That church in the Valley of Wolves

By Dr. K.D. Paranavitana

The Portuguese and the Dutch had the practice of naming the places they occupied in Sri Lanka (Ceylon) according to the traditions of their own countries. The Portuguese tradition was enriched with the tenets of Roman Catholicism whereas the Dutch followed more liberal ways. Accordingly, the portuguese named the places mostly after the saints associated with Roman Catholicism.

The area known as Gintupitiya in Colombo is named by the Portuguese after St.Thomas. But as a result of mispronunciation the place became known as Gintupitiya. When the Dutch occupied Colombo, Gintupitiya and its surroundings came to be known as Wolvendaal (Valley of Wolves). The area east of Wolvendaal was called Bloemendaal (Valley of Flowers). Both these place names are still being used. Several variations of the name Wolvendaal, had been in use during the British times including Wolfendhal and Wolfendahl.

The Wolvendaal Church now celebrating its 250th anniversary is on a higher elevation with a panoramic view, overlooking the Colombo harbour and the fort. The Dutch chose to erect this magnificent church in Wolvendaal to replace the old Roman Catholic Church, the Church of St. Francis, located in the former Gordon Gardens in the Colombo fort.

The name was derived from the place name Wolvendaal. John Penry Lewis in his work List of Inscriptions on Tombstones and Monuments in Ceylon (1913) explains; "a marsh or a swamp frequented by jackals. The hill on which the church stands must have taken its name from the surrounding low ground."

The Wolvendaal church is the oldest Protestant Church in use in Sri Lanka. This marvellous monument has been repaired on several occasions as it is threatened by environmental pollution. The Dutch Reformed Church and the Royal Netherlands Embassy in Colombo in association with several other organisations have taken the initiative to carry out much needed restoration work to the building.

Construction of the church started in 1749 during the Governorship of Julius Valentijn Stein van Golleness (1743-51). His initials J.V.S.V.G. are placed on the front light, perhaps to remember his contribution to the building. The style of the building is Doric and the foundation takes the shape of a cross. The church, therefore, is referred to as the 'Cruis Kerk' in Dutch.

The high roof in the middle of the building resembles a dome resting on strong walls of approximately five feet thickness built of kabok of unusually large size with coral and lime plaster. The original dome with its covering of blue Bangor slates had to be replaced due to the destruction that occurred in 1856 as a result of lightning. Later the slates were replaced with an iron covering. The iron covering, however, needs frequent repairs probably due to the salty sea breeze.

J.L.K. Van Dort, one of the most famous artists and painters of 18th century Sri Lanka, records that, "The dome or rather the bell -shaped octagonal cupola was composed of lead and above it was a brazen lion with a crown on its head and bearing a sword in one hand and seven arrows, representing seven United States of the Dutch Republic as seen in the Arms of Holland appearing on the coins used in Ceylon before the introduction of British Indian currency. This dome was struck by lightning sometime in the 50's. The molten lead poured down to the ground and the masonry was shattered. The molten lead was surreptitiously sold to Moorish traders by the Sexton at the time. He was dismissed for this".

The construction of the building was completed eight years after 1749 and dedicated to the public on March 6, 1757 with a special service conducted by Rev. Mathias Wirmelskircker and six other predicants. The retiring Governor Joan Gideon Loten (1752-57) and his successor Jan Schreuder (1757-62) were present at the occasion. The centenary and bi-centenary were celebrated in 1849 and 1949 respectively, giving thanks to the Faith that was responsible for the building of the church.

The interior arrangement of the church is remarkable. The pulpit, lectern, normal pews and the pew used by the Governor and elders and the rest of the furniture add grandeur to the church. The chairs made of ebony, calamandar and nedun, were presumably donated by the members of the church congregation in the17th and 18th centuries. Johan Wolfgang Heydt, a German who served under the Dutch East India Company in the island provides the following account as to how the chairs of different designs became property of the Wolvendaal church. "The women are accustomed to sit on chairs which they at all times have carried behind them by the slaves. . and when Church is over, they are taken home again. Each one takes care, not only to have a fine seat, but that it be provided with a stately cushion". Accordingly, it would have been possible that the chairs were, in turn, gifted to the church on the demise of their owners.

One of the most valuable belongings of the church is the set of silver used for communion service. It contains a large wine toureen, large plate, four small plates, four chalice cups and two alms dishes. This beautifully carved set of silver is even now in use. The baptismal font which was originally used in the old church in Colombo Fort was a gift of the Governor Rijcklof van Goens (1660-61, 1663, 1664-75) in remembrance of the baptism of his daughter Esther Celonia. Governor Van Goens named his daughter who was born in Ceylon by combining the name of her mother and the name of the country, Esther Celonia. The inscription on the font when translated reads: This bowl is presented to the Colombo Church by Rijckloff van Goens and his wife Esther Salomne in commemoration of their daughter Esther Celonia van Goens who was the first to receive Holy Baptism therefrom. Born on the 14th and baptised on the 17th June in the year 1667. Weight [of the bowl] 206 1/4 Rupees.

The 'kerkhof' or the churchyard of the Wolvendaal was used to bury Dutch officials who died in Colombo. It was a practice of the Dutch to place a tombstone in the church or its yard inscribed with some important bio-data of the person who had died. Made of granite and carved with beautiful designs of motifs and the heraldry of the family to which the deceased belonged, some tombstones are paved on the floor of the church and some are on the churchyard. The tombstones which were at the old church in the Fort were ceremonially transferred to the Wolvendaal Church in 1813. A description of this transferring ceremony is published in the Ceylon Government Gazette of September 2,1813.

The area where the present Dutch reformed consistory building and the Police Station in Pettah stand, was another burial ground used by the Dutch. In 1958, the Ministry of Home Affairs granted permission to the General Consistory of the Dutch Reformed Church to build the present consistory building on the former burial ground. The tombstones which were lying on the burial ground were plastered to the boundary wall and in recent years they were removed to the Wolvendaal Church where they are preserved in good condition. Some were placed for exhibition in the Dutch Period Museum in Prince Street, Pettah. The oldest in this collection of tombstones dates back to 1662.

The belfry which belongs to the Wolvendaal church, is another monument worth mentioning. Any person who visits Wolvendaal, may look for the bell of the church. It is not found within the premises but is hanging on a tower presently known as Kayman's Gate at the eastern end of the Main Street. This bell too has a long history dating back to Portuguese times. The inscription on the bell gives its date as 16th century. It was orginally hung at the Franciscan Church in Kotte. The Dutch during their rule, removed the bell and placed it at the Dutch Reformed Church in Borella. Subsequently, it was placed at the Kayman's gate to communicate the time of the church service to the residents of Pettah and the Fort.

The Wolvendaal Church is a national monument of dual parentage, an outstanding example of combination of two cultures and traditions; the Dutch and the Sri Lankan.

(The writer is attached to the Rajarata University)

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