomes. But those who employ us wield political power, and nobody resists them. If we had land to cultivate and other crops were introduced, we would not destroy the lush beauty of our own environment" one indignant villager told us. "During cultivation, a large number of trees are felled for firewood, and this is repeated when the processing of cardamom commences. This contributes to the threat of soil erosion. The wide spread cultivation of cardamom under the forest canopy has added to the ecological burdens," said a forest ranger.

In 1985, having taken into consideration the importance of the endemic flora and fauna with their unique bio-diversity , the then government through a Cabinet paper declared the Knuckles Range as a national forest reserve. Similarly, a special project to conserve the above 3,500 feet area as a strict Forest Reserve was implemented in 1988. This project was expected to look into the employment problems of those living within the range to prevent them from wilfully clearing the areas for chena cultivation and other purposes.

Many programmes including a Master Plan for Sustainable Management and Conservation of the area have been planned, but the rape of the jungle continues. Only 65,230 thousands of hectares of forest cover has been preserved in the entire South East Asian region, with an annual deforestation of nearly 1,500 hectares. The problem is worse for Sri Lanka which has only 20 % of its original forest cover remaining at present.

Bio-diversity of Knuckles: beauty by itself

Knuckles, according to environmentalists represents all features of the main climatic zones, not found in any other mountain range in the country. Scientists and environmentalists regard the 1,829 square kilometers of lush green virgin forests lying 3,500 feet above sea level as one of the world's most unique ecosystems.

The misty mountains also provide a habitat for a variety of species not found elsewhere in the world and many endangered species. Leopard, a vanishing breed of animal in the South East region is found in the Dumbara Hills. In addition, wild boar, un katussa (spear headed lizard which is endemic to the Dumbara area and not found elsewhere in the world)), pinum katussa, mukalan pala katussa, sambhur, long tailed squirrels, Indian mouse,loris and antelope varieties are also found aplenty. But with the destruction of their habitat, they are also threatened.

An area which provides all types of climatic features has naturally become the habitat of many bird varieties, including migrant birds. Over 40 varieties of birds and butterflies are also found there. Of the identified 21 endemic bird varieties, 14 are found only in that area. Of the 28 endangered species, nine are found here with three species being only found in the Knuckles. Vicious varieties of spiders and other insects are also found here, though a proper survey on this subject has never been conducted. Some of the most rare herbal plants like iruraja, Maharaja, kohomba, maha hedaya and pihimbiya and many others grow here, also several valuable trees like mahogany, teak and milla.According to forest range officers, rain is a permanent feature and owing to its setting, the area also experiences the highest rainfall in the central hills.

Three rivers which nourish the Mahaweli spring from the Knuckles summit. From the east springs Sulu Ganga, while from the north flows Kalu Ganga(in the Matale District) and from the south , Heen Ganga. In addition, there are several streamlets which flow into the Mahaweli come from the Knuckles summit. Some of the feeder rivulets have already dried up with others facing a similar fate. According to 'Dumbara Surakinno' an NGO founded a decade ago to preserve their natural habitat, the Knuckles Range has had 41 natural waterways springing from it, out of which only 16 remain.

It is believed the majority of these waterways have dried up during the last forty years.

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