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Pidurangala: In the midst of serenity

By Lankika de Livera

The melodious trill of the White-rumped Shama is distinct in the stillness of the forest. The swishing of leaves and the calls of the other birds of the wild add to the serenity.

In the shade under the canopy, we make our way through boulders up the stone steps – it’s a brisk half-hour of climbing.
A ruined Dagoba belonging to King Kashyapa’s era in the vicinity of the Pidurangala temple

Pidurangala is a massive rock similar to Sigiriya, said to be just four feet short of the height of Sigiriya. From certain places at a distance one can see the view of both Sigiriya and Pidurangala. Surrounding the Pidurangala temple, lie many ruined dagobas and monuments. The entry point to the top of Pidurangala is along the stone steps through the temple. It is a one-km drive from the Sigiriya entrance, through the Pidurangala Sanctuary.

According to the chronicles, in the 5th century, Prince Kashyapa who had killed his father King Dhatusena fearing retaliation from his half-brother, Mugalan, fled to Sigiriya from Anuradhapura. He searched for a safe hiding place and chose Sigiriya. Pidurangala became a monastery when King Kashyapa requested the resident meditating monks who were at Sigiriya to shift there, having built the temple and donating the rock to the monks.

Paintings similar to those at Dambulla and statues dating back to that era can be seen today at Pidurangala while some of the caves at a higher elevation have been built up with bricks with monks meditating there even now.

We keep climbing, and spot a giant squirrel sprawled on a tree branch fast asleep. Breathless we reach the huge reclining terracotta Buddha statue which lies about three-quarter way to the summit at an elevation of about 500 feet, with a natural rock roof. Though neglected, it is said to be one of the largest terracotta statues of the Buddha, dating back to the time of Kashyapa.
Flowers along the way to the top
Meditation kutis that are used now

A sea of green – the forest canopy and vegetation – spreads below, like the breathtaking view from the Sigiriya summit. A long cave to the east of the summit has been divided into three sections by walls.

Near this cave is a 7th century rock inscription which refers to the donation of gold and fields. The incumbent monks told us that Pidurangala derives its name from the Sinhala meaning of “offered gold”.

King Kashyapa is supposed to have made a golden lotus of all his jewellery and donated it to the monks here, before he left for the battle with his brother Mugalan. Kashyapa took his own life during the battle.

Many small caves used by meditating monks of bygone eras are found at this elevation. There is a stone inscription and a few inscriptions on the drip ledges of the roof of the caves. Two rock pools full of green algae lie here and we have our breakfast seated on the rock, looking at the gorgeous view before us.

The next part of the climb is quite challenging. Negotiating rubble, balancing precariously, one can finally make it to the summit. The magnificence takes your breath away. This summit, two hectares in extent, is larger than that of Sigiriya and gives a different angle to the rock fortress.

The wind whistles and tugs at you on the flat summit, which is covered by a few trees and bushes and many weeds. With the mysterious sound of the wind whistling through the thistles, the vegetation and forest canopy spreads around 360 degrees, with a few splotches of blue indicating some tanks in the distance.

No doubt King Kashyapa did not want his palace here, as access is much easier, unlike at Sigiriya. But serene and tranquil Pidurangala is a refreshing experience.

 
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