Galle
goes gaga
By
Esther Williams & Aaysha Cader
The
carnival of cricket is on. Last week cricket fever hit Galle as
tourists flocked in by the thousands. Hotels were fully booked,
homes in Galle Fort opened up for accommodation and match commentaries
blared throughout the day as the southern city revelled in a cricketing
fiesta.
Said Dave from
the English county of Lancashire, "Galle is a terrific location
for cricket!" adding that it was only second to Cape Town in
terms of scenic beauty. With the Galle Fort, overlooking both the
sea and the cricket ground decked with Lankan flags flying in the
breeze, his statement didn't seem in doubt. The southern city, at
least for the five days of the First Test against England, was transformed.
The cricketing fiesta brought the Galle Cricket Club alive with
music and revelry from all quarters save a few enclosures closer
to the grandstand. With the Lankan 'Papara' band blaring at one
end of the stadium, the Englishmen seemed to be making quite a din
themselves.
The
scorching heat did not deter England's official cricket cheering
squad, the 'Barmy Army' from doing their song and jump routine in
the open stands. "Ah la la la….----'s got a wicket,'
they chorused. Complete with theme song, waving flags and 'Barmy
Army' t-shirts and caps, gulping beer that went around in the beverage
backpacks, their spirits were high. Victor Flowers, their vociferous
cheerleader was in action conducting the singing of "Oh Engg..land,
Eng.. ga…land.."
Many of them
from cricket and football clubs like Bristol Rover and Enfield,
travelled around for matches England played in, depending on their
funds, time off from work and the possibility of combining the cricket
with a holiday.
Sporting an
English flag on her top, Kirstie, a relief teacher has previously
been to Australia with the Army, and is delighted to be on tour
in Sri Lanka. Asked her opinion on the fact that Lankans visiting
Britain had to face fingerprinting, a visibly startled Kirstie replied,
"Is that so? But that's awful 'cause they love us here!"
The rest of the Army were blissfully unaware of the regulation too,
as Flowers quipped, "What's that? Something out of X-Files?"
In Galle city,
the hustle and bustle of the match certainly affected security arrangements
as well. Said Police Constable Wijeratne of the Sooriya Police Division
of the Galle District, "Security has definitely been tightened
for the match." Around 1000 police officers from other areas
had been especially deployed for the match, making a grand total
of 1500 policemen manning Galle city during the five-day Test. Local
vendors meanwhile had a field day, with stalls springing up in every
available space around the ground. Asoka, standing behind well-arranged
rows of 'saruwath' said that he came over to the Cricket Club area
especially for the match. Sales were better than on normal days,
"as tourists buy these drinks as well," he grinned.
With the heat
and humidity, any form of thirst-quencher was quite welcome and
the cooling effect of king coconut, or the Lankan thambili worked
wonders on the throat. An older thambili vendor revealed that he
had brought his entire stock down to the Fort as it was fast-selling.
A good number of fast food stalls including KFC were also set up,
complete with tables, chairs and canopy protection from the sun.Amidst
the match commentary blaring in Sinhala, lines of Lanka's ever-present
three-wheelers were at the various entrances to the ground. One
tourist found a perch atop a three-wheeler, as a driver disclosed
that their pockets were generally Rs. 500 to 1000 the heavier due
to the cricketing mania.
For Galle's
youngsters, it was a chance to be part of the action on the field
even if it meant being seated on the groundsheets all day to throw
back the balls that reached the ropes. *Chaminda of St. Aloysius
College, Galle was excited as he and 14 of his team-mates from his
school's Under 14 cricket team had been hired as the ball boys for
the day. Each day, boys from different schools in the district were
given the opportunity, he said. Eighteen other students from Deniyaya
and Pitabedda areas had also come to witness the match, along with
their master-in-charge. "Deniyaya is a rural area, and they
lack facilities," he said. "So this is an opportunity
for the little ones to see the big guys play."
Germans Manuel
Brhel and Kathrim Hennig had accompanied a dozen sixth-graders all
the way from their international school in Bentota. Having seen
the match from the stands, they decided to perch on the Fort, which
offered a spectacular bird's eye view of the cricket and the city's
bustle, free of charge. Sporting elaborately painted faces, a number
of local spectators opted to skip afternoon tuition class and watch
Murali's cameo knock on Tuesday, but tourists were also aplenty
on the Fort. As for spectators within the grounds, Sri Lanka Cricket's
ticketing officer Priyantha Madapatha says that there were approximately
10,000 each day.
Galle Fort
was a story of its own. To add colour to the cricketing fiesta the
Galle District Chamber of Commerce and Industry rented out stalls
selling a variety of traditional Lankan paraphernalia such as handicrafts,
spices, tea, hats, sculptures, masks as well as food and beverages,
and of course hats for protection from the sun. At night, the entire
Fort was spectacularly lit up.
Ray Illangakoon,
media manager for Sri Lanka Cricket revealed that fire dances, devil
dances, live bands and other events laid on especially for the touring
English cricket fans, went on late into the night. Houses in the
fortified city of Galle were in much demand. A resident said that
locals rented out rooms for Rs. 2500 per night, rooms for which
they normally charge Rs. 500/-per night. Others rented out houses
or a floor of their homes for as much as Rs. 50,000 for the three
days!
Hiran Cooray,
Chairman of the Sri Lanka Chapter of Pacific Asia Travel Association
said that most of the international visitors had combined a holiday
with the match and their tour operators had booked rooms for them
in hotels on the southwest coast all the way from Kalutara to Koggala.
In anticipation of the influx, many guesthouses were also prepared
to accommodate the additional guests and Union Jacks lined the entrance
to most hotels.
At the Unawatuna
Beach Resort the party atmosphere began on November 30, before the
Test match, with all rooms fully booked. The hotel's General Manager
Janaka De Silva, said entertainment was arranged each night - live
entertainment, DJ shows with award winning BBC Radio1 DJs Bobby
Friction & Nihal, reggae and dance groups and beach parties.
UBR's pub especially
converted into a 'Cricket Pub' called 'Howazat' was a hit. Theme
Nights featured the popular Australian Steak amongst others and
the buffet décor was of course, cricket. What's more, an
art exhibition was organised with the same theme that displayed
sculptures made of waste - bottle caps, wrappers, etc. Those who
missed the match could watch the day's telecast (from 7.00 pm to
1.00 am) on a giant screen on the beach. There was much merry making
during the beer drinking competition that both in-house guests and
others participated in. Everyone’s heading to Kandy and Colombo
for the next two tests, but can these two cities match up?
Barmy
history
A
cheer group comprising English cricket fans travelling overseas
to support their team, the Barmy Army was formed on the Ashes Tour
of 1994/95. Described during the Aussie tour as 'barmy' because
they were spending lots of money supporting a side that at that
time wasn't winning, the 'Army' has followed the English cricket
team on all its overseas tours since then. "Anyone is welcome
to join," said one of its members.
The 'Army' has
its own songbook, together with the Barmy Army theme song and has
been a registered trademark since March 1995, marketing official
'Army' merchandise. It also organizes special rates for tours via
its website and has exclusive paraphernalia, the more famous of
which are the caps and the special Barmy Army t-shirts with the
Union Jack, cartoon and the dates and venues of each match on the
tour. Plans are now underway to celebrate their 10th anniversary.
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