Discovering Bangkok

By Smriti Daniel

For me Bangkok will always be a city that hustles…night markets teeming with con artists and shoppers, crazy tuk-tuk drivers careening in and out of traffic, dancers overflowing out of pulsating nightclubs, hundreds of tiny food stalls offering alternately repulsive and delicious delicacies, hundreds of hedonists relaxing under the pummelling of hundreds of masseurs, traffic jams at 2 a.m. and the endless glimmer of lights on the surface of the Chao Phraya River.

All the shopping, eating and sightseeing (often accomplished simultaneously) can be quite exhausting, and so its good news that Bangkok is not all rush and crowds – and key to enjoying this city is leisurely exploring the dramatic contrasts between the ancient and the modern it offers. Bangkok boasts some of the world's most exquisite temples and palaces, but what is truly amazing is that you often find them sitting cheek by jowl alongside towering skyscrapers.

That having been said, Bangkok is not a city for the timid – you had best know exactly what you want, and how much you're willing to pay for it. The love for a good bout of bargaining seems to run in the blood of everyone in that country, and on the streets nothing has a fixed price. This is my survival guide to Bangkok… let's hope you'll have a chance to add to it soon.

Getting Around:
Step one: get yourself a map. Free maps of Bangkok are everywhere, but if you can find it, buy the Groovy Map for Bangkok. It's worth every baht of the 200 it will cost you (FYI– 1 baht is approximately 3.50 LKR). Taxi guys are pretty cheap really, compared to our own three wheelers, but traffic pile-ups can leave you stuck for hours. The Skytrain and Subway networks are really your best bet. With the subway, a 150 baht pass will allow you to travel as much as you want for a day…but if you're not keen on canvassing the entire city just buy a ticket to your chosen station.

A ride in a tuk-tuk may be utterly tempting – but don't step into one unless you know exactly how to get where you're going, and have decided on a price. The river is also a great way to move around and you can actually cut right across town by boat. You'll never be tempted to take a dip in the dirty water, but its fun and it's cheap.

If you're lost, you'll find many people who are genuinely friendly and helpful. You will be accosted however by the occasional tout. Firmly refuse any offers he or she makes to take you to a gem store, a tailor shop or a girlie show (most often in that order). Be warned that some of these offers can be pretty insistent. Case in point – we refuse to get into a taxi, and the taxi driver follows us down the street doing his best to change our minds. His final say – 'No, come this way! Don't go that way – there's a bomb!"

Where to stay:
There are quite possibly a million hotels of every size and description in Bangkok. Travel agents set up at the airport are actually quite good, and can find you something to fit your budget. If you're lucky they'll throw in a free city tour and breakfast. But before you get around to that, decide in which part of the city you want to stay. Free maps of Bangkok are available and you'll find about four major shopping areas clearly marked on them. It's not a bad idea to stay in one of these – not least because you need not stagger miles under the weight of your shopping bags. Plus food tends to be plentiful and affordable in such areas. We stayed on Petchburi road, close to Siam Square, in a comfortable joint.

Another tip: a hotel that is close to an MRT or Sky Train station will also make your life considerably easier. And a word to the wise – always, always ask for a better rate. Our respectable hotel for instance, like most others, was quite happy to drop their prices (by half!) after 10 minutes of bargaining directly with them on the phone. Skip on the buffet breakfasts and lunches – its boring – so you can simultaneously save and make the most of the gastronomic adventure that is Bangkok.

Where to Eat:
Food appears to be a national passion – and everywhere you look Bangkok offers you something to tempt your palate.

If you're the squeamish type, brace yourself for the occasional unpleasant offering. Silkworm larvae, maggot fry, octopus on skewers and clusters of cockroach were some of the meals we opted out of, but thankfully, there's a lot more that's a lot less icky on the menu. Apart from the occasional objectionable ingredient – Thai food can be delicious: As good eaten off a plastic table on the roadside, as in a posh restaurant by candlelight. Unsurprisingly, noodle dishes like Pad thai and Kluay Tiew are regional favourites, but so are Italian and Japanese dishes. If you're vegetarian, (god help you) you could let the cook know you're "taan jay" and ask them to put tofu (taow hoo) in your dishes instead. If you're looking for authentic Thai food and you can do without manic motor cyclists upsetting your plastic table, try 'Once Upon a Time,' ( 22528629) in Petchburi, Balee Laos (26631051) in Sukhumvit or Ana Garden (23911762) in Thong Lo.

Where to Shop:
When it comes to shopping, Bangkok can be incredibly overwhelming. The malls are massive – so large that you can easily get lost in them. Everywhere you turn, there another store selling clothes, shoes, belts, and assorted "traditional" items. While the big malls showcase all the great designer labels, every garment also comes with a price tag to match. If you're looking for cheap, try Pratunam Market where they specialise in wholesale prices. Once again: bargain, bargain, bargain. MBK Centre is marginally more expensive, but has plenty of cool stuff – including bags and shoes. Siam Square (not so cheap) has the more up market trendy stuff.

Night markets are quite popular – check out the Patpong night market and the Suan Lum Night Bazaar… and if you're a really devoted shopper, you might want to make your way down to Chatuchak Market.

What to do:
Bangkok has plenty to offer – it'll take you days. From the violent thai boxing matches to the serene river cruises, you can take your pick. My personal favourite was Wat Arun – the temple of the dawn. Go there by boat early in the evening and stick around to watch the sun set behind it. Also stop by Wat Po – the Temple of the reclining Buddha, the oldest, largest, and most active temple in Bangkok. And don't miss the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew. If you have plenty of time, take in the old capital of Ayuthaya and the Bang Pa – in Palace.

Bangkok is also home to Asia's largest Aquarium – Siam Ocean World. Strangely enough it’s located in the basement of one of their largest malls – Paragon. Its quite amazing really, especially if you haven't been to one before, but skip the glass bottom boat ride. Try catching a bout of Thai boxing for your quota of flying fists and bloody noses. If you're in more of a romantic mood, bring home a bunch of the famed orchids available at the night flower market in Pak Klong Thalat, open from 10 pm to 6 am. If all you want to do is relax – catch a movie, eat a massive meal and follow it up with a massage. The average price is about 200-250 Baht for an hour-long Thai massage. Completely relaxing and totally worth it.