A valley so rich in history and culture

By Hiranthi Fernando

Ringed by majestic mountains, Kathmandu Valley is the very heart of Nepal. The valley is a storehouse of history, art and culture. A host of famous sites, royal palaces, ancient temples and shrines, both Buddhist and Hindu, golden pagodas, and other extraordinary architectural monuments are scattered throughout the valley. The awesome snow-capped Himalayan peaks can be seen from several mountains that surround the valley.

The Kathmandu Valley consists of three primary cities – Kathmandu itself, Patan and Bhaktapur. Seven UNESCO World Heritage sites are located within the valley. They include the three Durbar Squares of Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur, as well as the ancient Buddhist stupas of Swayambhunath, (known as the ‘Monkey Temple’) and Bodhnath as well as the Hindu temples of Pashupatinath and Changu Narayan.

Buddhist temple of Swayambhunath or Monkey Temple and right

Located on the trade route between India and Tibet, the Kathmandu Valley has long been a cultural and racial melting pot, with migrants coming in from east and west. The influx of Tibetan refugees has been particularly significant. The Newars are regarded as the original inhabitants of the Kathmandu Valley, but their origins are somewhat clouded. The valley’s extraordinary art and architecture reflects a unique Newari culture. Several small traditional Newari villages are also to be seen.

In the 17th century, the peak of the Newari golden age, the valley consisted of three rival city-states, which all profited by the transit trade. Many of the finest temples and palaces were built during the reign of the Malla kings, particularly in the 17th and 18th centuries, as each kingdom tried to outdo each other. The unification of Nepal in 1768 by Gorkha’s King Prithvi Narayan Shah marked the end of the fragmentation of the Kathmandu Valley. Nepali, spoken by the Khas of western Nepal replaced Newari as the language of administration.

Kathmandu, the capital and largest city of the Kingdom of Nepal, derives its name from ‘Kasthamandap’, meaning house of wood in Sanskrit. This imposing pagoda near Hanuman Dhoka Palace, was built in 1596 out of a single tree. The city boasts of a large collection of historical monuments and shrines. A visitor from the west once wrote that “there were as many temples as there were houses and as many idols as there were people.” It is impossible to see all the fascinating historical sites in a short time.

A monument at Patan’s Durbar Square

Kathmandu Durbar Square, also known as Hanuman Dhoka Palace Square lies in the heart of the old town. Named after a monkey god called Hanuman, a huge statue of Hanuman stands beside the golden gate of the palace. An ancient seat of the Nepalese royalty, the palace consists of a huge Royal Square and a number of temples dedicated to different Hindu gods and goddesses.

Located on a hillock, west of Kathmandu, the great Buddhist temple of Swayambhunath is a fascinating architectural edifice. A long flight of steps leads to the top of the hill where the venerated stupa stands. The site overlooks a magnificent view of Kathmandu Valley, with the panorama of the north eastern Himalayan range, in the distance.

Said to have been built around 250 BC, the temple is also popularly referred to as the Monkey Temple, after the large troupe of monkeys that frequent the hill. The white dome of the stupa, is surmounted by a tiered conical golden spire. On a square block underneath this towering structure, are a pair of all seeing eyes of the Buddha painted on all four sides of the stupa. Multi-coloured prayer flags are strung across from the pinnacle of the stupa. At the base of the stupa is a series of prayer wheels, which pilgrims spin as they pass. These prayer wheels are a common feature in Kathmandu.

The stupa stands on a typically stylized lotus mandala base, believed to have originated from a legendary lake of Kathmandu Valley.

Separated from Kathmandu by the Bagmati River, Patan is also known as Lalitpur, or the ‘City of Fine Arts’. It is the oldest and second largest town in the valley. The cradle of the valley’s arts and architecture, it is also a centre of the Newari religion, culture and traditional arts and crafts. Patan’s Durbar Square abounds in a large concentration of Hindu temples and Buddhist monuments with spectacular gateways and carvings. The ancient Royal Palace facing onto the Durbar Square, is one of the architectural highlights of the valley.

More than 55 major temples, numerous stupas and bahals or courtyards, are seen around the Durbar Square and the fascinating, narrow backstreets of Patan. Among the splendour of historic monuments, the hustle and bustle of daily life continues. Souvenir shops abound in trinkets, silk and Pashmina shawls in myriad fascinating colours, handmade leather goods, hand embroidered cushions and clothing, bead necklaces and many other items.

Patan has a Buddhist background and at the four corners of the city are stupas said to have been built by the great Buddhist emperor Ashok around 250 BC. The northern stupa, which we visited, is well preserved and white washed.

Located between the northern stupa and Durbar Square, the Golden Temple is another interesting site. The entrance to this Buddhist Monastery is guarded by two painted lions. The entrance to the inner courtyard is flanked by two stone elephants. Before entering the inner courtyard, leather shoes and other items must be removed. Slippers are provided for those who need to remove their footwear. In the centre of the courtyard is an ornately decorated temple with a golden roof. A stairway leads to an upper floor chapel, lined with frescoes, where devotees sit on cushions and meditate, Golden images of Lord Buddha and a large prayer wheel is seen on this floor.

Bhaktapur, the third major town of the valley, is the home of medieval art and architecture, pottery and weaving, rich local customs and culture, fast disappearing in many places. A city of farmers, Bhaktapur retains its rural character. It is the best preserved of the three cities in the valley, Free of traffic, this Newari town is also the most timeless. Walking through the cobblestone streets of Bhaktapur, with its temples, shrines, monuments, courtyards and water tanks is a pleasant experience.

The main Durbar Square of the city contains intricately carved temples and other architectural showpieces, set around the large square. Among the highlights is the Golden Gate, the entrance to the 55 Window Palace. The magnificent, richly carved Golden Gate is thought to be the most important piece of art in the valley. The 55 Window Palace is presently under renovation. The five-story pagoda, the Nayatapola Temple, standing on a five-storey terraced platform is another impressive structure.

Also located in the Durbar Square, the Bhaktapur National Art Gallery contains a fine collection of Buddhist and Hindu paintings, sculptures, metal, stone and wood carvings.

Visiting Nepal, one dreams of seeing the snow covered peaks of the mighty Himalayan mountains. Nagarkot is one of the best vantage points to view the peaks, within easy reach of Kathmandu. This little resort village, once an army camp, is located 32 km from Kathmandu, at an elevation of 2175m. It is a gentle climb up from Bhaktapur, through picturesque mountain terrain.

Seated on the terrace of a restaurant, on the highest point in the area, a panorama of mountains stretched before our eyes. We were fortunate that for a brief period of half an hour, the mist and clouds cleared to allow us a breathtaking view of the famed snow covered peaks of the Himalayas, including the familiar shape of Everest, almost merging with the clouds. It really made my day.