Unfinished
business at Tantrimale
Wijeya Newspapers Ltd. will hold
an Aloka Pooja at the historic Tantrimale temple from June 1-3,
in view of Poson.
By D.C. Ranatunga
A sedentary Buddha, colossal in stature, carved in the rock, the
panels on either side of it prepared centuries ago but yet uncut
centuries later: a reclining Buddha of giant proportions, the finishing
touches yet to be made: a stock of wedged pillars and coping stones,
beaded edges cut with great care, all lying in the forest where
they were quarried; a stupa crumbling with age on the crest of the
highest wave of stone, and leading to a flight of steps that begins
but does not end; a stone cubicle atop another pinnacle, a sentinel
watching over the panorama; ruins everywhere, caves and inscriptions
here and there. This is Tantrimale.
This
is Tantrimale, where carvings that rival those of the Galvihare
await the sculptor's finishing touches; where eight of a flight
of steps are cut while a ninth remains half cut; where pillars and
stones, carved and uncarved, lie where they were quarried, awaiting
buildings to be erected.
This
is Tantrimale, as it was on that day when the word came that an
army from the coast was on the march, the day when the people fled
leaving their task unfinished.
So
Subbiah Muthiah wrote 45 years ago in the Times Annual 1959. Few
went to Tantrimale then. It's a different story today. The motorable
road from Anuradhapura has made it a popular place of worship. Pilgrims
do the 35-mile drive and enjoy yet another marvel of the days of
the Sinhalese monarchs.
The
magnificent gal talawa is a treat. The walk around the caves and
places of worship is not tiring. The climb is easy. Many are the
places to see. Walking to the right and reaching the top of the
rock, one meets the Bodhi, one of the first eight offshoots (ashta
palaruha bodhi) of the original Bo-sapling brought during the time
of King Devanampiyatissa.
The
Mahavamsa mentions that when the Bo-sapling was brought by Theri
Sanghamitta, "the village of the Brahman Tivakka" was
one of the places where the party rested on their way to Anuradhapura.
As a token of remembrance, an offshoot was presented. Tantrimale
was then known as Tiwakka Bamunu Gama.
Looking
down one sees the rock cut image of the sedentary Buddha, almost
eight feet high. Behind the image is a makara thorana. One sees
a pond in the distance. According to a resident monk, it never runs
dry. Closer to the pond are several caves including one used as
the poth gula (library). Inscriptions with Brahmi letters have been
found in the caves.
A
museum houses the artifacts found on the premises. Coming round
to the left, one approaches the rock cut reclining Buddha, 40 feet
in length. Opposite the statue, on top of the rock is the dagoba.
Walking to the left of the dagoba, one reaches the newly-built budu-ge
where final touches are being given to the paintings. An evening
stroll round the Tantrimale complex is a pleasant and satisfying
experience.
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