Good Food: The ‘Health’ Dimension

By Antony Motha

It is unusual to see four chefs in full regalia gracing the head table at a press briefing. However, rather than spoiling the broth like the cooks in the adage do, the chefs’ presence here was appropriate, lending a touch of credibility to the proceedings. There was well-known master chef, Dr Publis Silva accompanied by Chefs Dimuthu Kumarasinghe, S Rathnapala and Arosha Jayasinghe.

Kumarasinghe, designated as Group Culinary Development Chef at Aitken Spence Hotels, has acquired something akin to an aura. He is the only person in the world to have won nine gold medals in the Culinary Olympics and Culinary World Cup.

Aitken Spence Hotels unveiled their ‘third dimension to indigenous cuisine’ this week. Introducing the concept, Ravi de Silva, consultant for Social and Environmental Management for Aitken Spence Hotels, explained that taste and presentation had long been recognised as aspects that needed attention when dealing with cuisine. Aitken Spence is now introducing the third dimension – health - at its Heritance properties at Kandalama and Ahungalla. De Silva explained, “We have got muddled up in a pickle of ingredients. It’s about time we showed the world our heritage in food.”

It is believed that there are forty spices and flavours identified in Sri Lankan cuisine. Most of them have been highly valued in both Eastern and Western systems of medicine for generations. Malin Hapugoda, Managing Director of Aitken Spence Hotels, said, “Despite its many nutritive and medicinal qualities, however, Sri Lankan cuisine has not received due recognition.”

Director Gemunu Goonewardene spoke of the huge untapped demand for health food. “Aitken Spence Hotels has the experience and reputation to launch good food with indigenous ingredients,” he said. These could replace the grills and stews that have become standard fare nowadays.

The occasion brought together several luminaries in the field of nutrition. Addressing the gathering, Dr Ananda Chandrasekara, Senior Lecturer on Nutrition and Dietetics at the University of Peradeniya, pointed out, "Eating patterns have changed for the worse. The majority of our diseases – obesity, diabetes, hypertension and cholesterol - are the consequence of an improper diet.”

Dr Vajira Senaviratne’s integrated expertise in ayurvedic and modern pharmaceutical science was in evidence. He pointed out that many Sri Lankan condiments, besides being flavouring agents that they have acquired a reputation for, also have therapeutic qualities. This ‘third dimension’ initiative is an extension of our ancestors’ belief that ‘Arogya parama laabha’ (Health is the greatest wealth).

Ten years ago, ayurveda was small, but had big potential that was tapped into. Westerners who visit Sri Lanka for a week or two of ayurvedic treatment have improved earnings from tourism. With a million tourists targeted by 2010, the ‘third dimension’ initiative will emphasise the ‘healthy lifestyle’ message. It would also extend the country’s tourism positioning beyond the beach – adventure – culture circuit.

With Maubima Lanka Foundation’s ‘Buy Lankan’ campaign having been launched recently, Aitken Spence Hotels’ move is timed perfectly to promote the sale and consumption of local cuisine.