The marvel
of the perahera
The Festival of the Sacred Tooth by Prof. J.
B. Disanayaka Illustrated by Nihal Sangabo Dias Published by Sumitha
Publishers
Price: Rs. 175
The back cover says this colourful little booklet
is for children, but anyone, young or old, picking it up is sure
to find it difficult to put down. With the historic city of Kandy
the focus this week as the annual Kandy Esala perahera winds its
way through the streets, we are given an opportunity to take a closer
look at the perahera’s ancient traditions that hold thousands
enthralled each year. For instance, how many of us are aware that
more elephants at the perahera signify more rain, for they symbolise
rain clouds, megha, that gather just before a downpour?
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Author Prof. J. B. Disanayaka, Emeritus Professor
of the University of Colombo says he hopes that ‘The Festival
of the Sacred Tooth’ will “educate a new generation
of Sri Lankans and foreigners on the meaning of this festival.”
The booklet is the second in his continuing series to highlight
the wonder that is Sri Lanka, the first being ‘The Festival
of the Sun God’.
The booklet explains in simple language many diverse
aspects of the importance of the Sacred Tooth Relic, which “is
considered the most sacred relic, because it had the closest physical
contact with the sounds of speech of the Buddha, who expounded the
path to Nirvana, the Eternal Bliss, over a span of forty five years,
travelling across the length and breadth of the Indian sub-continent,”
the author explains.
While detailing its religious and cultural significance,
he makes mention of its immense political import too. It answers
questions that come to mind such as why a religious relic is housed
in a palace (maligawa). Because the people came to believe that
the righteous King also has the power to cause rain in due season,
and therefore it was kept in the King’s palace in his possession,
and how in time, the people came to believe that he who possessed
the Tooth Relic had the right to rule the land.
Prof. Disanayaka explains in detail the many aspects
connected to the perahera: the golden casket of the Sacred Tooth
Relic, the role of the Diyavadana Nilame, the arrival of the Sacred
Tooth Relic in the island, the kings and monks who gave it importance,
and then the perahera itself, the pageant of the Four Gods, and
those without whose contribution it would not be so spell binding
– the drummers, whip crackers, dancers and the elephants.
He writes too of the rituals followed so religiously each year –
the planting of kap and vali yak mangalle or vali yak netuma, which
signals the end of the perahera season.
With his many years of experience and wealth of
knowledge, Prof. Disanayaka’s explanations are clear, concise
and studded with fascinating detail, like the meaning of the kumbal
perahera held on the first five nights, where he says, “What
kumbal perahera means is a matter of guess. Some say that the word
kumbal here refers to the mud-wasp who goes around an ant-hill to
collect mud to build his house. Like the kumbala, this pageant also
goes only around the devales without much ceremony,” unlike
the Randoli perahera which parades on the main streets of Kandy.
A word about the illustrations is essential, for
Nihal Sangabo Dias, the well-known artist has vividly recreated
the splendour and colourful spectacle the perahera presents.
Unfortunately some spelling errors mar the presentation
somewhat, but this little book is surely invaluable for children,
who will delight in discovering many aspects of this legendary pageant
and an illuminating guide to those others who value the country’s
ancient traditions.
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What the people have to say
Ceylon to Sri Lanka: Troubled Paradise by Daya
de Silva
Reviewed by Neil DeVotta
Published by Sarvodaya Vishva Lekha Publications, Ratmalana (2006)
Hardly a week passes without Sri Lankans learning
that the country’s politicians or their henchmen are yet again
engaged in bribery, murder and violence. Irrespective of the parties
in power, the criminal activity and maladministration continue with
impunity, plunging the island into further anomie and hopelessness.
With the country’s institutions wallowing in nepotism, favouritism,
inefficiency and corruption, some have even suggested Sri Lanka
is on the verge of being a failed state – a characterisation
I disagree with for various reasons. But this troubling state of
affairs could be labelled “political decay,” and Daya
de Silva’s new book exemplifies the frustrations and anger
among some of the island’s citizens.
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Most would agree that the rot began in 1956 when
politicians like S. W. R. D. Bandaranaike put their political ambitions
ahead of the country’s best interests. In describing the commotion
the proposed Sinhala Only policy had unleashed, Bandaranaike once
told an interviewer, “I have never found anything to excite
the people in quite the way this language issue does.”
The country continues to pay the price for such
cavalier opportunism. What the Sinhala Only Act (and subsequent
policies designed to ensure the majority community’s socio-economic
upward mobility) gradually did was create an ethnocentric state.
That has now been achieved, albeit at great cost to the country’s
relative polyethnic and multireligious unity.
Numerous explanations have been vouchsafed for
Sri Lanka’s post-independence ethnic saga. But one explanation
arguably triumphs the rest: when a country’s institutions
cease to act dispassionately towards all its citizens irrespective
of ethnic and religious origins, and those most adversely affected
tend to be a territorialised minority, the marginalised segment
may decide to go its own way. There are, of course, stages to this
dangerous development, and the Tamils have run the gamut: from protesting
peacefully against anti-Tamil practices; to seeking a compromise
federal solution through S. J. V. Chelvanayagam’s Federal
Party; to dealing with the LTTE’s terrorism. But only ideologues
and apologists for successive governments deny that Tamil nationalism
and its subsequent terrorism as exemplified by the LTTE are reactionary
phenomena. The Tigers were not born; they were made. They were made
by the ethnocentric policies perpetrated by opportunistic and unprincipled
Sinhalese politicians.
The majority of the Sinhalese populace initially
tolerated the injustices heaped on the minorities, as they benefited
from the state’s illiberal policies. But illiberalism –
a situation obtained when the fundamental tenets of liberal democratic
governance get undermined – cannot be compartmentalised, and
it was only a matter of time before illiberal governance affected
the entire island. The country has, consequently, not only suffered
from inter-ethnic conflict, but also from intra-ethnic, inter-religious,
inter-party, and intra-party violence. One ought to also add class
conflict to this list. In short, the illiberalism that was instituted
to target Tamils (both Indian Tamils and their Sri Lankan cousins)
has now spread throughout the island. Over two decades of ethnic
violence has ensured Sri Lanka’s Tamil community will never
again be what it was; but neither will Sri Lanka.
In a real sense, this is what the protagonists
in Daya de Silva’s book bemoan! As one person interviewed
for the book notes, “There is a belief among the Sinhala people
that when a stray black cat crosses your path, terrible times await
you in your future. That black cat has (now) walked across the entire
island” (88).
The author has interviewed numerous persons over
a period of time, including relatives and friends, to articulate
the concerns and experiences of ordinary and not so ordinary citizens.
The book, however, is tilted towards those who are part of Sri Lanka’s
upper middle class, and this inevitably elicits nostalgia for a
Sri Lanka that once was to their liking and advantage. Every generation
romanticises the “good old days”, although those good
old days, in reality, may not have been all that good. There is
an element of this in the book. But much of the book’s commentary
deals with people’s recollections and perceptions of why Sri
Lanka has undergone ethnic strife and political decay. In this regard
the citizens interviewed here are often on the mark, with their
comments representing a powerful indictment against those responsible
for mal-administering the island.
Post-independent Sri Lanka has been mired in ethnic
violence, even as it has had to negotiate continued uneven development
thanks to Sirimavo Bandaranaike’s autarky and J. R. Jayewardene’s
open market policies. The subsequent income disparity among the
classes, rise of the JVP and intra-Sinhalese violence, illiberal
democracy, the supposed unethical conversions to Christianity, renewed
ethno-religious intolerance, and challenges stemming from globalisation
have only complicated matters, and these themes keep coming up in
the book. The mundane issues surrounding them catalogue complaints
and grievances that nearly all Sri Lankans can relate to.
This book is part autobiographical, part journalistic.
Daya de Silva skillfully weaves her own experiences travelling and
living in Sri Lanka with the commentaries of her interviewees. She
lets her subjects speak. Sri Lankans, when provided with the opportunity,
especially, to discuss politics, can be brutally honest and even
irreverent. This makes the book unique among recently published
volumes in Sri Lanka.
The book mistakenly notes that the Nonaligned
Summit was held in Sri Lanka in 1971 (76). The correct year is 1976.
Likewise, one interviewee claims that Mrs. Bandaranaike made a national
appearance on television when she was prime minister in the 1970s
to instruct how to cook “Chinese sticky rice” (170).
This is impossible since television was introduced to Sri Lanka
only in 1979, two years after Mrs. Bandaranaike was thrown out of
office. The innovative income generation programme instituted in
Bangladesh is the Grameen system, not the Praveen system (87). These
minor errors notwithstanding, this is a book that many ought to
enjoy and also profit from reading; for ultimately it is a frank
commentary on the state of the island by some of its citizenry.
When the author told one of her sources she wanted
to title the book Lost Paradise, the woman retorted, “Never
to be regained” (182). It is a laconic testament exemplifying
how many Sri Lankans contemplate their country’s future. Perhaps
the author is a little more optimistic, and hence the subtitle Troubled
Paradise. Either way, it takes supreme faith to believe that this
island’s extant political decay is reversible.
(The reviewer is Asst. Professor,
Political Science Department, Hartwick
College, New York.)
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Collecting a little piece of history
Visions of an Island – Rare Works from
Sri Lanka in the Christopher Ondaatje Collection
By Neville Weeraratne
“Everything has a meaning, and everything
has a reason. The very personal aspect of collecting is, I think,
what makes each collection unique. Mine engulfs me. Ghosts, memories
and relics of a very distant, disappearing world. A world that refuses
to forget, but a world that heralds a different future. What's past
is prologue.”
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So says Christopher Ondaatje in the Foreword to
‘Visions of an Island – Rare Works from Sri Lanka in
the Christopher Ondaatje Collection’ authored by Neville Weeraratne.
The discerning reader is now able to enjoy this lavish production
thanks to Visidunu Prakashakayo, distributors of Ondaatje books
following the successful launch of ‘Woolf in Ceylon’
last year.
In an Introduction to the book, J. Robert Knox, Keeper, Department
of Oriental Antiquities – British Museum after outlining a
brief history of Ondaatje's life story, (he calls Ondaatje “a
complex character, who brims over with talents, facts, ideas and
charm, has an astonishing store of energy”) takes the reader
through the rich contents. He creates the right mood for the reader
to enjoy the book by portraying the building, where the material
is housed – a manor house in north Devon restored to its early
Victorian splendour. In what he calls “an isolated, romantic
house overlooking the Bristol Channel,” Knox takes you through
the “enormous entrance hall with a high beamed interior, coupled
with a secret upper room reached by a kind of trap door in the ceiling
of a study, which is lined with antique maps of Ceylon.” The
collection of 14 maps is presented in the book in chronological
order starting with a rare woodcut by Ptolemy (1486) to an original
hand-coloured engraved map by Ottens firm (1745). The write-up mentions
how the country was known to the Greeks in classical times by the
very ancient name of Tamba-panni, which they gradually changed to
Taprobane. The Arabs (8th-11th centuries) called it Sailan, which
later changed to Seylan, Zeilan and Ceylon.
The huge collection of daggers and swords, according
to Knox, contains some “very fine examples of what are uniquely
excellent weapons.” Nine pages are devoted to featuring swords
and knives, the latter being described not only as weapons, but
as symbols of culture. They are used for different purposes –
for the field, for the home, for war, and for display. In the huge
collection are Sri Lankan knives and swords belonging to the 17th,
18th and 19th centuries (including ‘Piha-Kaetta’), miscellaneous
daggers, South Indian swords, and North Indian Bhuj Elephant knives.
Then there is the ‘kastanaya’ described as the national
sword of Sri Lanka, with a short curving blade and hilt ornamented
with the ‘serapendiya’, a mythical, horned, lion-like
beast with bulging eyes.
The fascinating assortment of over 50 arecanut
cutters in a variety of designs, chunam boxes, betel pounders, embroidered
betel bags, and spittoons are featured in the chapter on ‘The
Betel Cult’, which describes the practice of betel chewing
and the use of the betel leaf as a vital part in social exchange,
a gesture of hospitality and a sign of approval.
Ondaaatje's collection of Portuguese and Dutch
furniture includes great chests and majestic cupboards made out
of jak, padouk, calamander, tamarind, satinwood and ebony. The details
of brass work in these have been captured in high quality photographs.
The portraits and pictures of historical events adorning the walls
in the Ondaatje museum cover a wide range. He is in possession of
the originals of old views of Ceylon drawn on the spot by the well-known
artistes like Philippus Baldaeus, Johann Wolfgang Heydt, Carl Frederick
Reimer (famous for his water colour drawing of Governor Falck's
audience with the King of Kandy – 1772), Henry Salt, Lt. Charles
Auber and Lt. William T. Lyttleton. James Stephanoff's drawing of
the sitting of the Supreme Court reproduced as a double page spread
in the book) captures vividly the numerous types of individuals
in the court house, quite apart from the judge and the lawyers.
The chapter on contemporary painting and sculpture
gives the reader a glimpse of the valuable collection in Ondaatje's
possession. It's representative of the renowned Sri Lankan painters.
Among them are the work of Mudaliyar A. C. G. S. Amarasekera, Aubrey
Collette, the Daraniyagalas (Justin and Ranil), Richard Gabriel,
George Keyt, Ivan Peries, Sybil Keyt, Neville Weeraratne and Laki
Senanayake. Tissa Ranasinghe's ‘The Dance’ and Sarath
Chandrajeeva's portrait bust of Ven. Bellanwila Wimalaratane. Being
a member of the ’43 Group himself, Weeraratne capsules the
Group's contribution to Sri Lankan painting.
The 220-page HarperCollins publication covers
many more subjects and is superbly produced. Included in the book
is a fine 40-page account on ‘The World of Christopher Ondaatje’.
Apart from authoring the book, Neville Weeraratne has also tastefully
designed it to suit the splendour of the subject matter. It's an
ideal piece for the connoisseur.
- D. C. R.
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