Mirror Magazine

 

Once upon a wrinkle
By Esther Williams
Before: Your face shows frown lines between eyebrows, horizontal forehead lines and crows feet or smile lines around your eyes.

After: Lines have been dramatically erased and you look younger and feel more refreshed.

Sounds amazing doesn't it? It's not magic, it's BOTOX! Available for the first time in Sri Lanka, the medicine that dramatically softens facial expression lines is used cosmetically all over the world. It's a quick fix treatment that guarantees a more youthful and refreshed appearance almost instantly. All this, it is reported to do without surgery, scars and recovery time.

In the West people apparently throw Botox parties. A physician visits houses where five to ten people gather and without much ado gives them their Botox treatment. The high street facility is a 10-20 minute lunch hour procedure for many, says Gillian Moolchand, a UK national, who handles the clients in Sri Lanka for visiting cosmetic physician from India, Dr. Rashmi Shetty.

"When we frown, smile or laugh, we contract muscles in our face into folds of skin that form wrinkles. Over time, making repeated facial expressions form lines and creases that become deeper and more permanent, making you look older or stressed," says Dr. Rashmi Shetty. In some people especially, the lines are so deep that it makes them appear to frown even when they are not actually frowning.

Botox was initially given to people suffering from migraine and injected into spastic children when they got painful spasms, to alleviate pain in their muscles. It was also used to treat squints. Physicians, who administered this, noticed that their patients not only recovered but also looked better physically, as their wrinkles seemed to have disappeared.

Made by Alergen in Ireland, Botox is a medicine. Botulinum (Botulinum toxic type A) is a purified protein extracted from bacteria, which is diluted and then injected using disposable syringes with very fine cosmetic needles, in very small quantities on areas that requires treatment. Facial expressions occur when the brain sends a signal to the muscle tissue. Botox blocks impulses from the nerve to the tiny facial muscles that are related to expression lines. It relaxes the muscles that form lines and keeps them relaxed for months.

Soon after treatment, no facial massage or sleep is allowed for four hours. However, you can wash, use make up and go straight to work. Further there is no medication or prescription drugs to be used after treatment.

The full effect is seen after seven days. To maintain it, repeated injections are required 2-3 times a year. Lines will gradually revert to pre-treatment appearance only after 6-12 months. Botox works only on specific areas treated and does not travel throughout the body or affect other muscles.

Stars and celebrities around the world use Botox. The safety profile of Botox is considered to be excellent. The most common side effects are tenderness or bruising at the site of injection. In some cases Botox can migrate and cause temporary weakness in nearby muscles. In rare cases there can be a slight and temporary drooping of an eyelid or eyebrow lasting 1-2 weeks.

"It has to be administered by a well trained physician," reiterates Dr. Rashmi Shetty, MBBS, FRSH Cosmetology (UK) who visited Sri Lanka last month. Having done her basic medical degree in India, she went on to specialise in Cosmetology in Chester, UK and today runs a clinic in Mumbai, India. She is currently also a consultant with Lakme-Levers. During the past four years of her practice she has had a mixed set of clients comprising of celebrities, businessmen and women, actresses and models.

As clients continue the treatment, Dr. Rashmi says that they would only require a shorter dose, less frequently. "It never becomes worse than it was." She has seen over 30 patients during this initial trip and intends to return to Sri Lanka in the future when there are more clients lined up for her and for the follow-up.

"Science has moved on and Medicine has advanced tremendously over the years, resulting in an increased life span. Doctors are able to replace so much in the body. Why not something that does good to the face?" Gillian asks.

Happy with the response from both men and women in Sri Lanka, Gillian says that those who formerly went to the UK or Singapore are now able to get their BOTOX shots here. Clients are assured of total confidentiality.

How safe is it?
Here in Sri Lanka Botox is used by neurologists in surgery and reconstruction of defects in faces deformed by paralysis, nerve disorders/neurological conditions and facial spasms. It shows good results but is temporary. It is occasionally used by plastic surgeons.

"However it is not so common in this country for two reasons," says Plastic Surgeon Dr. Romesh Gunesekera. "Asiatic skin does not age as fast as Caucasian skin, as our pigmentation protects skin from UV radiation. Skin damage is therefore slower and is manifested much later, by which time women are not really bothered. In white skin however, skin ages faster." Secondly, the drug is very expensive - Rs.30000 for a vial of 100 units.

Abroad, the registered drug is commonly used, although it has not been formally approved for cosmetic use for the simple reason that it has not shown complete effectiveness. It is easy for a physician there, to have lined up five or more clients at one go, to use up contents of a vial.

Dr. Gunesekera warns, "Too much, too deep or in the wrong place can affect muscles that control normal eye functions such as opening or closing the eye." Since the effect lasts for around 11 months, the patient may have to be uncomfortable for that length of time. In addition, every patient may react to it differently. Hence clients should seek a good and experience physician for treatment.


Which soap is best?
We are bombarded with a variety of claims in ads for many kinds of soaps (and "soapless" cleansers, i.e., synthetic detergent- based bars and liquids). It is important to remember that the basic purpose is simply to cleanse the skin; most soaps will do this efficiently. Soap-and-water cleansing removes most substances from the skin surface, including contaminants such as dirt, oily soils, bacteria, and cosmetics and natural skin products such as oils, dead cells, and sweat.

The choice of one soap over another depends primarily on personal preference, unless a physician has recommended a particular type of soap for a skin problem. The type of skin you have may influence your choice, as soaps for oily skin or medicated or abrasive soaps promoted for acne can be too harsh for dry skin. If your skin is oily, you might prefer a regular toilet soap or a soap formulated for oily skin over a superfatted soap, as the former generally are more efficient cleansers. Of course, you don't want to wash your face with an abrasive soap designed to remove dirt and grime from hands.

You should be able to find a soap that you like at the price you want to pay. Here's a brief description of the different types of cleansing bars and liquids to choose from.

Superfatted soaps contain more fatty materials such as cold cream, cocoa, butter, neutral fats, or lanolin. Some people with dry skin find that superfatted soaps are less drying than regular toilet soaps. This may be because superfatting a soap actually makes it a less efficient cleanser, and this may be desirable if the skin is dry. But don't expect such a soap to take the place of a moisturizer after cleansing. While some superfatted soaps claim to "moisturize" the skin by leaving behind a residue of fat or cream, it is hardly likely that a cleansing agent can accomplish two diametrically opposed tasks in a single washing operation, by removing soil and debris from the skin and depositing a fat or cream on the skin. Other residue will stay behind too, and this residue may be irritating.

Soaps for oily skin generally contain more surfactant (soap or detergent) so they can do a more efficient job of removing excess oil from the skin. They may be too drying for other skin types, especially dry skin.

Transparent soaps, like superfatted soaps, contain more fat, as well as glycerin. Unfortunately, most transparent soaps do not lather as well and melt faster than regular soaps. They also tend to cost more, because the manufacture of transparent soaps is slower and most costly. No evidence exists that transparent soaps are milder than regular milled toilet soaps, but some people with dry, sensitive skin seem to prefer them.

Many "soaps" today are actually synthetic detergent bars or liquids. Soaps are made from animal and vegetable fats, while synthetic detergent bars are made from petroleum derivatives.

The primary advantage of detergents is that they do not interact with the minerals in hard water that form a soap scum.

There is no evidence that detergent-based bars are harsher or milder than soap bars. But you shouldn't worry that using a detergent-based toilet bar is comparable to using laundry detergent on your face. The synthetic detergents used in skin cleansing products are mild.

All the liquid facial "soaps" contain at least some synthetic detergent, as it is not possible to formulate elegant liquid cleansers that are 100% soap. The choice of liquid over a bar is a matter of personal preference; they cleanse equally well.

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