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Ball in Bali
A fascinating holiday destination for travellers around the world
By Sanath Weerasuriya in Bali
Having been to Pattaya in Thailand, Penang in Malaysia and with hands-on experience of local beaches such as Hikkaduwa, Arugam Bay, Unawatuna and Nilaveli, Bali to me sounded another beach destination.

But that image changed in a second as soon as I touched down on the silver sands of Nusa Dua, one of Bali's popular beaches. With the reputation of being the most beautiful and diverse tourist destination in Asia, Bali annually attracts almost 1,000,000 visitors from around the world.

Geographically, Bali is situated between the islands of Java and Lombok in the Indonesian archipelago. About one fourth the size of Sri Lanka, Bali stretches some 150 km from east to west, and 100 km from north to south. The tallest of a string of volcanic mountains that run from the east to the west is Gunung Agung. The highest mountain Kintamani is an active volcano, which last erupted in 1963.

Located just 8° south of the Equator, Bali boasts a tropical climate with just two seasons (wet and dry) a year with an average temperature of around 28°C.

Apart from the Hindu architecture and statues at every street corner, it has a Sri Lankan environment, so much so that with just one look out from the window, I felt more at home than anywhere else. And yes, the tight security reminded me of Colombo not so long ago with heavy security checks. After the second bomb attack on Bali in August last year, tourist arrivals showed a sharp drop, prompting the Indonesian Government to release US $ 5000 million recently to revive tourism in Bali.

The wide and gently sloping southern regions play host to Bali's famed rice terraces, which are among some of the most spectacular in the world. In the hilly, northern coastal regions, the main produce is coffee, copra, spices, vegetables, cattle and rice.

Today, the Kuta to Seminyak stretch (considered the paradise of Bali) is a major tourist destination, with hundreds of hotels including top names and star class brands, bars, restaurants and shops. Those in search of a little peace and quiet tend to head for the more sedate resorts of Sanur and Candi Dasa on the east coast, or Lovina in the north. Nusa Dua, on the southern-most peninsula of the island, houses many five-star hotels.

The central village of Ubud, in the hilly region of Gianyar, has also blossomed as a tourist attraction and is now considered the artistic and cultural centre of Bali.

The two beach sites of Kuta and Legian have been a major draw for more than 25 years, offering cheap accommodation, Western food, great shopping, surf, sunsets and riotous nightlife. Though, the events of October 2002 shattered the idyll, these beaches are buzzing once again.

Everybody looking for some action and fun in the evening goes to 'Kuta' which nowadays covers the area extending about seven km north from the original village of Kuta and includes Legian, Seminyak and even Basangkasa.

Here you will find most of the better entertainment places offering everything under the sun. Night life in Bali starts late, which means around midnight. Many visitors wonder where the revellers suddenly come from around 1.00 in the morning. Even when all of Kuta has been very quiet the whole evening, the 'in' places often become crowded after midnight.

Although the Balinese are not very tolerant towards homosexuality within their own culture, the tourist industry has helped to establish Bali as a gay-friendly destination, and gay travellers will encounter few problems on the island especially in the tourist areas around Kuta.

It is the atmosphere and the comedy acts that have made Hulu Café so successful. Guest stars are welcomed, and broad backed, white-skinned westerners, in laddered tights and sequined mini dresses entertain the audience with lampoonery and buffoonery, often using magnificent props depicting the tragic sinking of the Titanic or featuring a life-size 'Village People' puppet show performing the song "YMCA".

There are also some gay friendly places around this island such as La Lucciola Restaurant, Double Six Nightclub and Putra Bar in Ubud which presents live reggae music on weekends.

The Hard Rock Café, the Heaven, Costa Brava, California, Blackpool and Bondi are some of the popular night clubs, packed with revellers from around the world.

Bali is famous the world over for its vibrant performing art forms - gamelan and Balinese dance - learnt via an oral tradition passed on from generation to generation to this very day. According to the statistics from the Tourism Authority, there are perhaps more musicians and dancers per capita in Bali than in any other part of the world.

The Balinese have strong spiritual roots and despite the large influx of tourists over the years, their culture is still very much alive. Gods and spirits, dancers and myths have been an important part of Bali's daily life for hundreds of years. Gunung Agung - Bali's holy mountain - is internationally regarded as one of the eight 'Chakra' points of the world.

The main religion is Agama Hindu Dharma, which, although originally from India, comprises a unique blend of Hindu, Buddhist, Javanese and ancient indigenous beliefs; very different from the Hinduism practised in India today. The Balinese worship the Hindu trinity Brahma, Shiva and Vishnu, who are seen as manifestations of the Supreme God Sanghyang Widhi. Other Indian gods like Ganesh also appear, but more commonly, one will see shrines to the many gods and spirits that are uniquely Balinese.

Naturally creative, the Balinese have traditionally used their talents for religious purposes and most of the beautiful work to be seen here at every street corner has been inspired by stories from the Ramayana and other Hindu epics.

They believe that good spirits dwell in the mountains and that the seas are home to demons. Most villages have at least three main temples, namely: the Pura Puseh, or 'temple of origin', facing the mountains; Pura Desa, or village temple normally found in the centre; and the Pura Dalem, aligned with the sea and dedicated to the spirits of the dead. Aside from these 'village temples', almost every house has its own shrine. Some temples, for example, Pura Besakin on the slopes of Mount Agung, are considered especially important and people from all over Bali travel there to worship.

Sanath Weerasuriya travelled to Bali on a Singapore Airlines sponsored
media tour

(To be continued next week)


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