The legacy of a League

By Ayesha R. Rafiq

What started off years before the first World War as simple coffee mornings to entertain the wives of the British Governors, planters and the European elite in the country who had much time on their hands, has quietly but surely, almost a hundred years later evolved into one of the oldest institutions founded by our colonial fathers.

Not much remains of their legacy. Yes, the tea estates still remain, as do the few regal buildings such as the Mount Lavinia hotel, and the tall sentinel trees, majestic throw- backs to a bygone era, that line avenues such as Bauddhaloka Mawatha.

But the Colombo Ladies League is a more animated and nostalgic reminder of the people who once inhabited this island and the lifestyles that governed them.

Founded in 1912 by Lady Clifford, the wife of one of the country's first Governors, the main purpose of the League was to provide charitable donations in the form of garments, which the ladies made themselves, for British soldiers and patients in hospital.

Its members came from the cream of society, many of whom have since been immortalised with many of our roads and popular companies being named after them.

Peruse the records of the early Annual General Meetings and among the names on the attendance list will be those of Lady Barnes, Lady Reid, Lady Montgomery, Lady de Soyza, Mrs. Shockman, Mrs. Hayley, Mrs. Brown, Mrs. Rockwood, and Mrs. Coppleston whose name one of the Houses of S. Thomas College bears to this day.

In time, the League's workload began to get heavier and the extra sewing called for extra hands. It began to employ talented women who could help the effort, to exquisitely embroider tea cosies and handkerchief cases, layettes, nightdresses and children's clothes which would be put up for sale and the money used for charitable purposes.

As Sri Lanka won independence and the Europeans left, the League was gradually taken over by the locals, who understood and were interested enough in the art to ensure the League's survival and output of quality work.

Among the many volunteers and well wishers of the League was the sister of late President JR Jayewardene's wife, Dulcie Abeywardene. But this takeover has not meant that roots have been forgotten. As a sentimental reminder of days gone by, traditionally the patron of the League has always been the Governor's wife, and after independence the wife of the British High Commissioner.

There are about 60 women who are now employed by the CLL. The attraction is that it is not a 9.00 to 5.00 job but one that can be attended to at home, in the spare time between household chores and at one's leisure. It is an enjoyable way for the women to make use of their talent, while at the same time supplementing the family income.

The nature of the work requires extreme skill and talent, the sort which can only be passed down from mother to daughter. Given the age of the League then, it is not unusual to find that several generations of families have worked for the League which today too employs at least two mother and daughter combinations.

Many come from schools such as St. Anthony's Convent, where good embroidery skills were considered a must on the repertoire of eligible and accomplished young girls.

The women are mainly of the middle aged group. 'Young girls are not attracted to this kind of work, because of the garment factory culture that has sprung up. As a result of this, most of them also don't know how to do the kind of intricate embroidery we require,' says one of the volunteer workers of the League, who has herself been with the CLL for over two decades.

One of the oldest members, Colombage Don Charlotte, whose daughter also works for the CLL has been with the League for over 50 years. She remembers a time when there were many more 'suddi nonas' than Sri Lankans.

They are paid by the piece and on average manage to take home a salary of about Rs. 750 a week, but Charlotte remembers that in the late 1960's you were lucky if you got to take Rs. 25 home. She says that in 1969 the women would be paid 50 cents for a handkerchief and about Rs. 100 for a smocked children's dress, nowadays you could get about Rs. 30 for a handkerchief and about Rs. 350 for a dress.

The prices are a little above the market price, obviously worth it to those who value the dying art of hand embroidery and smocking, judging by the number of customers the League attracts. A tea cosy and serving tray set will cost about Rs. 750, varying with the degree of work on it, while a set of table mats will come to about Rs. 2000. A smocked nightdress and housecoat will cost between Rs. 800 to 1000, while a child's smocked nightdress will cost between Rs. 200 and Rs. 300.

The beautifully smocked children's dresses for those from one to eight years cost between Rs. 400 and Rs. 750, depending on the size of the dress, while the baby shirts are about Rs. 175 each. In addition there is also a selection of embroidered handkerchief cases for Rs. 150 and sandwich tray covers for over Rs. 200.

But there is another reason the goods cost so much. It's because the women pay a much higher price for the work they put out, the cost to their eyesight. Given that much of the work is done in their spare time during the evenings, the women's sight soon fails them. The League however helps them out here, as there is a fund which contributes to buying spectacles for the women, and also gives loans which are deducted from the monthly wage. For the old faithfuls like Charlotte who have put in more than 20 years service at the League, there is also a pension when they retire. There is also a trust fund which members started long ago, and is now collecting interest, which could be used for an emergency.

The products range from organdie table cloths and trolley cloths, dresser sets and handkerchiefs to smocked children's clothes, blouses, patchwork quilts, shoe bags and fridge cloths.

The designs are pretty and dainty and come in soothing pastel colours, and there is a wide range which ensures satisfaction all around. There is also some historic appeal because most of the designs are those originally embroidered by the colonial wives way back in the 1910's and 1920's, with a few additions made during the passage of time.

So in addition to the charming work, you are also being treated to a rare peek at the tea and dinner tables they used to lay to entertain guests with. This is possibly the appeal to the tourists who also stop by at the shop now and then.

If you are still not satisfied however, the League is always open to customer orders. For example, if you have a particularly dainty dinner set which you would like to complement with pretty table decor, then you can ask for the table cloth, place mats and more to be worked in the design of the crockery. You can also place orders for children's dresses, aprons and so on.

But there is something more of much historical interest, other than the embroidery, which the League has managed to preserve. The records of the Annual General Meeting minutes date right back to the League's beginning in 1912.

These minutes hold a treasure of information which allows us a backward glance into the colonial lives and times. For example, at a 1922 AGM held at the Colombo Garden Club, there is recorded a suggestion by Mrs. Barnes to 'consider some celebration of the then Prince of Wales, Edward VIII's visit to patients in hospital', which was to take place on April 20 1922 at the Town Hall.

Some time later, comes another suggestion that cases of tuberculosis among workers, in those times a highly infectious disease for which there was no cure, be reported immediately.

The Colombo Ladies League, to put it very bluntly is now an embroidery shop, but such a wealth of history lies behind it that one cannot but hope that its survival will continue well beyond its centennial year.

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