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Timeless
spectacle "The priest
bringeth forth a painted stick, about which strings of flowers are
hanged, and so it is wrapped in branched silk, some part covered,
and some not; before which the people bow down and worship; each
one presenting him with an offering according to his free will.
These free-will offerings being received from the people, the priest
takes his painted stick on his shoulder, having a cloth tied about
his mouth to keep his breath from defiling this pure piece of wood,
and gets upon an elephant all covered with white cloth, upon which
he rides with all the triumph that king and kingdom can afford,
thro all the streets of the city. But before him go some 40 of 50
elephants, with brass bells hanging on each side of them, which
tingle as they go." Picture the
Kandy Esala Perahera as described by Robert Knox, the sailor in
the service of the British East India Company on the ship 'Ann',
who was among 16 captured by a Kandyan Disawe at Kottiar in Trincomalee
in 1660 and detained by the King. Knox was detained for nearly 20
years. In his book , 'An Historical Relation of Ceylon', first published
in 1681, Knox continues his description of the 'Cande Perahar'. "Next,
follow men dressed up like gyants, which go dancing along agreeable
to a tradition they have, that anciently there were huge men, that
could carry vast burthens, and pull up trees by the roots &c.
After them go a great multitude of drummers, and trumpetters, and
pipers, which make such a great and loud noise, that nothing else
besides them can be heard. Then followeth a company of men dancing
along, and after these women of such castes or trades as are necessary
for the service of the pagoda, as potters and washer-women, each
cast goeth in companies by themselves, three and three in a row,
holding one another by the hand; and between each company go drummers,
pipers and dancers. "After
these comes an elephant with two priests on his back: one whereof
is the priest before spoken of, carrying the painted stick on his
shoulder, who represents 'Allout neur Deo', that is, the God and
maker of heaven and earth. The other sits behind him, holding a
round thing, like an umbrello, over his head, to keep off sun or
rain............." Obviously Knox
was referring to the days when the Kandy Perahera was essentially
a Hindu ceremony when it was held exclusively in honour of the four
'devales' - Natha (Guardian of the City), Vishnu (Protector of the
Land), Kataragama (God of Victory) and Pattini (Goddess of Purity).
In fact, the 'kap situveema' - the first traditional act symbolising
the beginning of the Esala festival when an 'ehela' tree is cut
and planted in the precincts of each 'devale' - is done as a token
indicating that the procession of each 'devale' will be conducted
according to tradition. To this day, during the first five days,
the Perahera is limited to the devale premises. Records indicate
that it was only during the reign of King Kirti Sri (1747-1782)
that the Perahera took its present form giving prominence to the
Sri Dalada Maligawa. It happened when the Siamese monks who were
invited by the King to restore the 'Upasampada' found the domination
of Hindu customs and alerted the King on the need to change the
complexion of the Perahera. The 'Ceylon Calendar' reported that
"to appease them and to assure them that this festival of the
Perahera was chiefly intended to glorify the memory of the Buddha
and convince them, the King gave directions that the great relic
should be carried foremost in the procession". Listing out
sixteen items described as "the many and beautiful treasures
of the Temple" (of the Tooth), C. Brooke Elliot in 'The Real
Ceylon', refers to "the casket in which the Tooth Relic is
taken in Perahera", as the first in the official list. "It
is of gold and covered with cat's eyes and other gems". Item
number three mentions "seven caskets in which the Tooth Relic
is deposited". The list is interesting. Among other items are
a solid gold betel stand ('dalmura tattuwa') covered with jewels
presented by the mother of King Kirti Sri Rajasinghe, one small
flower tray made of gold given by King Kirti Sri, one large flower
tray made of gold and silver presented by Governor Sir Edward Barnes
to a Kandyan chief, a silver spittoon, two golden vessels to hold
water ('kendiya'), one 'kuda darshana' and one 'maha darshana' -
long chains with pendants attached, and several golden bowls ('patra'). Elliot describes
the Perahera: "It is a fine sight to see the specially chosen
elephant enter the Temple Gate, and majestically ascend the steps
to receive upon his gaily-caparisoned back the Sacred Shrine, which
is taken in procession through the streets of Kandy, with a great
multitude of worshippers adoring. Kandyan dancers, torch-bearers,
musicians, and flag- bearers, and perhaps a hundred elephants make
up a stirring processional picture never to be forgotten. The festival
lasts for days." More recently,
the 'Handbook for the Ceylon Traveller' says: "Down the ages
men have described the perahera but only those who have seen it
realise that it is an experience which words fail to convey. "There are elephants majestic in appearance and caparisoned with cloths of gold and trappings which make them look like gigantic jewels on the move. There are richly-dressed dancers who seem to defy the laws of motion. There are drummers whose resonant throbbing rises above the tinkling feet of the dancers, the sounds of conch shells and the crashing of brass symbols. There are the Nilames (custodians) of the devales attired in glorious garb like those worn by their ancestors. There is the fragrance of flowers and joss sticks. It is a gorgeous spectacle, which as it moves along the streets makes the crowds packed to capacity gasp, some in wonderment and others in awe. The devout raise their voices in invocation and homage." |
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Copyright © 2001 Wijeya Newspapers
Ltd. All rights reserved. |
Esala
poya.
