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Left behind in time
Amalie Kvame Holm visits Vietnam, a country with a lost world charm
Vietnam has 3450km of coastline and is a paradise for lovers of the sea but what else is there of the communist country ravaged by war? Endless charming villages, a stunning landscape of rice paddies and delicious coffee for a start.

The brutal past of the country has naturally influenced Vietnam in many ways. It is poor but thousands of tourists still visit every year and the economy is now growing.

About 82 million people live in Vietnam and around 3.5 of them in the capital. Hanoi is a beautiful city different from other South Asian capitals. It's not modern but has a pleasant landscape of parks and lakes, charming old streets and colonial houses.

There are plenty of museums and monuments worth a visit; the Temple of Literature being one. Ho Chi Minh Museum and the mausoleum close by will give you a good impression of the life of the late president.

Most of the daily life takes place on the streets. Go for a walk early morning and you'll see Vietnamese families cooking their breakfast on the pavement. That is after their daily exercise in the parks.

Known to be an efficient people they get up early in the morning and head for the nearest park to get their daily workout before it becomes too hot. Some do tai chi, some jog and groups of people do aerobics and other activities.

Watching them is amazing, it's like the entire city has a secret life before the sun comes up. Kids, grown-ups and old people all gather and some bring small radios to encourage the crowd.

Afterwards you can sit down at a street café and have a Vietnamese coffee and listen to the quietest city this writer has ever been to. The coffee (ca phe phin) is special too, strong, sweet and with a hint of vanilla. It takes time to prepare though: A metal container with ground coffee is perched on top of a cup and hot water is poured into it, slowly seeping through to the cup. It's worth the wait.

Noodle soup is a common breakfast as noodles and rice are the basics of every meal. Delicious seafood is a natural part of the Vietnamese cuisine and a visitor shouldn't miss the spring rolls served with peanut sauce.

If you head northwest from Hanoi you'll reach the former hill station Sapa with spectacular scenery and handicrafts markets. Hill tribes like H'mong, Dao and Kinh people live here and you can go trekking to Fansipan, the highest mountain in the country. Don't miss a boat trip in Halong Bay south of the capital; the 3000 small islands with beaches and natural grottoes are the perfect place to take a break from city life.

If you have the time, going by train is a good way to see the Vietnamese countryside with beautiful green paddy fields and colourful fishing boats along the coast. The railway stretches from Hanoi all the way to Ho Chi Minh City.

Make a stop in Huè, probably the most historically interesting city in the country. The remains of the old citadel built by Emperor Gia Long in 1804, contain the Imperial City with many ancient sights. This is where the Forbidden Purple City is located, now a World Heritage site. On can spend a whole day here; the endless quiet gardens make a good place for a picnic between the sightseeing. Many sights can also be reached by boat on the Perfume River.

Hoi An is another picturesque place along the coast, often referred to as 'the city of tailors' among tourists. An incredible number of Hoi An's inhabitants has specialized in the art of making clothes and many people visit because it's the best place for shopping in Vietnam.

There is a special atmosphere in the narrow streets where no cars are allowed and most of the buildings are hundreds of years old. You'll find a street bistro on every corner offering delicious seafood. Visiting Hoi An is like travelling in time but don't forget your purse: lots of shops selling handicrafts, shoes, clothes and art are sure to tempt you.

The World Heritage site, My Son, can be a daytrip from Hoi An. It was an imperial city during the Cham dynasty but although reduced to ruins today due to American bombs it's still worth a visit for those interested in architecture and history. Other cities include Dalat, a beautiful city in the central highlands popular among honeymooners.

Nha Trang is said to be the best place for those interested in sun and partying and you'll meet hordes of backpackers here. White sand beaches and clear water make snorkelling, diving and fishing popular activities.

Ho Chi Minh City is a big bustling city and the economic capital of Vietnam. In contrast to Hanoi the city has an international feel to it and one can alternate between temples, pagodas, museums and expensive malls. Nature lovers will find Vietnam interesting, as there are several national parks. Phong Nha-Ke Bang is the most famous one as it's one of the largest limestone regions in the world and includes grottoes, caves and lush forestland. Cat Ba Island must not be missed with its beautiful coral reefs, coastal mangroves, lakes and waterfalls, beaches and tropical forests.

The best way to get to Vietnam is to arrive by plane in the capital Hanoi in the north or Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) in the south. Budget travellers can also take the train from the south of China or go by bus from Cambodia.

The wounds of war
Millions were killed in the war between Vietnam and the US. Interestingly, the war is referred to as 'the Vietnam war' in the west and 'the American war' in Vietnam. Ho Chi Minh is probably the most famous Vietnamese as he led guerrilla troops fighting against the French colonial power and declared Vietnam an independent country in 1945. This led to violence and it took nine years before the French military was defeated in 1954. The country was divided into two zones: the communist north and anti-communist south supported by the US. This quickly led to an armed struggle and American troops arrived in Vietnam in 1965. The bloody war went on for eight years before the Paris Peace Agreements were signed and the US soldiers were withdrawn. But it wasn't until 1975 that Saigon capitulated to the communist-led north.

Unfortunately peace didn't come to Vietnam, as both Vietnamese and American soldiers were involved in the ongoing war in Cambodia. In 1979, after a year-long border war between Vietnam and Cambodia, the Vietnamese invaded the Cambodian capital Phnom Penh and forced the Khmer Rouge government of Pol Pot to retreat from the city. The Vietnamese forces didn't pull out of Cambodia until 1989 and this was the first time after World War II that the country was not at war with any nation.

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