Buddhism upheld

A journey through Myanmar and its rich culture

By Upali Salgado

One hundred years ago in 1898, Rudyard Kipling wrote in a letter "This is Burma, and it will be quite unlike any land you know about". His views were pregnant with meaning. The Burmese people for centuries have enjoyed a crystal clear or unadulterated Theravada Buddhist culture though being of several ethnic groups of Tibetan-Burmese origin. They speak a single common language of their own and enjoy a common culture called Bamah - Sanchin or "Burmeseness". This serves as a simple code of behaviour.

It follows that, they all have an unfailing standard respect for the Buddha, His Dharma, and the Sangha (Order), their Teachers and parents too (in Pali "maatha-pithu") also for the Pali Buddhist scriptures. In the 676,000 sq. metres of land hemmed in by lofty mountains lies the rich green "rice bowl", through which the great river Irrawaddy flows, giving life to her 48 million people. This beautiful land, having vast resources of teak plantations, petroleum and gems (mainly Rubies and Diamonds) is studded with bell shaped, gold gilded stupas (called Pagadas).

Our own relationship with Burma, which in ancient times was known as "Swarna-Bhoomi" (the Golden land) and also as Myanmar, dates to 1803, when a historic event took place. The Most Venerable Welitara Gnanawimala Maha Thera of Balapitiya, sailed from Galle to Amarapura-desh and brought with him a valid Upasampadha (Bhikkhu Higher Ordination) received by him at the Swarana-Guha Sina. This ordination, later received official state recognition and patronage by the colonial British Governor who placed his Common Seal to the Act of Appointment.

The emergence of the new Nikaya (Chapter) in the history of Ceylon, ushered in a Buddhist cultural renaissance with the study of Pali Suttas by scholars - Ven. Rajaguru Waskaduwe Sri Subbuthi Mahanayake Thera, Prof. Childers, Prof. W. Geiger, Ven. Kataluwe Gunaratana Mahanayake Thero Prof., and Mrs. Rhys Davids, Ven. Hikkaduwe Sri Sumangala Mahanayake Thera, F.L. Woodward (Principal of Mahinda College) and the Most Ven. Agga-Maha-Panditha Polwatte Buddhadatta Mahanayake Thera, to mention a few.

Life under military rule

Myanmar has been under military jack-boots for over 25 years. In this background, several twelve foot tall statues of a Maitree Buddha seen standing with upraised right hand in the Abhaya-Mudra, in every Temple courtyard, is understood to mean "Have no fear". In recent years, the cry for democratic rule has been voiced aloud, spearheaded by Nobel Prize winner Aung San Suu Kyi (the daughter of the Father of the Nation) and her political party (NLD) National League for Democracy.

Despite this rather unhappy political situation, Buddhism continues to attract males. At least once in their lifetime they clean-shave their heads and enter the Monastic Order to meditate, even for two weeks. Females too do the same, though not all. A spectacular sight at dawn is to see hundreds and hundreds of Bhikkhus walk in silence slowly in single file with heads bent low, carrying their alms-bowls to accept "Pinda-patha" (dhana) along streets, and from cottage to cottage in the countryside. The Buddhist outlook is also seen at street junctions, and in small country townships. Large earthernware pots (Sinhala: "Pintharu") are filled with water to quench the thirst of wayfarers. There is no sign of Western cultural pollution. Colourful sarongs are worn by all men (teachers, businessmen, taxi drivers, doctors) whilst mothers and sisters would always wear the smart lungi with a high necked jacket and slippers. No female would dare wear a skirt and shirt top, a pair of jeans, or even a Victorian ankle length skirt. Women of all ages apply on their faces Tanaka, a soothing vegetable paste, much like Sandlwood paste to protect their skins from the heat.

The Swedegon Pagoda

The great Swedegon Pagoda (Stupa) in Yangon with its gold gilded body towering into the skyline is 326ft. tall. It is a religious symbol of strength and serenity. This Pagoda is visited each year by thousands to pay homage to the relics within it. At night when illuminated, it is a riot of colour. In 1768, an earthquake damaged the Crown of the Pagoda, and it was soon restored with a new diamond studded orb and a protecting chattya (umbrella) made of pure gold. This national religious symbol houses the Buddha's hair relic, brought to Burma over 2000 years ago, by two merchant brothers named Tappassu and Balluka of India, after they had given the Buddha a dhane of Honey Cakes (as told in Buddhist scriptures). A sight that will never be forgotten, is to see thousands of devotees sit on the courtyard each day, meditating with bead chains in their hands.

Another interesting shrine is the Shewemyethman Buddha Image, in the Pyay District. It is perhaps the only image in the world where the Buddha is seen to wear a pair of spectacles! Traditionally, it is believed that about 400 years ago the Queen had dreamt of God Sakkha indicating that a Buddha image be built at the particular spot. Accordingly, the King and Queen had built the Buddha Image. Shortly thereafter, the King had lost his sight. The King, Duttabaung had consulted a Sage who advised the King to offer to the Buddha Image a pair of gold-rimmed spectacles. This was done, and the King regained his sight.

At the Sezigon Pagoda in Bagan (400km from Yangon), where there are 2217 large and small Pagodas, built in the 12th century, within an area of four square miles,there is an image of the Buddha which shows Him holding in His fingers a red hot ember. Ancient Burmese folklore states that the Buddha had visited hell to see the sinners. He then saw a great fire, and a red hot ember flew and was lodged in His robe. The Buddha had taken the red hot ember in His fingers and thought to Himself thus: "If I put this hot ember into the ocean, the ocean will dry up and all fish would perish. Therefore, with compassion towards all living beings, I shall crush it with my own fingers."

Spirit worship

Spirit worship in Myanmar predates Buddhism, and is still practised throughout the country. Burmese people believe that animistic spirits or "Nats" (as referred to by them) inhabit lakes, mountains, trees and fields. Therefore small "Nat" shrines are built all over the country. They also believe that there are 37 "nats" who are descendants of Kings, Queens, Generals and Soldiers, who had committed suicide, or had met with violent deaths. Mount Popa (400km from Yangon) is an ancient, now extinct Volcano where there are "Nat" shrines and Temples. Spirit festivals are held there regularly. Most Burmese people see no conflict between "Nat" worship and Buddhism, possibly because Buddhists believe that, when reborn (or re-become) one can be born in the Deva (Godly) world, in the human world (manussa), in the animal world (tirachanayoni), in the Peta (spirit or shades) world, or in Hell (niriya).

Myanmar, "the forgotten land", is a cultural paradise where traditional values are upheld; and her people brought up in isolation for years have a distinct way of life. What Rudyard Kipling wrote, still holds good!

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