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A charming corner of India
By Rohan Canagasabey
To some, Goa conjures up images of a western hippie or backpacker retreat, whilst to others, perhaps as a place worth visiting. Goa is a tiny Indian state, not actually one town as commonly perceived, located on India's western coast. Within its roughly 60 miles length by 25 miles width are found Portuguese-era churches and houses, lush paddy fields set in beautiful countryside, Hindu temples in local architectural style and several beaches with nearby accommodation. To round off this unique combination, the local population (of 1.35 million people) are not only friendly, but having had 400 years of Portuguese rule until 1961, also exhibit a fusion of Indian and Portuguese customs.

Goa can be reached by train in 12 hours heading south from Mumbai or alternatively there are direct flights to its airport from most major Indian cities. Not surprisingly it is a favourite holiday destination for Mumbai residents, though during peak holiday seasons visitors from as far as Delhi are not uncommon. Add this to the high concentration of western backpacker tourists and you get the ingredients for its party reputation. However, Goa does not just cater to party revellers at its several beaches, as there are many Catholic festivals during the year, whilst its cultural centre of Panaji town plays host to a Hindi film festival in December.

The legacy of its Portuguese colonial era is vividly evident in presently uninhabited Old Goa, a few kilometres east of Panaji. Old Goa has numerous functioning Catholic churches of this era, with at least one being presently unused, going by its bare interior. The most revered church and also a world heritage site, is the Basilica de Bom Jesus, which contains the mortal remains of Saint Francis Xavier, Goa's patron saint. One of the many churches frequented by locals and visitors alike is St Cajetan Church, built in the second half of the 17th century and modelled after the original design for St. Peter’s Church in Rome. Viceroy's Arch, beside the old port through which many new settlers passed by, is another landmark.

The point of interest in Panaji town is its old quarter. However, most locals will direct you to Old Goa, as the quaint buildings in their midst appear to be accepted as a norm. You can easily walk through the few streets that comprise the old quarter, experiencing Portuguese house architecture in an Indian setting.

Goa however, is not just about the Portuguese colonial era. Its countryside, if you head in the right direction, is also worth venturing out into. Around the town of Ponda, southeast of Panaji, are several Hindu temples (and elsewhere too). The temples themselves, such as Shri Mangueshi and Shri Shantadurga are interesting, as they have a different architectural style to those here in Sri Lanka or South India. But the journey, either by hired motorbike - as in my case - or car, enables you to appreciate the beautiful countryside and the villages that you pass along the way.

My experience of Goa's party reputation was a ticketed Rave (which the authorities allow during peak holiday periods) in an open-air setting on a hilltop near Anjuna beach. The rhythmic music at the rave party produced by a western DJ saw tourists together with a splattering of locals, dance away till the small hours amidst discarded beer bottles.

A more fitting finale to your holiday in this unique and charming corner of India, would be one of the hour-long night-time boat cruises in Panaji, where you can dance away to the accompaniment of more familiar sounds, but in a stage managed fashion, or simply enjoy the atmosphere as I did.

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