Sri Lanka: A land like no other

“Actually, I’m Sri Lankan - It’s a small island right below India. That’s where cinnamon and M.I.A. are from. It’s a really nice place. You should visit if you get a chance”. Growing up brown in the U.S., you get used to answering a lot of questions about where you’re from. When I was a kid, this usually meant explaining that No, I don’t speak Spanish and No, not THAT kind of Indian, the OTHER kind of Indian to people who had little to no exposure to South Asia.  Things have gotten significantly better, thanks to folks like Priyanka Chopra and Mindy Kaling, but I still have to have my elevator pitch for Sri Lanka ready for whenever someone assumes I’m Indian and wants to start talking about palak paneer.

________________________________________________________________

By Arjuna Mahenthiran

“Actually, I’m Sri Lankan. It’s a small island right below India. That’s where cinnamon and M.I.A. are from. It’s a really nice place. You should visit if you get a chance”. Growing up brown in the U.S., you get used to answering a lot of questions about where you’re from. When I was a kid, this usually meant explaining that No, I don’t speak Spanish and No, not THAT kind of Indian, the OTHER kind of Indian to people who had little to no exposure to South Asia.  Things have gotten significantly better, thanks to folks like Priyanka Chopra and Mindy Kaling, but I still have to have my elevator pitch for Sri Lanka ready for whenever someone assumes I’m Indian and wants to start talking about palak paneer.

This was the life I was used to: constantly persuading people that Sri Lanka is a country distinct and unique enough to merit not being conflated with India. The issue was that my last visit to Sri Lanka was when I was eight years old, and my memories were limited to drinking orange juice by the pool and eating omelets at a breakfast bar. Instead of relying on things I had experienced for myself, I had to rely on what I learned from my family. I knew I liked fish curry and caramel pudding, but those were always made by my mom. I knew how to properly tie a sarong, but my dad was the only man I’d ever seen wear one. I had heard baila music before, but only when my uncles were just intoxicated enough at a family party to start raucously singing it.

That is, until a family trip this past July back to Sri Lanka, the first time in more than a decade and a half. When I initially found out we were going back to the motherland, I was more than just excited. Finally, I was going to see the fabled country that I had heard so much about and had so much connection to, but had no recollection of. Maybe now I could pad my elevator pitch with actual anecdotal evidence. Yet as the date of departure got closer, my excitement was gradually replaced with hesitation. What if my ideal of Sri Lanka is better than the reality of the country? What if there’s a reason we hadn’t been back in so long?

What more was there to learn about the nation I had memorized so many facts about?

In Colombo, I learned that you can be a world class city and yet retain your own distinct identity. Driving through Galle Face Road, you can’t help but be struck by the beauty of the grand white colonial-style buildings against the light blue of the Indian Ocean and the red-brown of the coast. Despite the expectation of heat given the country’s proximity to the equator, a cool breeze constantly drifts from the sea. You’d be hard pressed to find another place with such classic architecture on such a warm, affable beach. If you’re particularly lucky, you may even get to stay in this part of town and enjoy watching the sunset on the horizon while drinking a hot cup of tea.

Colombo is a city on the rise, both literally and figuratively. Not only is the true beauty of the city slowly starting to attract more visitors, but everywhere you go, you’ll notice new skyscrapers and high rises being built. Those who have travelled elsewhere in South Asia may also take notice of the city’s cleanliness and friendliness. This is not just a result of being the largest city in the country, but also the sense of dignity inherent within all Sri Lankans. Just as my family taught me, there is a strong notion that one’s behavior is indicative of one’s values and upbringing. As such, Sri Lankans treat their city of Colombo with a sense of pride, understanding that it is ultimately a reflection of themselves. And whether it’s in the lush, green Viharamahadevi Park or the rustic and spotless Dutch Hospital Shopping Precinct, this pride is on display for all to see.

For those who are unaware of what Sri Lankan food is like, I prefer to think of it as the logical conclusion of Sri Lankan history; that is, a perfect match of traditional and colonial, tropical and familiar, savory and sweet. Even more so than India, Sri Lankan cuisine is based around curries, which are paired with different preparations of rice. Leveraging its geography as an island nation, coconut is used in everything from the curries themselves to the sambol it is eaten with. Instead of chicken or pork, fish and mutton generally take the star role, as they are the meats most abundant on the island. At Raja Bojun in Colombo, this manifests itself in a spread that includes spicy fish curry, soft pittu, and an omelet curry that’s just the right combination of salty and tender. Hot and fresh rotis stuffed with various meats also feature prominently, and make a wonderful pair with whatever curry you’re eating. As for desserts, Upali’s handles them with finesse. Sri Lankan desserts are clear fusion of European cooking techniques with Sri Lankan ingredients, and as such, are distinct within the region. At Upali’s you can enjoy wattalappan, a soft cake made from jaggery, coconut milk, and nuts, that is just sweet enough, without being cloying. Or, you can try the cream caramel, also known as flan, which is almost delicate and light enough to rival that of my mother’s recipe. There really is nothing like that last spoonful, which always ends up being more caramel sauce than actual pudding. But regardless of what you dessert you choose, you’re surely in for a treat at Upali’s.

In Jaffna, I learned that when traditional culture meets modern life, something beautiful happens. Here, we stayed at The Thinnai, where the first thing you notice is the warm welcome you receive. From hot towels and glasses of refreshing watermelon juice, to the gorgeous imprint of bharatanatyam dancers on the outer wall, to the sweet smiles of the staff as they call you akka and anna, the hospitality I received at the Thinnai made me feel not like I was staying at a hotel in a foreign city, but rather at the house of a favorite aunty.

The most popular thing to do in the city seems to be visiting the Nallur Kandaswamy Temple, and for good reason. The Temple is grand, without being ostentatious. Unlike the large cathedrals and temples of other countries where throngs of tourists and the sounds of camera clicks drown out any opportunity for actual prayer, the Nallur Kandaswamy Temple’s role as a central house of worship in the city continues to this day. In particular, the murals on the wall depicting the various myths of the god Murugan serve as a means both for ardent devotees to pass on their heritage, as well as for those with little exposure to the faith to learn more about the particularities of Sri Lankan Tamil culture.

After a trip to the temple, there is nothing better than going to Rio Ice Cream, a bustling ice cream shop pretty close by. Jaffna may not be the first place you think of when you think of delicious, fresh ice cream, yet the treats at Rio will make you think again. Behind the cashiers you can see the workers through a glass window using nothing but the freshest fruit to create their ice cream flavors. I recommend getting the Rio special, which is a sundae of strawberry, mango, and pineapple flavors with nuts and jellies. As someone who always tends to choose chocolatey flavors, I was shocked to find that the ice cream was some of the best I had ever tasted, and lacked the artificial medicine-like taste that comes with fruity ice creams made abroad. Rio was so good that I went two days in a row, ordering the same combination both times.

As the northernmost tip of the island, Jaffna is home to some pretty spectacular ocean views. At Casuarina beach, the water is warm and clear, making it a great place for a family day. Alternatively, at Keerimalai, you can visit the Naguleswaram temple and plunge in the springs along with others who have made the pilgrimage. Just don’t forget to pick up some piping hot and crisp medhu vadai from the roadside cafe near the springs. Or you can even make a visit to Hammenhiel Fort, a former fort-turned-prison that sits on a small island off the coast of Karainagar. Those who are particularly adventurous may even want to try the true prisoner experience and stay at the small hotel on the island: while one option allows visitors to stay in former cells that have been updated into model hotel rooms, another option is to dress like prisoners and stay in a large room with others and little to no basic amenities (e.g. electricity).

Dinners were typically spent at the restaurant hotel, both out of convenience and preference. To be sure, every manner of Jaffna specialty can be found at The Thinnai’s restaurant, including the famous Jaffna crab curry, which is good enough to have you licking your fingers. Not to mention that the staff are incredibly service-oriented, accommodating my mother’s request every night to “Please just put an egg or two in the sothi, thambi” and offering every manner of alternative when my sister, who has a nut allergy, was turned off by the sight of cashews on her chocolate biscuit pudding. But if you do want to venture out into the city for a bite, then head to Mangos, where a perfectly cooked dosa and a thali of sides will prove to you that vegetarian food can be just as, if not more, satisfying than non-vegetarian food. You’ll find yourself trying to sop up every last bit of saambhar and chutney. And before you leave make sure to sip on a falooda, the rose-flavored drink that will surely cool you down from a hot Jaffna day.

In Sigiriya, I learned that Sri Lanka is a country of natural adventure. Climbing the Sigiriya rock is arguably the most popular tourist activity in the country. The rock, which served as a fortress and atop which sat a giant palace, may seem intimidating at first. Yet the journey up is made easier by the winds that grow increasingly cooler as you ascend. To be sure, scaling the rock is no small feat, yet it is one that I feel is doable by most. As you view ancient frescoes on your way up, you gain an appreciation for just how ancient the culture of the island is. And once you reach the top, the view is absolutely stunning: lush shades of green as far as the eye can see, interrupted only occasionally by the bright blue of lakes.

Despite the rock’s great height, the trip up and down Sigiriya will only take a few hours for most. This leaves plenty of time to visit Minneriya, a national park not too far away. Here, you can hire a jeep driver who will drive you through rough paths into the depths of the park, where you can get up close to elephants in their natural habitats as they eat grass and play in the lake. There really are few sights more heartwarming than that of a pack of elephants slowly prodding along, the smaller ones sticking closely to the elder ones. However, elephants are not the only animals that call this park home; large groups of monkeys can be seen darting through the forest, the babies clutching on to their mother’s stomachs. Peafowl are also a common site, as the peacocks show off their iridescent feathers in an attempt to win a mate. Even after you leave the park, you may be lucky enough to spot an elephant or two ambling along next to the road, at which point you’ll truly realize just how in tune with wildlife the country of Sri Lanka is.

In Nuwara Eliya, we stopped to smell the tea leaves. Sri Lanka is a country small enough that you can get anywhere within a day of driving, maximum. Given its size, you might expect some sort of uniformity of the topography; tall, leafy coconut trees and dirt roads throughout. However, the climate and environment of the innermost part of the country will have you wondering whether or not you’re still on a tropical island, or whether you’ve been transported to another region of the world altogether. The air is permanently misty and fresh, and the cooler temperature caused by the higher altitude will have you reaching for the sweater you brought just in case. The deep red earth and blue ocean of the coasts is replaced by deep green pine trees and gentle lakes. It is here in this region that the tea Sri Lanka is most famous for is cultivated.

While in Nuwara Eliya, you should make sure to get a tour of one of the many tea plantations to see for yourself the manufacturing process behind your favorite caffeinated beverage. After learning about just how exactly tea plants grow, and how their processing affects their flavor, you’ll certainly be allowed to sit down and enjoy a cup of your favorite kind, along with some snacks. At Damro Labookellie, this meant BOPF tea and lovely chocolate cake. It certainly makes for a pleasant rest stop as you wind up the hills of Nuwara Eliya.

In Nuwara Eliya we stayed at Heritance Tea Factory, a former colonial tea factory that has been converted into a hotel. The moment you enter the hotel, you are struck with just how much the hotel strives to preserve the history of the time period. Nestled in a landscape of what seems like endless rolling green tea fields, this hotel strives to provide a relaxing and unique stay in the Sri Lankan countryside while also educating visitors about its history as a tea plantation. From the moment you walk in, a series of well-placed black and white photos and informational write-ups recount the plantation’s former role as a base of tea production. And every evening, the large engine on the bottommost floor of the building starts turning, and guests are provided with an opportunity to not only experience the sights, but also the sounds, of the time period. The Heritance is not a large hotel, with only a few dozen rooms to its name. But the point of staying in such a cozy place is not for the endless stimulation and busy lifestyle you might find in other cities. Rather, a day spent well here is one that starts with fresh egg hoppers for breakfast, a peaceful mid-morning stroll through the cool mountain air, and may culminate in a delicious cup of tea on the patio with an amazing view.

Truly, central Sri Lanka has a variety of scenic landscapes and interesting wildlife. A great way to take this all in is by visiting Horton Plains, a large national park that features a walking trail at its center. Though the trail may only be a few miles, by the end of it, you will have traversed many of the different types of terrain commonly found in the area, from craggy rocky passes, to moist forests, to vast open plains. Along the way, there are a number of spots that serve as great places to catch your breath or take a photo, such as World’s End. Here from atop a cliff, you’ll find yourself with a view that extends for miles, and some say that on a clear day, you can even see out to the Indian Ocean. Baker’s Falls, which we could almost touch, was an added bonus on the hike through the plains.

The goal of my trip to Sri Lanka was to expand my understanding of why my parents consider it such a beautiful country. And while I now have a plethora of experiences that I can share with others, there is a sense of sadness that comes with leaving. My fear before arriving was that Sri Lanka would not live up to my expectations. And while it really was very different from what I thought, it actually ended up surpassing what I expected. So what now? All I can hope is that on my next visit, which must surely happen before another 15 years, Sri Lanka keeps showing me new ways of seeing my motherland.