Dine with spice

Hot and Spicy Fish with Tamarind

Her book Burst Of Flavor, - the fine art of cooking with spices has won her much acclaim and was listed in the 2001 Spring Summer new books, University of Hawaii Press. With over 200 recipes, this book combines the foods of her South Asian childhood and her discoveries with the western gourmet in new and imaginative ways.

Currently an Associate Professor and Chief Instructor at the Culinary Institute of the Pacific at Kapicolani Community College, Cooray's speciality is "blending Asian spices and herbs with Western ingredients to create flavourful and aromatic dishes that please both the eye and the palate." The fact that Ohelo Dining Room in Hawaii that is operated by her students is always sold out for dinner, speaks of her repute and popularity.

Born in Moratuwa, Cooray is considered a pioneer in her field. Having started concocting curry seasonings when she was only nine, she learnt the art of balancing spices and bringing out the best in each. She was often called upon to pitch in when her family entertained which involved preparation of foods from the Far East and the Middle East as her father's business associates were from those places. "I know how to blend the spices so I can create different curries to suit different tastes," she says. 

Her interests in cooking led her to the Cordon Bleu School of Cookery in the early 70's. She then went on to the National Bakery School, London, where she won the prestigious Burton Trophy for her pastry expertise, the first woman to receive such an award and finally to La Varenne Ecole de Cuisine, Paris.

Her career started with her being the personal chef to the late tobacco heiress / millionairess, Doris Duke at her Honolulu Estate. With no budgetary restraints she was able to experiment with the best of everything. She was then made Executive Chef at the Kamaaina Suite, a private dining room of the renowned Honolulu Restaurant, The Willows and later at the Banyan Gardens. This for her was an honour as the field then was largely a male domain. During this period she was awarded three consecutive travel/holiday awards. All along she also conducted workshops in cake decorating, chocolate work and East Asian cooking.

Eminent personalities whom Cooray has cooked for include Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Prince Charles and our President Chandrika Kumaratunga.

Published in April 2001, 'Burst of Flavor' is a book of multi-national cuisine having recipes ranging from soups to desserts with tantalizing pictures, expertly arranged. She describes flavours and aromas at each cooking stage, accompanied by lively anecdotes. Food history is provided along with serving suggestions with substitutes and alternatives that can be used. Noted wine expert Richard Field contributes guidelines for wine selection.

"It is a cookbook on spices all of us have been waiting for," says Winnie Meyers, former Chef to the House of Lords and past Chairperson of The Cookery and Food Association of Great Britain. Proud of her achievements, Cooray thinks that "one day there will be one cuisine. The world is smaller and everyone will know everything and eat everything."

Some of Kusuma Cooray's wonderfully innovative dishes

Tomato-orange soup

Soup - (page 30)

Garnish

1 orange
2 cups crushed ice
4 sprigs of orange leaves

Directions

Slice the oranges 1/2-inch below the stem ends and save tops for garnish. Scoop out the oranges, removing all the orange pulp and most of the pith. Save orange juice for the soup (about 1 cup). Wash the orange shells, wipe, wrap in plastic wrap, and put them in the freezer.

For soup, core and chop tomatoes. Heat oil in saucepan, add onion, and cook for 4 minutes to soften. Add tomatoes, cinnamon, peppercorns, ginger, and stock. Simmer until tomatoes are soft, about 8 minutes. Remove from heat and pass the soup through a sieve, pressing with a wooden spoon to help get most of the tomato pulp. Return soup to the saucepan. Season with the reserved orange juice, sugar, and salt and white pepper to taste. Chill until ready to serve.

To make the garnish, peel the orange zest extremely thin and cut into a very fine julienne. Blanch and rinse in cold water.

Hot and Spicy Fish with Tamarind - (Page 68)

Seasonings for Sauce
1/2 cup sliced yellow onion
2 green chillies, seeded and sliced
1 sprig curry leaves or 1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon minced ginger
2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed

To Finish Sauce
2 teaspoons paprika
2 teaspoons cayenne pepper
2 tablespoons Tamarind Juice
2 cups water
Salt to taste

Wilted Greens
1 teaspoon olive oil
2 cups spinach leaves or greens of your choice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Cucumber Salad

1 cucumber, peeled and cut into long slivers with seeds removed
1 tablespoon sliced shallots
1 green chilli, seeded and sliced
1 tablespoon coconut milk
Fresh lime juice to taste
Salt to taste

Garnish
8 chives
4 sprigs of chive flowers

Directions

Cut fish into 4 serving portions, and set aside.

Heat oil in a deep, medium-size sauté pan. Add fenugreek, black mustard and cinnamon, and fry on high heat until seeds start to splutter, about 1 minute. Add seasonings and cook for 2 to 3 minutes or until onions turn a light golden colour. To finish the sauce, stir in paprika and cayenne pepper, and cook a few seconds. Stir in tamarind juice and water, and season with salt to taste. Simmer for 15 minutes.

Place fish in the sauce (sauce should cover the fish). Cover pan and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from heat and let stand for 5 minutes before serving.

Heat oil on medium heat in a pan and put in the greens with salt and black pepper to taste. Turn the greens in the hot pan for 2 to 3 seconds to wilt.

Mix cucumber salad ingredients with lime juice and salt to taste.

Creme fraiche (Page 243)

2 cups heavy creme
1/2 cup plain yogurt
1/2 cup buttermilk

Place creme, yogurt and buttermilk in a saucepan and heat to 98 F. Pour into a sterilized glass container. Cover with a kitchen towel and leave in a warm place (by the stove) for 15 hours. Thereafter, refrigerate for 24 hours. Remove the thickened top part, which is the creme fraiche, place in a sterilized container, and refrigerate. Discard the liquid left at the bottom. Creme fraiche keeps well for 4-5 days. (yields 2 cups)