Of moving plates and aftershocks

“There are 120 lights hidden in the garden. At night it’s like a fairy land.” Tony Edwards was describing one of the many charms of Nidahasa, the small but perfectly formed heritage home that he, a retired Air Lanka captain, and his associate G. Jayathilaka, have created near Wadduwa. It really is magical, a retreat of enchantment and whimsy that casts a spell on those lucky enough to stay there.

Although it is only an hour’s drive south of Colombo, Nidahasa is not a place you discover by chance, that’s part of what makes it so special. It keeps its secrets hidden and, anyway, there are only three suites for guests so it can never be crowded. Children, however, are welcome and it would be a wonderful place for a family and friends to share. And to have fun, too, but more about that later.

It’s not a place to drop into without a reservation, which preserves its seclusion for guests, although it is fully – and smartly – staffed. The adventure begins at the turn off inland from the Galle Road at Wajira Road, between the 33 and 34km posts. Then it’s a drive of about one kilometre down a steadily deteriorating country lane, avoiding all roads to left and right until the lane passes through paddy fields. It ascends a small hill and then there is a turning on the left at a corner marked by a house.The lane looks neat and well trimmed and leads to a large gate on the left. A smiling, uniformed security guard opens the gate, giving an instant impression of professionalism. This is no amateur hostelry although its exuberance of good taste and sheer verve in architecture and ambience reflects the obvious enjoyment that has gone into creating Nidahasa.

The courtyard is a carport with enough parking space for three or four cars. There is an entrance down a corridor to the suites, but there is a closed door in the wall that tantalises. Open it gently and journey’s end turns out to be a rural haven. The immediate view is of rolling lawns and, below the garden’s edge, paddy fields stretching into the distance. The only sound is bird song and gentle greetings by the young, sarong-clad staff.

The heart of Nidahasa is a converted cottage more than a century old that is the reception area with lounge and huge flat screen cable TV - and antique prints - on the walls. The fan is a genuine antique three-bladed affair, the underside of the roof shingles is visible through the beams, and there is an air of utter timelessness. In the suites, classical music wafts from screens where music DVDs play, for this is not a Spartan retreat but a joyful and friendly place to be. The sweet smell of smouldering incense perfumes every room.

Through the old window frames at one side of the cottage is a glimpse of shimmering, delectable blue: a bijou swimming pool with miniature handmade tiles in its own sun chamber. It could be from a painting by David Hockney although the figures gracing its walls are carvings from Indonesia.

The furniture in the rooms and public areas is chunky and a lot of it came from Indonesia too, while the masonry and carpentry is the work of dedicated local craftsmen. The architect was Vinod Jayasinghe. He has blended old style and new – and it works.

There are two large suites opening onto the garden, each with an open-roofed bathroom. The larger, master suite is at the other side of the cottage, with bedroom and bathroom both opening onto the garden vista. All the suites have top quality extras like slippers, robes and toiletries, and amusing knickknacks and intriguing works of art not normally found in a hotel guest room. Each room is named after the tree growing in its bathroom, thus there is Koboleela, Samanpitcha and Kiripalu (the master suite).

The garden view is of a sloping, well-mown lawn dotted with some intriguing trees, and unexpected features that are fun. There is a well bath complete with bucket but be careful when sitting on the stone seat, as the torrent from a waterfall can suddenly spout into action. Another stone seat in the garden is under a rain shower hidden high in a tree, so unsuspecting guests can be thoroughly drenched.

A long table seating 12 is for meals, mostly Sri Lankan style with local produce grown in the garden, and rice harvested from the nearby paddy fields. Another open-sided pavilion is for lounging and enjoying the scenery although most guests like the clay walled hut and rush mat bench for socialising at night. Not all is rustic; another cottage is a fully equipped gym with lots of gadgets, and a flat screen television too.

Breakfast, whether Sri Lankan or Western, is included in the room rate (which starts at US$100 per night for double occupancy). Other meals are served by request. The atmosphere is very much “please yourself” and guests can wander around where they like, even into the kitchen. The owners, who do not live on the property, let the staff take care of everything, so a stay at Nidahasa is as informal as being at home.

If only, guests might think, home were as inspiring, as elegant, and as spellbinding as Nidahasa. www.srilankaselect.com; reservations, telephone 0777 734 550.

Hidden secrets of luxury